Weatherproof Bed Project - DIY Writeup

[OxygenMask]

We are going on a 7000 mile road trip this summer and I needed the bed to be at least mostly dry, not the deluge it gets now under the tonneau. Most everyone knows of the issue.
I’m just about finished with weatherproofing my RR bed.
So for anyone who is thinking about undertaking this project, here’s a writeup of what I did.
Your mileage may vary.

Removing the bed rail caps was one of the most frustrating tasks I’ve done in years. First one took 2 ½ hours and I broke off a tab half broke another. Second one only took an hour and no breakage…

Remove the taillights to get started. (I hung my light with a small bungee rather than figure out the harness clips.) I used extra long needle nose both straight and curved, 90 degree picks, long ones, and pry tools, to unclip the clips from below and above once you can lift up the rail. The long angled pick was the most useful, I bought a set off Amazon for $10 just for this job. The rails can withstand a surprising amount of bending abuse but not the clips…

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[OxygenMask]

Then I took a 1” hole punch and punched out over 100 Coyote & Roadrunner manholes from auto graphic vinyl. Would have been great to color match, but black will do…

I counted 37 holes in each rail top, plus another 40 or so in the bed walls and front top rail. 118 in all!! I put all the backings in a cup when I peeled them, so the number is pretty accurate.

I capped them all. Some were larger so I just hand cut rectangles to fill them.

 

[OxygenMask]

I used black Eternabond tape for the big irregular holes. I made a paper pattern and used foam tape and eternabond to plug the large holes forward (the ones people shove tennis balls into…) I wish I could do something with the holes at the outside front corners by the cab, but I’d have to unbolt the bed to get room and that’s not gonna happen.

 

[OxygenMask]

I used some foam tape to close up gaps in the front corners, and I used butyl putty rope to fill in some gaps and seams especially at the front corners where the side rails don’t meet the front rail. Then I ran putty rope the length of the bed rails to make a dam so if water got in it had to run out.

 

[OxygenMask]

Next, put the “stake pocket” covers back in place, and press butyl putty into the gaps to seal them. Press well, use a tool to really get it in the gaps, you’ll see where it needs to be.

 

[OxygenMask]

Then I reinstalled the rail caps. I had to get them exactly right as set them because they won’t slide fwd and back after the putty touches down. So,just do one side at a time and you have the other side for reference. Then, sit on them! Start at the front and sit your butt on it, then move a few inches at a time to the rear. Do it 2 or 3 times. This presses all those little stiffeners into the putty and it needs to hit the deck or your rails won’t sit flat.

Now to tackle the tailgate, another of Ford’s better ideas…
https://www.ranger6g.com/forum/threads/waterproofing-the-tail-gate-–-writeup.28612/

I looked at all the “kits” mentioned on the forums, and kept thinking I should be able to come up with something better, better looking and a heck of a lot cheaper. So I did! I’ll do a separate thread for that.

 

[Chuck2001]

Pinned! I have this project on my list.

Thanks for sharing and taking the time to explain and show your process.

Really helpful

 

[Evilrider]

We are going on a 7000 mile road trip this summer and I needed the bed to be at least mostly dry, not the deluge it gets now under the tonneau. Most everyone knows of the issue.
I’m just about finished with weatherproofing my RR bed.
So for anyone who is thinking about undertaking this project, here’s a writeup of what I did.
Your mileage may vary.

Removing the bed rail caps was one of the most frustrating tasks I’ve done in years. First one took 2 ½ hours and I broke off a tab half broke another. Second one only took an hour and no breakage…

Remove the taillights to get started. (I hung my light with a small bungee rather than figure out the harness clips.) I used extra long needle nose both straight and curved, 90 degree picks, long ones, and pry tools, to unclip the clips from below and above once you can lift up the rail. The long angled pick was the most useful, I bought a set off Amazon for $10 just for this job. The rails can withstand a surprising amount of bending abuse but not the clips…

I took my 24 RP on a 7500 mile trip last year. Used totes for everything

Never waterproof anything had no problem
Only had a tonneau cover

 

[Sammy]

Awesome writeup!
I've done a 6800 mile and 7700 mile cross-country trip with my 24 Lariat. I used totes and also have a roll up Ford tonneau cover. Never had any issues with with excessive leakage to the bed or really any leakage into the bed even after heavy rain.
Good luck on your trip. These rangers do awesome on the highway just as well as off loading.

 

[Chuck2001]

Awesome writeup!
I've done a 6800 mile and 7700 mile cross-country trip with my 24 Lariat. I used totes and also have a roll up Ford tonneau cover. Never had any issues with with excessive leakage to the bed or really any leakage into the bed even after heavy rain.
Good luck on your trip. These rangers do awesome on the highway just as well as off loading.

I use a Vevor cargo bag when I have stuff that I need 100% dry.

Quite cheap, sturdy and zipped. Easy to access and it does almost the full bed size

 

[CoastieN70]

I just used Black Silicone on the stake pocket covers and installed weather stripping on my tailgate. Cut water intrusion by 90+ percent.
What little water that does make it in is negligible.

 

[some_guy]

great write up, saving this for when i have the time

 

[duhtroll]

I just got mine and installed the tonneau cover and tailgate seal which should be cured now.

When I get to this I will use HVAC silver tape for the rails as I used it for the front bed rail after I smoothed down the bed spray a bit.

Will try a few washes and rain storms first though to see how far I need to go.

 

[Chuck2001]

I just used Black Silicone on the stake pocket covers and installed weather stripping on my tailgate. Cut water intrusion by 90+ percent.
What little water that does make it in is negligible.

I was about to do this, only the holes on the top you mean? Or you remove the trim to close the whole on the metal sheets as well?

Where that 10% remaining comes from in your opinion?

 

[OxygenMask]

Oh yeah we plan to use totes. But road dust is also an issue so this should stop most of that.

We had a day of thunderstorms and heavy rain, so I went for drive on the highway. Only had 3 small drips, one is at the right front corner where the tonneau sits on the joint where the side rail meets the front rail seal (my fault,) the other two were both on top of the rails where the tonneau seal joint coincides with grooves molded in the rail. That was it! And I can probably address those easily.
The tailgate area was totally dry.

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