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SoCalMike

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Hmm the rattling or vibration isn't bad with the stock setup. If anything I thought the bass was too weak, which is why I opted for the sub upgrade. With the sub in, you do need to make some adjustments based on what type of music you are listening to. If I am listening to rap, I have the bass turned down quite a bit, or else its a bit much. If I am listening to rock, like tool or SOAD I have the bass up 3 bars. If its like classical music, it needs to be up quite a bit. However, I mainly just have the bass setting at a 0 and its a pretty good medium for all music type.

JL audio stealthbox:
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13694684/JL-Audio-Stealthbox.html

Kicker LOC:
https://soundsgoodstereo.com/produc...-o-including-unleashed-read-description-below

AMP AudioControl ACM 1.300
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_161ACM1300/AudioControl-ACM-1-300.html
Just to confirm, we want Round Subwoofer (B&O) and not the Oval B&O unleased, correct?

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SoCalMike

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I removed my door panels in the front and the loud vibration/rattling was coming from the aluminum window track. The solution was to glue a piece of foam behind it and problem solved.
 

dmonty

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Do you still have the factory sub connected?
 

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nate.co

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Thanks for this write up, ordered almost all the parts -- did you get the sub from Crutchfield? They show it on unknown length backorder :(
 
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Thanks for this write up, ordered almost all the parts -- did you get the sub from Crutchfield? They show it on unknown length backorder :(
Yes I ordered from Crutchfield and the sub came like 4 days later. It also said backordered when I ordered, but should be quick.
 

hand-filer

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Do you still have the factory sub connected?
Try disconnecting the factory sub and have a good listen. I disconnected mine and I find the system sounds better at anything beyond low volume levels.
The door speakers produce more bass than that 5.5'' speaker in a ukulele case looking enclosure they call a sub woofer FFS!
Once I complete my sub woofer upgrade, I'll remove the stock unit from the vehicle. IMHO it will just add distortion to the system.
I have the JL Audio stealth box & JD500/1 amp Stealthtech sub box, Hertz MPS 250 S2 sub and Hertz DP 1.500 mono amp on order
Unfortunately I won't be able to take advantage of the Black Friday sale price for the Kicker LOC as Canada Post is on strike right now. I can almost guarantee those F'ups will lose it in the system for several months once they settle.
 
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nate.co

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All the parts showed up! Just waiting for time with the installer in late January. The Stealthbox only took about a week to show up even with holidays etc, was worried they had parts on deep backorder or something.

Parts on hand:
- JL 10" Stealthbox
- JL JD500/1 amp and remote bass adjustment knob
- Kicker LOC
- Focal FORD IS 690 front replacements
- Focal FORD IS 165 rear replacements
- Midland MXT575 GMRS radio (installed a 3rd brake light antenna mount)
- Some Siless sound deadening material

I am really curious if I should just get rid of the stock sub and use that space for the amp and GMRS radio. Seems like a good option, I'd rather have all those bits on the back wall than under the passenger seat etc.
 
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Snkrjeff020

Snkrjeff020

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All the parts showed up! Just waiting for time with the installer in late January. The Stealthbox only took about a week to show up even with holidays etc, was worried they had parts on deep backorder or something.

Parts on hand:
- JL 10" Stealthbox
- JL JD500/1 amp and remote bass adjustment knob
- Kicker LOC
- Focal FORD IS 690 front replacements
- Focal FORD IS 165 rear replacements
- Midland MXT575 GMRS radio (installed a 3rd brake light antenna mount)
- Some Siless sound deadening material

I am really curious if I should just get rid of the stock sub and use that space for the amp and GMRS radio. Seems like a good option, I'd rather have all those bits on the back wall than under the passenger seat etc.
Yeah someone posted that they disconnected the stock sub, and got better sound. However, that's not how my installer did it, and thats why my amp went under my passenger seat, which is nice because I still have access to under seat bench storage on the other side.
 

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Kilobravo

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Yeah someone posted that they disconnected the stock sub, and got better sound. However, that's not how my installer did it, and thats why my amp went under my passenger seat, which is nice because I still have access to under seat bench storage on the other side.
Does installing the sub and amplifier void the warranty?
 
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Snkrjeff020

Snkrjeff020

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Does installing the sub and amplifier void the warranty?
If you are having electrical issues and your dealership is one that likes to dig deep they could blame it on installing an aftermarket stereo. However, in my opinion this type of scenario is very rare. Dealerships make a lot of money from warranty repair work so to report a voiding warranty, really does them a disservice.

With that said, if your stereo system is installed like crap and you have loose wires and terrible cable management, then it's more evidence against you.
 

Kilobravo

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If you are having electrical issues and your dealership is one that likes to dig deep they could blame it on installing an aftermarket stereo. However, in my opinion this type of scenario is very rare. Dealerships make a lot of money from warranty repair work so to report a voiding warranty, really does them a disservice.

With that said, if your stereo system is installed like crap and you have loose wires and terrible cable management, then it's more evidence against you.
Ok thanks
 

jorosz0309

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Any reason why most people are getting both the kicker keyloc as well as a separate amp? Kicker sells the key500.1 amp that has the LOC, DSP, AMP all in one. Maybe you needed a more powerful amp for your sub or already had an amp on hand? I'm going to pick up the $30 harness from Sounds Good Stereo and connect that directly to the Key500.1 amp. Or am I missing something? Thanks!!
 

nate.co

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Any reason why most people are getting both the kicker keyloc as well as a separate amp? Kicker sells the key500.1 amp that has the LOC, DSP, AMP all in one. Maybe you needed a more powerful amp for your sub or already had an amp on hand? I'm going to pick up the $30 harness from Sounds Good Stereo and connect that directly to the Key500.1 amp. Or am I missing something? Thanks!!
Main reason for me was that getting the KEYLOC from SGS, it came with the adapters and cables needed to just plug it into the existing system. It also had been trained on the B&O system so no setup other than plugging it in (and in my case turning down the output gain slightly).
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