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Ditto. This for the win. Bizarre that Ford didn't do a split seat. Would be great to customize the seat-vs-storage as life changes or need arise. Dang.
I wish for that as well, but the aftermarket is never going to support an additional single seat. The insurance alone would bankrupt any company not named Ford. Would be cool, though.
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I think a great option would be to remove the factory subwoofer and install an amp rack that ties in to the subwoofers mounting points
ha ha. I thought you might say that! ? I am going to figure out a way to make that happen for you.
 
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I'm interested in this for transporting dogs in kennels. A few opinions I have:

Needs secure tie down points on the panels.
Would prefer to retain the OEM subwoofer.
OEM jack location could stay there or move.

For me this would get swapped back and fourth between the seats and the seat delete for our longer road trips, so the less stuff that has to come out to get this in would be preferred for ease of installation.
 

Bushmechanic

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Alright, here's what the truck looks like without the seats installed. Pardon the dirt. This one gets beat on nearly every weekend. First impression, there is a ton of space back here without the seat. This will make for a really great storage area.

Ford Ranger - Rear Seat Delete-3.jpg
Ford Ranger - Rear Seat Delete-1.jpg
Ford Ranger - Rear Seat Delete-2.jpg


Here is where your opinion counts. We have some options to consider while designing this platform.

Would you rather keep the OEM jack in the OEM location or would you rather have the extra platform space and remove the jack?

Would you rather remove the subwoofer or work around it?


Another option would be for us to provide "patch panels" that take up the space for the jack and/or sub if you wanted to remove those (or didn't have the sub), but that will add to the cost. We probably wouldn't be able to make those components optional just due to the way they'll need to attach to the platform. They would just be included with the product and you could choose to use them or not.

What do you think?
A few more dollars for panels that allow the mounting of the jack in it's factory location or relocation of the jack is worth it. Different customers won't have to just "make things work".

Likewise, setups change. For now, I'd like the jack in the factory location but, later, I'll probably want to install a better jack somewhere else. Might even keep the factory jack there as a backup.

It's too versatile to ignore.

My main concern with the whole product is it's ability to withstand ratchet straps used properly on cargo track. I'd be massively interested in installing common cargo track, such as that offered by HiLift, which I use in my Land Rover.

Is the plate strong enough to retain, say, a refrigerator (could be a tool box, or anything else that's relatively large and heavy), in a collision or on higher speed washboard roads for hundreds of miles at a time? It's not just stuff in the bed I need to strap down.

The plate pictured is from my Land Rover. It's fitted with flanged threaded inserts to prevent pull-through; but the plywood itself is strong enough to stay dead flat when cranking down on jerry cans.

It recently withstood being nailed at near 60mph when not moving with a bit of medium mass cargo strapped down. Nothing happened back there. The vehicle was destroyed, but the cargo plate survived, and so did everything on it.
WP_20180911_16_12_55_Pro.jpg


That's what my plate looks like for versatile use anywhere in the world with any manner of cargo. The refrigerator mount was the weakest point, but it held through hell. I need something that can take the same kind of beating that thing did. The tracks were solid as a rock on the plywood.

I see you offer numerous threaded holes, and have mentioned they line up with common track hardware spacing. When one doesn't use track, is he meant to thread tie-downs into those locations?
 

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Oh, one more thing: No rattles.

Please, among all the possible options for production, consider the method that doesn't involve rattles, even if it's an otherwise inferior solution. Rattles for hundreds of miles are infuriating. ?
 

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Would you rather keep the OEM jack in the OEM location or would you rather have the extra platform space and remove the jack?
OEM position

Would you rather remove the subwoofer or work around it?
Keep the subwoofer.

Not doing these two steps affects the resale value! I agree with BushMechanic - the tie downs need to be able to keep a 40+ pound object in place in a severe collision or rollover with it secured by ratchet straps (NOT bungees, no no!).

John Davies
Spokane WA USA
 

huskyfargo

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I’d like to keep the jack and the subwoofer where they are.
 
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I'm interested in this for transporting dogs in kennels. A few opinions I have:

Needs secure tie down points on the panels.
Would prefer to retain the OEM subwoofer.
OEM jack location could stay there or move.

For me this would get swapped back and fourth between the seats and the seat delete for our longer road trips, so the less stuff that has to come out to get this in would be preferred for ease of installation.
Easy enough! I am working on the floor panels now. There are substantial tie down points. It is working out really well. We can also build specific "rails" that could locate the kennels and you could use the tie downs to just hold them vertically. Anything is possible once we know the constraints.
 
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A few more dollars for panels that allow the mounting of the jack in it's factory location or relocation of the jack is worth it. Different customers won't have to just "make things work".

Likewise, setups change. For now, I'd like the jack in the factory location but, later, I'll probably want to install a better jack somewhere else. Might even keep the factory jack there as a backup.

It's too versatile to ignore.

My main concern with the whole product is it's ability to withstand ratchet straps used properly on cargo track. I'd be massively interested in installing common cargo track, such as that offered by HiLift, which I use in my Land Rover.

Is the plate strong enough to retain, say, a refrigerator (could be a tool box, or anything else that's relatively large and heavy), in a collision or on higher speed washboard roads for hundreds of miles at a time? It's not just stuff in the bed I need to strap down.

The plate pictured is from my Land Rover. It's fitted with flanged threaded inserts to prevent pull-through; but the plywood itself is strong enough to stay dead flat when cranking down on jerry cans.

It recently withstood being nailed at near 60mph when not moving with a bit of medium mass cargo strapped down. Nothing happened back there. The vehicle was destroyed, but the cargo plate survived, and so did everything on it.
WP_20180911_16_12_55_Pro.jpg


That's what my plate looks like for versatile use anywhere in the world with any manner of cargo. The refrigerator mount was the weakest point, but it held through hell. I need something that can take the same kind of beating that thing did. The tracks were solid as a rock on the plywood.

I see you offer numerous threaded holes, and have mentioned they line up with common track hardware spacing. When one doesn't use track, is he meant to thread tie-downs into those locations?
Rest assured our system, that bolts into factory holes, is made out of metal, and designed with intention throughout, will be sturdy enough to hold the expected gear. The photos below are of a very nice Jeep Wrangler 392 that rolled 7 times on the freeway near our shop. It had our cargo system in the rear (same design as we are doing for the Ranger). It had a full 55L Dometic fridge bolted to one of the slides. It survived all of this carnage and we have the slide and fridge sitting in the shop now. I am not knocking home built solutions, but there is an obvious structural difference between plywood and engineered/formed/laser cut steel and aluminum.

As for the holes we build into the design. Those are meant for attaching things. That could even be additional mounting backets or L-track extrusion. Our pattern is implemented in 1" increments to make it as standard as possible. I'll share more of the grid layout later this evening. I just cut the first iteration of the support rails. After those are finalized, we'll move on to the platform and the attachment pattern will evolve from that.

We also sell these little guys. They "bolt" into the platform using a thumb screw for quick and easy removal. https://americanadventurelab.com/product/bungee-cord-loops/

vlcsnap-2025-07-08-14h37m01s421.jpg
vlcsnap-2025-07-08-14h38m20s371.jpg
vlcsnap-2025-07-08-14h37m43s668.jpg
 

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Oh, one more thing: No rattles.

Please, among all the possible options for production, consider the method that doesn't involve rattles, even if it's an otherwise inferior solution. Rattles for hundreds of miles are infuriating. ?
There won't be any moving pieces, so not much of a rattle situation. We will also offer Mil-Spec lining on the main panels that is great for sound deadening.
 

Bushmechanic

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Rest assured our system, that bolts into factory holes, is made out of metal, and designed with intention throughout, will be sturdy enough to hold the expected gear. The photos below are of a very nice Jeep Wrangler 392 that rolled 7 times on the freeway near our shop. It had our cargo system in the rear (same design as we are doing for the Ranger). It had a full 55L Dometic fridge bolted to one of the slides. It survived all of this carnage and we have the slide and fridge sitting in the shop now. I am not knocking home built solutions, but there is an obvious structural difference between plywood and engineered/formed/laser cut steel and aluminum.

As for the holes we build into the design. Those are meant for attaching things. That could even be additional mounting backets or L-track extrusion. Our pattern is implemented in 1" increments to make it as standard as possible. I'll share more of the grid layout later this evening. I just cut the first iteration of the support rails. After those are finalized, we'll move on to the platform and the attachment pattern will evolve from that.

We also sell these little guys. They "bolt" into the platform using a thumb screw for quick and easy removal. https://americanadventurelab.com/product/bungee-cord-loops/

vlcsnap-2025-07-08-14h37m01s421.jpg
vlcsnap-2025-07-08-14h38m20s371.jpg
vlcsnap-2025-07-08-14h37m43s668.jpg
Terrible that happened, but that's exactly what I needed to see: Some manner of visible test of attachment, durability, and cargo retention. Given that's an absolute worst case scenario, I would certainly imagine the product will be sufficiently built.

My concerns came not from a material standpoint, so much as what I've seen done with that material in the past. I've seen cargo solutions that bend under stress many times, or feature weaker areas in logical retention locations.

As for mine, the original plate was actually 1/2" thick HDPE, but that, while in many ways better than what I ended up with, turned out to be annoying. The plywood was only in when the trim was. Quite often, it was a tin can back there; no trim or carpet at all. I had a U shaped tubular cargo cage with a spot for a sub reserved back there at one point, but ended up selling it.

I'm glad you're making this. I'm not a fan of rear seats taking up room in a vehicle.
 

Bushmechanic

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There won't be any moving pieces, so not much of a rattle situation. We will also offer Mil-Spec lining on the main panels that is great for sound deadening.
Oh that would be neat. I've found the vehicle very quiet, compared to what I'm used to, but it would be interesting if it were even quieter.
 
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Oh that would be neat. I've found the vehicle very quiet, compared to what I'm used to, but it would be interesting if it were even quieter.
Agreed! Coming from the Jeep world, this thing is whisper quiet! ? I don't want to change that either. It's soo solid, it won't be an issue, especially with the Mil-Spec option.
 
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Well, today went REALLY well. I usually don't put too much detail in my fist iteration parts with the expectation of replacing them quickly. However, these all fit perfect the first time! Now, I wish I had put the threaded holes in them to mount the plates and attachment holes. ? Either way, I'll get this finished up tomorrow.

I couldn't be happier with the design. I don't usually have such a firm structure to work off of below the seats. The small cubbies that Ford builds into the body have substantial sheet metal surrounding those. I was able to leverage that existing part of the truck to make the rails super strong, light weight (relatively) and we won't require a forward support reaching down to the floor. I can literally sit on these rails, one at a time. That's substantially stronger than I expected from this design. Very pleased!!! It is also going to install and remove quickly. I have three parts that will get installed into the floor that will stay in after the platform is removed. Those will drastically speed up the install/remove time for subsequent installs.

Tomorrow, I'll add the top plate, attachment points, and start the back wall cover. Moving quickly now!

Ford Ranger - Rear Seat Delete-4.jpg
Ford Ranger - Rear Seat Delete-5.jpg
Ford Ranger - Rear Seat Delete-6.webp
Ford Ranger - Rear Seat Delete-7.webp
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