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2024 Ranger Raptor Engine compartment accessory fuse box issue

MAMAI

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Hey folks, my 2024 Ranger Raptor broke down in the middle of nowhere. All sensors started firing off, the windows stopped working and stayed open, and the seats and mirrors went into dumb mode. The parking brakes locked up too — I had to remove them just to get home and take the truck to the dealership.

When I checked under the hood later, I found the plastic harness and the 125A fuse (connecting the engine compartment accessory fuse box to the battery positive terminal) were cracked. The dealership says this isn’t covered under warranty and wants to charge me an outrageous amount for repairs.

Do we have any Ford reps here who can confirm if this should be covered under warranty?
Location: Toronto, Canada.

Ford Ranger 2024 Ranger Raptor Engine compartment accessory fuse box issue IMG_7714 2


Ford Ranger 2024 Ranger Raptor Engine compartment accessory fuse box issue IMG_6130 2


Ford Ranger 2024 Ranger Raptor Engine compartment accessory fuse box issue IMG_6131 2


Ford Ranger 2024 Ranger Raptor Engine compartment accessory fuse box issue Screenshot 2025-07-31 at 12.16.46 AM
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joprato

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Not a Ford rep myself by any means, but I Had something similar happening to me, my mechanic accidentally broke that exact same piece and the fuse with it while juggling things around the engine bay. He replaced it at no cost to me though.
on another similar note, the cover of my accessory fuse box (item “I” on the diagram above, as pointed by the red arrow) has flown out while driving and when I asked the dealership they wanted to charge for the whole fuse box… cover the thing with plastic bubble wrap and secured it with plastic strap for now, until I manage to find the right cover. Have ordered a few so far but they’re all either too small or too big… can’t seem to find the right part number.

hope you can get it repaired under warranty !
 

gmarcucio

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As long as there is no evidence of that circuit being tampered with such as adding acessories or being taken apart by you I would think it would definately be under warranty. Possibly vibration causing it to crack? Smart that you posted it here and maybe post it on some of the FB forums to see if it's a common issue to back up your claim if they give you trouble covering it.
 

sweeks888

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I thought all Ford vehicles came with a "bumper to bumper" warranty, for the most part?

From Google... " Yes, a new Ford vehicle comes with a New Vehicle Limited Warranty, often referred to as a bumper-to-bumper warranty, for 3 years or 36,000 miles, whichever comes first. This warranty covers most components of the vehicle against defects in materials or workmanship originating at the factory".
 

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MAMAI

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Outcome: CAMVAP ruled in consumer’s favour. Warranty repair ordered.

TL;DR:
Ford Canada denied warranty on an engine-bay fuse box failure. I escalated it through CAMVAP, stayed strictly factual, and Ford ultimately lost. The arbitrator ruled it was a warrantable defect, ordered Ford to restore the vehicle to factory condition, and reimburse part of the repair costs. Posting details below on what actually worked, what didn’t, and how to avoid shooting yourself in the foot if you hit the same issue.


Update – case resolved (Canada / CAMVAP)

Quick update for anyone following this or dealing with the same issue in Canada.

Short version:
Ford Canada ultimately lost at CAMVAP. The failure was ruled a warrantable defect, and Ford was ordered to repair the vehicle back to factory condition and reimburse part of the costs.


Below is what actually made the difference.

What I did that worked
  1. Stopped arguing with the dealer
    • Once warranty was denied, I didn’t keep fighting at the service counter.
    • Everything moved to writing.
  2. Documented the timeline
    • Exact sequence of events: warning messages → immobilization → dealer diagnosis → warranty denial.
    • Mileage, dates, invoices, screenshots.
  3. Separated facts from opinions
    • I avoided “they think” or “I believe.”
    • Only: what failed, when, and what Ford/dealer did next.
  4. Used CAMVAP properly
    • Filed a clean claim focused on:
      • defect existed before any owner action
      • no evidence that my actions caused the failure
    • Let the arbitrator connect the dots.
  5. Let Ford explain themselves
    • Their position shifted multiple times.
    • Inconsistencies mattered more than my arguments.
Current status
  • CAMVAP ruled:
    • the vehicle had a warrantable electrical defect
    • warranty denial was not justified
  • Ford was ordered to:
    • replace the affected fuse holder / battery-related components
    • restore factory condition
    • reimburse part of the repair cost
  • Case is now in the implementation phase with Ford Canada.

No buyback, but the core issue is formally acknowledged and corrected.

If you have a similar issue with Ford Canada – DO this

✔ Keep everything in writing
✔ Save invoices, photos, and fault descriptions
✔ Stick to facts and sequence, not theories
✔ Escalate early if warranty is denied
✔ Use CAMVAP if you’re in Canada — it actually works when the case is clean

What NOT to do

✘ Don’t authorize permanent modifications just to “get it back on the road”
✘ Don’t rely on verbal explanations from the dealer
✘ Don’t assume Ford’s first answer is final
✘ Don’t mix unrelated complaints into one claim

That last one is big — narrow claims win.

Templates & docs

I ended up building a few reusable templates during this process:
  • timeline summary
  • cost breakdown
  • escalation letter
  • CAMVAP-ready claim structure
If anyone needs them, happy to share — just reply or DM.

Hopefully this helps the next person dealing with the same fuse box mess.
 

waffleso_0

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Outcome: CAMVAP ruled in consumer’s favour. Warranty repair ordered.

TL;DR:
Ford Canada denied warranty on an engine-bay fuse box failure. I escalated it through CAMVAP, stayed strictly factual, and Ford ultimately lost. The arbitrator ruled it was a warrantable defect, ordered Ford to restore the vehicle to factory condition, and reimburse part of the repair costs. Posting details below on what actually worked, what didn’t, and how to avoid shooting yourself in the foot if you hit the same issue.


Update – case resolved (Canada / CAMVAP)

Quick update for anyone following this or dealing with the same issue in Canada.

Short version:
Ford Canada ultimately lost at CAMVAP. The failure was ruled a warrantable defect, and Ford was ordered to repair the vehicle back to factory condition and reimburse part of the costs.


Below is what actually made the difference.

What I did that worked
  1. Stopped arguing with the dealer
    • Once warranty was denied, I didn’t keep fighting at the service counter.
    • Everything moved to writing.
  2. Documented the timeline
    • Exact sequence of events: warning messages → immobilization → dealer diagnosis → warranty denial.
    • Mileage, dates, invoices, screenshots.
  3. Separated facts from opinions
    • I avoided “they think” or “I believe.”
    • Only: what failed, when, and what Ford/dealer did next.
  4. Used CAMVAP properly
    • Filed a clean claim focused on:
      • defect existed before any owner action
      • no evidence that my actions caused the failure
    • Let the arbitrator connect the dots.
  5. Let Ford explain themselves
    • Their position shifted multiple times.
    • Inconsistencies mattered more than my arguments.
Current status
  • CAMVAP ruled:
    • the vehicle had a warrantable electrical defect
    • warranty denial was not justified
  • Ford was ordered to:
    • replace the affected fuse holder / battery-related components
    • restore factory condition
    • reimburse part of the repair cost
  • Case is now in the implementation phase with Ford Canada.

No buyback, but the core issue is formally acknowledged and corrected.

If you have a similar issue with Ford Canada – DO this

✔ Keep everything in writing
✔ Save invoices, photos, and fault descriptions
✔ Stick to facts and sequence, not theories
✔ Escalate early if warranty is denied
✔ Use CAMVAP if you’re in Canada — it actually works when the case is clean

What NOT to do

✘ Don’t authorize permanent modifications just to “get it back on the road”
✘ Don’t rely on verbal explanations from the dealer
✘ Don’t assume Ford’s first answer is final
✘ Don’t mix unrelated complaints into one claim

That last one is big — narrow claims win.

Templates & docs

I ended up building a few reusable templates during this process:
  • timeline summary
  • cost breakdown
  • escalation letter
  • CAMVAP-ready claim structure
If anyone needs them, happy to share — just reply or DM.

Hopefully this helps the next person dealing with the same fuse box mess.
great job and write up. I'm still shocked the said it was not under warranty. So that piece that cracked caused all the issues to the truck? Can you elaborate why all the sensors went crazy if a fuse blew?
 
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MAMAI

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great job and write up. I'm still shocked the said it was not under warranty. So that piece that cracked caused all the issues to the truck? Can you elaborate why all the sensors went crazy if a fuse blew?
Thanks, waffleso_0, appreciate it.

Short answer: yes, that failed fuse / fuse-holder assembly was the trigger, and modern trucks really don’t tolerate unstable power.


Longer explanation:

That fuse isn’t just protecting one accessory. It’s part of the primary power distribution path feeding multiple modules. When the fusible link failed and the holder cracked, it caused intermittent voltage drops, not a clean on/off failure.

Modern vehicles don’t see that as “a fuse blew.” They see:
  • voltage out of range
  • modules dropping offline
  • CAN messages timing out
So each module starts protecting itself:
  • parking brake locks as a safety default
  • charging system throws faults
  • multiple sensors report nonsense because their reference voltage isn’t stable
  • the truck essentially says “something is very wrong” and goes into limp / immobilized mode
That’s why it looks like everything failed at once, even though the root cause was electrical.

The arbitrator actually called this out: a fusible link is designed to fail under fault conditions, and there was no evidence anything I did caused the crack or failure afterward. Once power integrity was compromised, the cascade was expected behavior.

That’s also why guessing “it must be the battery” or “owner caused damage” doesn’t hold up when you look at how these systems are designed.

Hope that helps
 

Flak

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