3D Printing new Subwoofer Box for Kicker Shallow Comp Sub

[clarke]

I am not super happy with the built in subwoofer, especially after replacing all the other speakers with aftermarket Kicker speakers. The upgraded 6x9 and 6.25" speakers really filled out the sound in the cabin, but the bottom feels empty with the stock "subwoofer". I don't need booming bass, so the intention is just to add fill out the missing range at the bottom.

I may be crazy, and please tell me if I am, but I plan on removing the current stock B&O subwoofer "box" and designing a replacement I can 3D print out of ABS-GF plastic. I have a 3D scanner, so I am going to try and design one that will fit in the same area and use the same mounting points and have the optimal volume according to the which sub I intend to use. I am considering either the Kicker 48CWRT67 or a Kicker 48CWRT8, in 4ohm, using the stock amp.

I have been googling and searching through the forums and have not been able to find some info I need however and am hoping someone on the forums has the answer.

-Should I design a sealed or ported box?
-What wattage does the B&O amp provide to the stock subwoofer?
-What ohm rating is the stock dual voice coil subwoofer?
-Does anyone have any suggestions on how I should wire either of the Kicker subs I am considering?
-Of the two options I am looking at, should I do the 6.75" or 8"?
-Can anyone confirm that this AI provided info is correct?

Sponsored

 

[pablo94sc]

My stereo installer used to do SPL (bass) competitions, and won quite a few. I say that to emphasize this point - even he suggested buying an underseat sub box instead of trying to custom fab one. Unless this is a project you want to do for fun, and if you just only want to fill out the low end, order the loaded Skar sub, an amp, and a LOC, and be done with it.

 

[CACTUSGREYFX4]

My stereo installer used to do SPL (bass) competitions, and won quite a few. I say that to emphasize this point - even he suggested buying an underseat sub box instead of trying to custom fab one. Unless this is a project you want to do for fun, and if you just only want to fill out the low end, order the loaded Skar sub, an amp, and a LOC, and be done with it.

I use to do that when I was younger, went to all the competition think my best was 138dbl. Now I can't hear $hit. Being in Military with all those loud vehicles probably didn't help either.

 

[clarke]

My stereo installer used to do SPL (bass) competitions, and won quite a few. I say that to emphasize this point - even he suggested buying an underseat sub box instead of trying to custom fab one. Unless this is a project you want to do for fun, and if you just only want to fill out the low end, order the loaded Skar sub, an amp, and a LOC, and be done with it.

I am mostly looking for better coverage on the bottom end and to fill out what is missing, without having to run a separate power cable to the back and such. If the two channels are not enough to drive the 6.75 kicker well enough, I'll probably end up having to get the single channel 500W Kicker Keylock with built in DSP and would move up to the 8" at that point. Definitely also doing it as a fun project since I have really gotten into CAD, 3D scanning, and printing with engineering filaments.

I hope that if this ends up working well enough off of the stock connections, I can release the 3D print file for the custom enclosure with instructions on how to hook it up correctly for other people who have the same requirement I do.

 

[pablo94sc]

Then definitely go for it. That's going to be a tough challenge, and I'm definitely interested in seeing what you come up with.

 

[clarke]

Then definitely go for it. That's going to be a tough challenge, and I'm definitely interested in seeing what you come up with.

I'm hoping that the roll off that Ford has included in the existing DSP isn't too pronounce after switching out the sub. It'll probably be a good idea to print an adapter ring to use with the new sub on the existing box just to see if it is even worth pursuing a one for one swap out.

 

[pablo94sc]

I'm hoping that the roll off that Ford has included in the existing DSP isn't too pronounce after switching out the sub. It'll probably be a good idea to print an adapter ring to use with the new sub on the existing box just to see if it is even worth pursuing a one for one swap out.

I believe it's volume limiting above 14. I've had it unplugged for over a year now.

 

[clarke]

I believe it's volume limiting above 14. I've had it unplugged for over a year now.

Dang, I tend to play it at around 17-19. Hopefully it won't be too bad.

 

[clarke]

Just got the new sub! Weather permitting I'll build a test box for it this weekend and see how it sounds with the stock amp.

 

[ummagawd]

following...

I too thought about this. There's a YouTube hexibase that I follow that sold me on the idea that you can make almost any decent sub sound amazing with the right enclosure. I'd send you a link but I'm currently mobile, but I encourage you to search his videos and look for the ones where he makes a 3" sub shake his vehicle using a 6th or 7th order bandpass box that he designed and 3d printed.

My problem is I simply don't have the knowledge (I do have a printer).

 

[stemplar]

I am not super happy with the built in subwoofer, especially after replacing all the other speakers with aftermarket Kicker speakers. The upgraded 6x9 and 6.25" speakers really filled out the sound in the cabin, but the bottom feels empty with the stock "subwoofer". I don't need booming bass, so the intention is just to add fill out the missing range at the bottom.

I may be crazy, and please tell me if I am, but I plan on removing the current stock B&O subwoofer "box" and designing a replacement I can 3D print out of ABS-GF plastic. I have a 3D scanner, so I am going to try and design one that will fit in the same area and use the same mounting points and have the optimal volume according to the which sub I intend to use. I am considering either the Kicker 48CWRT67 or a Kicker 48CWRT8, in 4ohm, using the stock amp.

I have been googling and searching through the forums and have not been able to find some info I need however and am hoping someone on the forums has the answer.

-Should I design a sealed or ported box?
-What wattage does the B&O amp provide to the stock subwoofer?
-What ohm rating is the stock dual voice coil subwoofer?
-Does anyone have any suggestions on how I should wire either of the Kicker subs I am considering?
-Of the two options I am looking at, should I do the 6.75" or 8"?
-Can anyone confirm that this AI provided info is correct?

I know everyone will tell you to put one under the seat and all that goes with it (loc, etc) but I do hope you find a solution to improve upon the factory sub WITHOUT using the underseat storage. There isn’t much storage space for things like tie-downs, work gloves, tools, etc and I will never give up what little storage we now have. I’ll also never stop wanting to balance the bass a bit better with my focals, so I wish you luck. I hope you find a good way to improve the factory sub AND I selfishly hope it’s easily repeatable

Sponsored