Sounds like a solid plan!
The smaller the enclosure, the worse its going to sound, but I did the Memphis Nano behind the rear seat and it helped a lot to supplement the OEM system's low end. It just barely fits back there and allows you to still use the under seat storage.
How did you mount it and connect it? Was it hard? It looks like the nano110p is out of stock on memphis audio, and permanently gone from crutchfield and others, BUT, there's a nano10spx that appears to have the same size and specifications, but is IP66-rated for weather exposure (in broncos or jeeps and the like). Specific details aside, this does look like something I'd want since I want an improvement without making any concessions on space or useability.
If you search my posts, I have a long post about the install. Connecting it took a while, but it wasn't overly difficult. Just a matter of running and concealing the wires and tapping the speaker wires for input. Mine actually isn't mounted, but its so snug behind the seat there probably wouldn't be room for a mount and it is not vibrating or moving. I actually need to slam the seat pretty hard to get it to lock because the fit is so tight. Nothing bigger would fit.
Watch out, you seem to be on the same slippery slope I was on - started with Cento, then thought Cento pro, then Mille pro, lol, actually ended with Mille Legend (MLK 165.3) with Mille pro rear. Good luck!
First off, I have to thank nate.co and his excellent thread Mega audio upgrade -- sound deadening, speakers, stealthbox sub, GMRS radio for guidance. The information was invaluable and a major time saver.
I went with the following components:
Hertz MPS 250 S2 shallow subwoofer
Hertz DIECI POWER DP 1.500 Mono Class-D Amplifier
Stealthtech Sub Enclosure
Kicker Keylok & Harness
I used 6061 T6 Aluminum 2'' x 1/8'' Flat Bar for the mounting brackets.
Tools used to fabricate the brackets:
-hack-saw
-assorted hand files
-1/2" disk sander
-6" bench vise
The factory sub is a 5 1/2" driver in a tuned wave enclosure. It operates in a very narrow frequency range. It sounds hideous and does more harm than good if you leave it connected.
My advice to anyone contemplating a similar upgrade is to shit can it and utilize the space to mount your amp.
I too had to reduce the gain on the KeyLok as it is pre-set way too high.
Overall I'm very happy with the outcome. I didn't bother upgrading the rest of the speakers. They sound pretty good once you remove the factory sub and add a real one.
Here are some images of what I concocted for bracketry and the end results:
How did you mount mount the sub to the box? Did you put screw inserts or just screwed right into the box?First off, I have to thank nate.co and his excellent thread Mega audio upgrade -- sound deadening, speakers, stealthbox sub, GMRS radio for guidance. The information was invaluable and a major time saver.
I went with the following components:
Hertz MPS 250 S2 shallow subwoofer
Hertz DIECI POWER DP 1.500 Mono Class-D Amplifier
Stealthtech Sub Enclosure
Kicker Keylok & Harness
I used 6061 T6 Aluminum 2'' x 1/8'' Flat Bar for the mounting brackets.
Tools used to fabricate the brackets:
-hack-saw
-assorted hand files
-1/2" disk sander
-6" bench vise
The factory sub is a 5 1/2" driver in a tuned wave enclosure. It operates in a very narrow frequency range. It sounds hideous and does more harm than good if you leave it connected.
My advice to anyone contemplating a similar upgrade is to shit can it and utilize the space to mount your amp.
I too had to reduce the gain on the KeyLok as it is pre-set way too high.
Overall I'm very happy with the outcome. I didn't bother upgrading the rest of the speakers. They sound pretty good once you remove the factory sub and add a real one.
Here are some images of what I concocted for bracketry and the end results:
For my install I screwed the sub directly into the meat of the sub box itself. No nut-zerts or inserts were needed for the Hertz 10” in the StealthTech box. Just don’t over tighten or go full ham with an impact or screw gun.
#10’s or 12’s. Can’t quite remember, but I do remember they were the bigger 3/8” head versus the regular smaller 5/16”. I predrilled and used 2” long Tek’s. The area I have them located is the only area where the flange has open tub underneath.
