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Diode Dynamics Hitch Receiver Light

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John B

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Bringing this thread back from the dead ?

Finally got the RR up on the dealer's lift for an oil change, and my friend/tech showed me how to unclip the trailer plug in unit and push it out of the bumper, allowing easy access to the wiring plug so the pigtail could be installed. Took it home and finished the install. I had already removed the plastic tab on the plug for the wires so it fit thru the back hole in the hitch receiver. It all works just fine, with no hyperflash ( my unit is the plain jane without connection to the brake lights). Everything seems well constructed, so I am pleased with this purchase. I dropped the spare for easier access and aired up the spare while it was right in front of me .. Lol. The hardest part of dropping the spare was figuring out how to remove the bumper plug. Had to use pliers to yank it out once it was turned to the unlock position. I also used a 1/2 drive with a 12 point spline/square socket to drop and raise the tire. Made it a ton faster and easier. Thanks to all of you that got this system figured out. Warning to all yet to install, there is almost no room between the spare and the wires/plugs. Whatever you do to secure the wiring will not look pretty.
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smokinjoe64

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Really, then how come it hasn’t since it’s been installed? Functions just like it’s suppose to, actually better than expected.

Oh almost forgot, no trailer function either. ???
Easy hook up but you need to cut off the two small tabs on the receiver plug with side cutters, to get it thru the hole at the back of the hitch receiver. You also need more than the two small wire ties provided, to properly tie up the wiring harness.

Spare tire must come down to gain access to the rear of the receiver hitch. Doesn’t have to be removed, it just rests on the ground. Good time to check the spare tire pressure as well.

I lifted everything above the OEM plug and secured it to one of the metal tabs where bumper recess, plastic cover attached to. To properly secure the wiring harness it needs 5 medium length wire ties minimum. If it’s not properly secured, it will come in direct contact with the spare.

It’s quite bright and at night lights up the back of the RR. The one I purchased supplies; running, brake, reverse light, functions.

I also opted to cut out the tabs and utilized my lockable receiver pin. This is an install option. Without the lockable receiver pin, anyone can easily remove the light from the receiver hitch and separate it from the wiring harness. I used a Drexel tool with a sanding thimble and a cut off tool. Made a clean job of it. Pin fits nice and snug no rattling or noise.

Does not trigger the trailer function for the RR. With the inline wiring harness, you still retain complete use of the 7 pin plug for trailering, as pictured below. Just remove the light and slide the connector into the receiver hitch. There is a rubber cover for the connector provided. ???
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@RANGER/HOBB many thanks for your comprehensive ' illustrated & proven' posts. :clap: :like:

A perfect example of Community value by sharing, providing factual data/info vs posted naysayer claims.

Eliminated my RR concerns regarding both functions and potential workarounds.
I'm convinced, comfortable so much so...Ordered DD kit along with Ford Acc locking hitch pin today.

BTW...lighting kit still functioning as advertised?
 

smokinjoe64

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Welp Gents, my experience with DD hitch light kit [C1R+brake] is completely Unsat ? :
  1. Plethora of continual errors/faults upon start up and during drive along with disabling of multiple safety features
  2. Brake strobe feature inop
  3. DD T-tap harness 'workaround' a non-solution for RR
  4. DD tech support call => DD knows kit is error prone, unreliable & problematic for RR based on call
    • No DD RR solutions forthcoming; "not a priority" for RR G6
No clear reasons provided by DD for why seemingly kit works for some RRs while many others unsuccessful.
Definitely not recommended; YMMV
 

cboggs

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Finally had a chance to try again. I added the external power wire and connected it to Aux3. I tested power to the wire using a multi-meter.

Unfortunately, I still get a "Cross-Traffic Alert deactivated, Trailer attached" warning at start up and then a "Rear Parking Sensors deactivated" warning when putting the truck in reverse.

Any ideas on what I could be missing?
Did you ever figure out how to get rid of those notifications?
 

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Midlifec

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Did anyone notice the announcement from Diode Dynamics hitch mount working with the 4 pin connector? The Ranger is apparently supported now.
 

porgey

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just asking after all this wire hooking up up ...does it override the engine stop at lights?? i added a bar light under tailgate...just got T harness and put into trailer harness and behold my shutdown goes inop by itself???
 

ShadowDragon24

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Did anyone notice the announcement from Diode Dynamics hitch mount working with the 4 pin connector? The Ranger is apparently supported now.
before I found the body builder guide(upfitter guide) I was getting the trailer light errors. but then I found the upfitter guide where ut states to tap the wire at the bcm and run it back, I was getting a cap installed, so I tapped the 3rd brake wire from the bcm. ran a wire back to trailer plug, where the dd harness was, and I cut the left and right stop/turn wires off the dd traiker harness, and put them on the bcm wire, functions perfectly. the trailer harness still gives me my marker, and ground, and reverse.

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