So for the factory painted parts, I only scuffed with 1000 grit. However, for the chrome parts, I scuffed with 400 then smoothed them out with 1000 as they were noticeably harder and the 1000 wasn't doing much. Of course I clean with mineral spirits prior to scuffing then rubbing alcohol after scuffing then a wipe down with a dry microfiber. All parts received three coats of Duplicolor Plastic Adhesion Promoter. Then four top coats on all parts (Krylon fusion gloss and matte black) and three coats of high gloss clear on the gloss parts.What did you do to prep the emblems? Never had luck painting the chrome on plastics
I went with 17” as it seems to be somewhat universally used for off-road setups and gives a little more side wall than 18” wheels I had on stock. On the bracket, no the grill doesn’t have to come off, only the cowl on the support beam.Nice looking truck, very similar to mine. I have 18" wheels, did you go to 17" for that tire specifically? I would like a slightly larger tire with more aggressive tread when these wear out. Thanks for the FabFour ACC bracket info - did the grille have to come off? It was a pain when I installed the LED bar in the lower opening, only broke one tab.
Thanks for the kind words! I’m using a Trigger 4 Plus. It’s a wireless system that prevents you from having to run any wires into the cab. It’s available from a number of places so I won’t link it, just search for it and find the best price.Wow, @HoosierT , I love your build! Keep up the good work. I'm getting my Yakima Outpost rack on Monday and will start to address the lighting situation on my Ranger after installing it. Could you please show me the location and make and model of the light switches you said you mounted on the shifter tray? I've gone back and for on several locations and brands of switch boxes/panels and could use your advice on same.
Thanks in advance.
Hey Andy, I'm sorry that I totally forgot to do this for you. I'll grab you measurements when I get home from work today. I'll also grab some pics for you so you can get a better idea for where you're going to have clearance issues.If you could that would be awesome! So the only place of concern is the fender lining? Do you have good clearance in full lock on the frame?
Hi Tyler,Finally got the rack painted and put on. Only slightly intimidating drilling six holes through my bed rails but it’s done.
Hi Phil,Hi Tyler,
Did you back up the bolts on the underside with anything larger than a lock washer? If so, please consider using a fender washer of good thickness.. This backs up the attachment and spreads the load on the box rail over a larger area of the sheetmetal.
I was directed to support the SEMA show in Las Vegas in 2001...I had funded a landspeed record attempt in a Ranger at Bonnieville Salt Flats and the company, Spall Electronics, the SEMA vendor broke the Pickup record at over 203 mph in a Ford Ranger.
Now, I am not a fan of Las Vegas, but an assignment is an assignment. There was my little Ranger, the record holder, for which I was very proud. The head of the organization of the Ford Booth came to me to report to a particular booth as the SEMA participants were unhappy with the Ranger. They has a fab company that made a ladder rack that bolted to the bed rails on the Ranger and they were complaining that this L shaped single side rail ladder holder broke around the attachment to the bed rail. So I went over there...the owners were less than polite to me as they demanded the pick up box be made of thicker sheet metal. So I looked at their design and felt under the box rail on their display Ranger and found only a nut and lock washer. I asked them if they considered backing up the lock washer and nut with a plate...They looked like a deer starring into headlights. By the time I was through discussing their poor design, they were humbled and discussing how to resolve...I suggest simple fender washers as a start and maybe simple plate of about 1/8" thickness. I told them to keep me in the loop, but I never heard from them again...
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired
Yes I did use a fender washer underneath. I used the largest diameter that would fit in the ~1” space. That is only temporary as I actually plan to use some aluminum bar in its place in the near future. I’ll likely use a 3” long section for each bolt so that I have a full 3 sq in of load distribution for each bolt which matches the 3” width on the aluminum tubing that makes up the rack itself.
Hi Tyler,It’s dark but I grabbed a pic of both the top and bottom. You’ll see that if I use a bar and drill my own holes off center, I can actually go a tad wider than what the washers allowed.