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Wes Siler

Wes Siler

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I'm looking forward hearing about this Baja trip!
We'll be down there for a little over a month, getting married, then camping on the way there and back with the dogs for our honeymoon. I'll be doing a bunch of travel stories and gear reviews from the road. You can follow along on Outside, but my Instagram is probably the best place to get live updates.
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That Front Runner water tank is *exactly* what I've been looking for! It took me a while to see it until I realized it is thin and vertical. Thanks for pointing that out!

Q: Do you also charge the PLB40 from the truck, or just the solar?

Couple pics for you guys:



 
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Q: Do you also charge the PLB40 from the truck, or just the solar?
Just the solar. I tend to leave the truck parked with the need to keep the freezer going for long periods (hunting). If you drive once ever couple of days, then you'll be fine just running the PLB40 off vehicle power.
 

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Just the solar. I tend to leave the truck parked with the need to keep the freezer going for long periods (hunting). If you drive once ever couple of days, then you'll be fine just running the PLB40 off vehicle power.
Hi Wes,
One more question, I like the water tank, but before committing ~$250, I'm curious, do you have any issues with such a thin tank freezing up overnight, especially this early in the season?
 

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Hi Wes,
One more question, I like the water tank, but before committing ~$250, I'm curious, do you have any issues with such a thin tank freezing up overnight, especially this early in the season?
It definitely freezes up in below freezing temps. So far, no damage though. And it's sat outside half full for several days in the single digits.
 

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Thanks. Sounds good. My plan is to use it as a thin extra water tank between the camper and the bulkhead, and transfer water from it to a different tank that is in a more freezing-resistant location, so I can wait for it to un-freeze during the day as long as it doesn't get damaged.
 

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Great video, thanks! While we love our FWC, I also want to have a lighter setup at some point and that looks pretty decent.

One comment on the light bars - After doing some looking around, I found that Diode Dynamics makes a series of light bars with different available beam patterns, and one of the beam patterns meets US DOT requirements for auxiliary high beams, so are technically legal on-highway. The details of that might vary from state to state if some states have stricter requirements than the US DOT. I haven't pulled the trigger yet on those, but probably will. Maybe it's not as much of an issue on the Lariat, but we have an XLT and have replaced both high and low beams with LED retrofits, which are a lot better than the OEM halogens, but would still like to have a bit more on-highway high-beam capbility.

Second question, did you modify the rear suspension? Air bags or anything? Or is the rig light enough that there's no real need?
 
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Great video, thanks! While we love our FWC, I also want to have a lighter setup at some point and that looks pretty decent.

One comment on the light bars - After doing some looking around, I found that Diode Dynamics makes a series of light bars with different available beam patterns, and one of the beam patterns meets US DOT requirements for auxiliary high beams, so are technically legal on-highway. The details of that might vary from state to state if some states have stricter requirements than the US DOT. I haven't pulled the trigger yet on those, but probably will. Maybe it's not as much of an issue on the Lariat, but we have an XLT and have replaced both high and low beams with LED retrofits, which are a lot better than the OEM halogens, but would still like to have a bit more on-highway high-beam capbility.

Second question, did you modify the rear suspension? Air bags or anything? Or is the rig light enough that there's no real need?
DOT compliant lights aren't worth the money. Just be responsible running off-road lighting.

Suspension is Icon Stage 2, so rear is only shocks. It needs new rear springs, and they're coming out with those late this spring. Their advice wasn't to space the rear up before then as it'd cost me travel.
 

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I agree, they are more expensive, and maybe not worth it. The main reason I'm considering them is that I would like to slave them to the main high beams (yep, totally out of laziness), so they turn on and off automatically with the high beams. In that case I would need them to be DOT compliant. It's a decision based on whether that convenience is worth the extra cost and I haven't quite made that decision and pulled the trigger yet. I'm not planning as many as you have, so the cost hit wouldn't be quite as bad.

Air bags are definitely an inconvenience and do reduce travel (fairly significantly) if installed according to the manufacturer's instructions. They were the quickest solution to getting up and running with the FWC (~1000 lb. dry weight), but I'll look into those springs when they are available. They are probably a better long term option.

In case anyone does have a potential interest in air bags, it is possible, in ways that void the warranty, to mount them so that you sacrifice far less travel. Here's a good thread on it. Both the OP and I came up with slightly different approaches: https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/thre...r-5000-series-kits-for-2019-ford-ranger.3721/
 
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I wouldn't wire a light bar up to the auto headlamps. That much light flicking on and off all the time would be...a lot. And you're totally going to run into issues with cops in CA, even if your lights are DOT compliant. Just get a good quality light bar, wire up a switch, and call it a day. No need to complicate things so much.
 

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I agree, they are more expensive, and maybe not worth it. The main reason I'm considering them is that I would like to slave them to the main high beams (yep, totally out of laziness), so they turn on and off automatically with the high beams. In that case I would need them to be DOT compliant. It's a decision based on whether that convenience is worth the extra cost and I haven't quite made that decision and pulled the trigger yet. I'm not planning as many as you have, so the cost hit wouldn't be quite as bad.

Air bags are definitely an inconvenience and do reduce travel (fairly significantly) if installed according to the manufacturer's instructions. They were the quickest solution to getting up and running with the FWC (~1000 lb. dry weight), but I'll look into those springs when they are available. They are probably a better long term option.

In case anyone does have a potential interest in air bags, it is possible, in ways that void the warranty, to mount them so that you sacrifice far less travel. Here's a good thread on it. Both the OP and I came up with slightly different approaches: https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/thre...r-5000-series-kits-for-2019-ford-ranger.3721/
I wired the switch for my driving lights to only be hot with the high beams.

Switch off, lights off
Switch on, lights on with high beams

Makes turning them all off a one-switch deal when someone pops up in the middle of nowhere.
 

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I wouldn't wire a light bar up to the auto headlamps. That much light flicking on and off all the time would be...a lot. And you're totally going to run into issues with cops in CA, even if your lights are DOT compliant. Just get a good quality light bar, wire up a switch, and call it a day. No need to complicate things so much.
I wired the switch for my driving lights to only be hot with the high beams.
Switch off, lights off
Switch on, lights on with high beams
Makes turning them all off a one-switch deal when someone pops up in the middle of nowhere.
I agree there could be a problem with cops, I had thought of that too. Even if they're DOT compliant and technically legal, cops won't know that just by looking. And then I'd be stuck getting pulled over for no reason and pulling out owners manuals and documentation.

I like the idea of a master switch for the slaved operation. I might even add a second switch for full manual control. It's definitely more complicated, but the bit of extra wiring would provide all options and also let me go with the less expensive lights.

Thanks for all the tips.
 
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mw301

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I wired the switch for my driving lights to only be hot with the high beams.

Switch off, lights off
Switch on, lights on with high beams

Makes turning them all off a one-switch deal when someone pops up in the middle of nowhere.
How did you do the wiring? I would love to use the Stedi or Lightforce Ford Ranger passthrough headlight wiring connectors, which would have a wire to use as a trigger for a relay, but based on what I have read so far they do not work with the North American Rangers. Any tips you have would be much appreciated.
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