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Sound deadening behind rear seats.

fordgt

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Has anyone done it yet? I have done my doors, want to do the area behind the seat next. Is there a removal video around? Or can you walk me through the steps please?
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GLW

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I did it on my RR. Lots of cutting small pieces to fit. Not hard just time consuming. I did not remove the back seat nor the safety belts, just worked around them. Having good lighting helps.
it was worth the effort.
I would like to do the roof but don’t have the guts to remove the headliner.
 

KayaPayaPigDog

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now that you mention it, i think i need to get back into the sound deadening and do the back wall before it gets too hot and miserable to work. I'll probably order the material today and do this over the weekend and i'll make a quick video on how to access everything. Cheers.
 

pablo94sc

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Has anyone done it yet? I have done my doors, want to do the area behind the seat next. Is there a removal video around? Or can you walk me through the steps please?
I have, and it took me almost a much time to do as all four doors. I don't have time for a full write-up now, so consider this the condensed version.

1. Fold seat down and disconnect all wires from their harnesses, then lift the bottom and unhook this harnesses.

2. Unbolt the seat belt buckles (x2, T50 bolts).

3. Unbolt the 4, T50 bolts for the seat.

4. Slip the buckles out from between the cushions. There is an elastic loop that they slip through. Remove the seat from the cab. I recommend a strap to keep the seat folded together and a helper here.

5. Remove the amp and sub. (8 and 10mm) Throw the factory sub in the trash or attic. You will hear the mud it makes much more clearly once you deaden the rear. It's in the pic below because I just tested it today.

6. Pop the cap off the top of the center belt. Pry the belt cover off. Unbolt the belt retractor.

7. Remove the top panel under the window from the top, down. There are two lips on the bottom corners (for alignment) that will prevent bottom removal first.

8. Removal all the push pins. Take a break, go to the store and buy longer ones. You'll need them to reinstall. Good time to make sure you have sharp shears and extra blades for your knife. I used 5, but that's because I hate getting blades out of the home depot 50-pack dispenser pack I got.

9. Curse the day you decided to do this.

10. Unbolt outside rear belts from the side of the floor tub. Let those hang.

11. Pull up the floor trim under the door seal, working up to the side of the cab.

12. Pull the push pins in the carpet. Unbolt the DS tub. Set those aside.

13. Slice the crap out of your fingers because, " Oh, this is easier than the doors" and you stop being cautious.

14. Install your deadening.

I added 1/2" 3M thinsulate to my rear card. See attached. It will help absorb high freq and add some extra insulation.

Seat won't go back in until I can install 1/2" fiber mat under the carpet and I determine if relocation brackets can be made.

Ford Ranger Sound deadening behind rear seats. 20250512_153011


Ford Ranger Sound deadening behind rear seats. 20250512_153029


Ford Ranger Sound deadening behind rear seats. 20250515_142409


Ford Ranger Sound deadening behind rear seats. 20250515_142702


Ford Ranger Sound deadening behind rear seats. 20250515_142523


Ford Ranger Sound deadening behind rear seats. 20250507_173141


Ford Ranger Sound deadening behind rear seats. 20250515_174848
 
Last edited:

pablo94sc

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now that you mention it, i think i need to get back into the sound deadening and do the back wall before it gets too hot and miserable to work. I'll probably order the material today and do this over the weekend and i'll make a quick video on how to access everything. Cheers.
Get longer push pins! Order yourself some 3M AU4002-5 for the door cards and rear card. If you're going to do it, you might as well go full tilt! You'll thank me for the extra insulation when your wife kicks you out of the house for all the time and money you've put into the raptor. 😆
 

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fordgt

fordgt

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I have, and it took me almost a much time to do as all four doors. I don't have time for a full write-up now, so consider this the condensed version.

1. Fold seat down and disconnect all wires from their harnesses, then lift the bottom and unhook this harnesses.

2. Unbolt the seat belt buckles (x2, T50 bolts).

3. Unbolt the 4, T50 bolts for the seat.

4. Slip the buckles out from between the cushions. There is an elastic loop that they slip through. Remove the seat from the cab. I recommend a strap to keep the seat folded together and a helper here.

5. Remove the amp and sub. (8 and 10mm) Throw the factory sub in the trash or attic. You will hear the mud it makes much more clearly once you deaden the rear. It's in the pic below because I just tested it today.

6. Pop the cap off the top of the center belt. Pry the belt cover off. Unbolt the belt retractor.

7. Remove the top panel under the window from the top, down. There are two lips on the bottom corners (for alignment) that will prevent bottom removal first.

8. Removal all the push pins. Take a break, go to the store and buy longer ones. You'll need them to reinstall. Good time to make sure you have sharp shears and extra blades for your knife. I used 5, but that's because I hate getting blades out of the home depot 50-pack dispenser pack I got.

9. Curse the day you decided to do this.

10. Unbolt outside rear belts from the side of the floor tub. Let those hang.

11. Pull up the floor trim under the door seal, working up to the side of the cab.

12. Pull the push pins in the carpet. Unbolt the DS tub. Set those aside.

13. Slice the crap out of your fingers because, " Oh, this is easier than the doors" and you stop being cautious.

14. Install your deadening.

I added 1/2" 3M thinsulate to my rear card. See attached. It will help absorb high freq and add some extra insulation.

Seat won't go back in until I can install 1/2" fiber mat under the carpet and I determine if relocation brackets can be made.

20250512_153011.jpg


20250512_153029.jpg


20250515_142409.jpg


20250515_142702.jpg


20250515_142523.jpg


20250507_173141.jpg


20250515_174848.jpg
Wow, thank you!
 

pablo94sc

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Sure thing. I actually like helping people when it's not my job. Lol

Oh, I wanted to mention you can put deadener on the PS black panel. I put it in the outside. It's not going to do much, but why the heck not?

Also, now is a good time to fill the nooks and crannies with some sort of fiber or insulation for absorption.
 

KayaPayaPigDog

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I have, and it took me almost a much time to do as all four doors. I don't have time for a full write-up now, so consider this the condensed version.

1. Fold seat down and disconnect all wires from their harnesses, then lift the bottom and unhook this harnesses.

2. Unbolt the seat belt buckles (x2, T50 bolts).

3. Unbolt the 4, T50 bolts for the seat.

4. Slip the buckles out from between the cushions. There is an elastic loop that they slip through. Remove the seat from the cab. I recommend a strap to keep the seat folded together and a helper here.

5. Remove the amp and sub. (8 and 10mm) Throw the factory sub in the trash or attic. You will hear the mud it makes much more clearly once you deaden the rear. It's in the pic below because I just tested it today.

6. Pop the cap off the top of the center belt. Pry the belt cover off. Unbolt the belt retractor.

7. Remove the top panel under the window from the top, down. There are two lips on the bottom corners (for alignment) that will prevent bottom removal first.

8. Removal all the push pins. Take a break, go to the store and buy longer ones. You'll need them to reinstall. Good time to make sure you have sharp shears and extra blades for your knife. I used 5, but that's because I hate getting blades out of the home depot 50-pack dispenser pack I got.

9. Curse the day you decided to do this.

10. Unbolt outside rear belts from the side of the floor tub. Let those hang.

11. Pull up the floor trim under the door seal, working up to the side of the cab.

12. Pull the push pins in the carpet. Unbolt the DS tub. Set those aside.

13. Slice the crap out of your fingers because, " Oh, this is easier than the doors" and you stop being cautious.

14. Install your deadening.

I added 1/2" 3M thinsulate to my rear card. See attached. It will help absorb high freq and add some extra insulation.

Seat won't go back in until I can install 1/2" fiber mat under the carpet and I determine if relocation brackets can be made.

20250512_153011.jpg


20250512_153029.jpg


20250515_142409.jpg


20250515_142702.jpg


20250515_142523.jpg


20250507_173141.jpg


20250515_174848.jpg
Dude! You went all in! Thanks for the photos and info! I’m gonna do this for sure in the next few weeks!
 

pablo94sc

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Dude! You went all in! Thanks for the photos and info! I’m gonna do this for sure in the next few weeks!
Thanks. I might be tackling the rest of the cab next week, which will entail the roof (eek) and hanging insulation in the door cards. And properly fixing whatever is rattling in the DS door. Pretty sure it's the rearward window channel. That might be a warranty repair. Ugh
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