STX build - sanity check

[Jayson182]

Hi everyone,
I’m finalizing my build plan for my 2024 Ranger STX 4x4 2.3. I bought the STX before I found out I really enjoy exploring the back country.
The goal is a capable "Service Road Explorer" that handles washboards, random unknown condition spur roads, PNW mud and light snow, and more confidence on the occasional washout \ technical bits but still daily drives comfortably. All without my wife killing me over the price...

I’d love a sanity check on my outline before I move forward.

The Build Plan:

1. Wheels & Tires: 16" Bronco Base Steelies with LT255/85R16 Falken Wildpeak A/T4W (Load Range C). Going for the tall/skinny "pizza cutter" setup for off-road comfort and slush traction. I air down pretty much every time i'm on dirt. These tires as they should be good for the rain on road.
2. Suspension: Eibach Pro-Truck Stage 2 set to ~1.5" lift. I still want a little rake as I occasionally tow a boat and motorcycle and will get a canopy and maybe RTT later. These seem to be a good budget option with adjustable level.
3. Rear Support: RoadActive Suspension (RAS) – Standard Duty. Maybe heavy duty? Also thinking something like the sumosprings but want to minimize the bounce off-road. Might not get this right away.
4. Armor: Keeping a stock FX4 steel engine skid i found; adding aluminum plates for the transmission/transfer case to save weight.

Load Items: Yamaha TW200 on a hitch carrier, approx 5klbs boat a few times in the summer.
Future Load: Planning to add a SmartCap + RTT down the road. RTT would only be on when planning on using.

Questions for the Group:

1. Bronco Steelies Fitment: Can anyone 100% confirm the 16" Bronco steelies clear the STX brakes? Also, is the offset definitely +55mm (same as stock), or will I need spacers? I've seen them on some builds, so pretty confident they fit.
2. RAS Sizing: With a hitch-mounted dirt bike (~340 lbs tongue weight) plus a future SmartCap/RTT, should I stick with the Standard Duty RAS, or jump to the Heavy Duty? I don't want a harsh unloaded ride, but I don't want to sag later.
3. Tire Rub: With the 1.5" front level and skinny 33s (255/85/16), I assume i'll need to remove the crash bars, right? But no trimming? Anyone have luck with high clearance crash bars? I haven't found any.

Anything else i'm missing? I think this will be a pretty good all around setup for more off-road fun without ruining the on-road experience.

Thanks for the help!

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[John E Davies]

No personal experience, but this is important to research.

“RoadActive Suspension kit specs are based off of stock vehicles, without any aftermarket suspension modifications. From a fitment standpoint, RAS generally fits lifted trucks without an issue. An issue may arise if the lift block is fabricated in an odd shape that interferes with our axle connecting brackets, or if it's a complete suspension swap. Before ordering a RAS for your lifted or leveled truck, be sure to check your suspension to look for possible issues as described. If there appears to be an issue as described in either one of these two instances, email us at sales@activesuspension for assistance and further instruction. RAS® can have great benefit on lifted trucks from functionality standpoint, greatly reducing squat caused by towing, significantly improving stability, excessive bounce and any axle wrap/wheel hop.”

If my truck had leaf springs, I sure would be thinking about the the RAS kit. One thing I don’t understand, is it user adjustable for the load, or do you set the rod to a certain spec and leave it alone?

John Davies
Spokane WA USA

 

[daytoncarter]

RoadActive is like a second spring, essentially you're increasing the spring rate without more dampening so that'll give you more unwanted bounce,

If you're worried about ride height then helper air bags are your best bet. Nice smooth ride when you want it and more support when you need it.

 

[Arsenall11]

I would look around for the 17” take offs they are dirt cheap! I finnaly peddled my beadlocks for $400.00. Not sure how close the calipers would be be on 16”.

 

[Jayson182]

Beadlocks for 400?? Yeah I'll keep a look out for that!

I'll do a bit more research of the RAS. Hope to buy once and not regret it.

Appreciate the responses!

 

[Ron Quixote]

If you plan some off-roading and some towing, it's hard to beat a set of Timbren bumpstops in the rear. Relatively affordable, straightforward to install (usually), and zero maintenance/almost zero chance of failure. They really smooth out load handling and off-road compressions.

 

[Arsenall11]

Beadlocks for 400?? Yeah I'll keep a look out for that!

I'll do a bit more research of the RAS. Hope to buy once and not regret it.

Appreciate the responses!

Oh shit, you are in Tacoma, I’m 35 miles away and just sold the beadlocks last Monday to a guy from Oregon.

 

[Jayson182]

Oh shit, you are in Tacoma, I’m 35 miles away and just sold the beadlocks last Monday to a guy from Oregon.

Dammit!

 

[John E Davies]

Come buy mine, it will make a fun day trip for you….

https://spokane.craigslist.org/wto/d/spokane-ranger-bronco-beadlock-capable/7890681548.html

As a forum member I will knock an extra $50 off my asking price. Alternatively, I will be in Redmond WA next Monday mid-afternoon, and could bring them and meet you close to there if you are serious about buying. They will be boxed and out of the weather. I will be staying that night and then returning home the next morning…. Message me if interested!

John Davies
Spokane WA USA

 

[03GeeTee]

I've been considering going that same route with some 16" steelies and the C load Falken 255/85/16s

I just hate how those tires are still so heavy despite being a load C. I could have a much lighter E load tire in a 255/80/17 but I'm worried that the ride will be too rough.

 

[Jayson182]

I'll get a c for sure. Either 255/85r16 or 265/75/16. I'm going to see if I can find a junk 255/85 just to test fitment. I'm okay removing crash bars but don't want to do any trimming. Max would be pinning the liner back.

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