Lion77
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- Joined
- Feb 27, 2025
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- 28
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- 786
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- Location
- United States
- Vehicle(s)
- 2024 Ranger Raptor
- Occupation
- Electrical Engineer
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- #1
2024 RR that is stock aside from Pro Cal, tonneau cover and bug guard. Since I had just a cheap Husky air compressor I only aired down to 30 psi since it takes FOREVER to even get 10 PSI back into the tires.
Note that Southington is dominated by Jeeps, literaly 90% of the vehicles there were jeeps, and 75% of them were 10+ years old beaters. Most of the newer Jeeps on the trails were 4-door and 2-door Wrangler Rubicon's, there were a few Gladiators there but none of them did any of the trails (probably due to the length as the wheelbase is almost a foot longer than the RR).
I would argue as stock RR is actually better than the Gladiator Rubicon on trails due to wheelbase alone when you gotta make tighter turns, it also has a better break-over angle even if it doesn't have the jeep's legendary approach angle, but Wrangler Rubicon's are still better trail-focused 4x4's (not counting all the reliability issues, economy car-like-acceleration and worn out pick-up truck-like steering slop), as would the Bronco's, to nobody's surprise.
1. The RR, even though its' considerably smaller than the F-150 Raptor or BRaptor, isn't exactly "jeep" skinny, it will fit on most of the jeep trails, but not the heavily rutted ones (as in worn down almost 2 feet into the ground) due to the width. It's about as wide as I would ever want to go on a trail through wooded areas.
2. Stock 33" tires and ride height are not nearly as bad as people make it out to be and got me through most of the same stuff as a stock 4-door Wrangler Rubicon or Sahara's, but what I did find is the same complaint that most of the reviewers have had on trails, the side steps do get in the way on rough stuff and really hold it back clearance wise eve at the stock ride height and tire size. Slides alone would really up the "trail capability" of an otherwise stock RR without affecting its true nature as a Baja truck (i.e., high speed handling / performance).
3. Definitely need to air down below 30 PSI, my buddy's 2011 Sahara had a smoother ride than my RR. Obviously, the damping rates of the 2.5" live valve shocks are tuned to handle actual jumps, but that does make it bumpier on rough trails than the Jeeps. Note his Sahara was bone stock, and every passenger noted it had a softer ride than my RR. He was also at 40 PSI, so not even aired down.
4. A mild lift (1" front and 1" rear) with 34" tires would be a good compromise between a little added trail capability with limited detriment to high-speed handling. I'm thinking of eventually going to GOAT 1" strut spacers front and rear on a set of 285/75R17 KO3's. That would give me total of 1.5" more minimum ground clearance and no total weight gain if paired with a lighter wheel like the Method 703's something comparable. 10.7" + 1.5" = 12.2", same as the Colorado ZR2 Bison or the Canyon AT4.
The outer diameter of the stock 285/70R17's is 32.8", the 285/75R17's are 33.8". 56lbs vs. 63lbs. I really like the K03's for off-road and the mud. I might lose 2 / 10th's in the quarter mile due to the slightly taller drive, but it's not much and probably wouldn't be noticeable on-road, nothing like going to a true 35" tire in 315 width. For now, I'm going to stick with stock 33" K03's until they wear out to really get a feel for their limits in a variety of use cases, so far they did just fine in the OHV park and I would get a lot more benefit from sliders than slightly larger tires and mild lift for a lot less money.
1. 90% of my driving is on a variety of roads (paved, gavel and dirt) and highways. Some dirt logging / fire roads, rough back country gravel pack roads and highways, few farm fields. So, zero need for more clearance there.
2. OHV use is split mixture of 4x4 trails (slow, obstacle laden than favors clearance) and dunes (higher speed + jumping), about 50/50.
Given that most of the use cases are either on roads of some type and half the off-roading is going to be dunes, the 4x4 OHV trails is the least use case, I'm better off focusing on trying to avoid modifications that make the truck sluggish / tippy / imprecise just for an inch or two of clearance. At most I might get it on par with a ZR2 Bison while still preserving 95% of its handling, braking and acceleration dynamics, similar to the FP Race truck that ran the Baja 1000.
They ran 35's, but didn't alter the ride height. They only used stiffer springs for compensate for the added weight of the safety gear and extra fuel. The race team noted that the 35"s were really only beneficial for Baja 1000 due to the very rough terrain, not so much at Finke where it was smoother, so that's why I'm thinking a 1" lift and 285/75R17 combo might be a good balance down the road and for CHEAP.
If I wait til I wear out the stock 33's, I'm getting my money's worth, so I'd be buying tires anyway. 1" GOAT strut spacers are under $400 and don't require new UCA's, they don't even require a recalibration of the ride height position sensors with forscan. Also 1" spacers give just enough added clearance to avoid any rubbing with the 34" tire under hard use.
That's just my 2 cents. Also, will probably be adding some L-track in the bed to hold an air pump and a few other items.
My buddy drove into a mud-pit that was....a little deeper than he expected, ROFL!
There were several lakes in the park, really beautiful area. Perfect day for it!
Note that Southington is dominated by Jeeps, literaly 90% of the vehicles there were jeeps, and 75% of them were 10+ years old beaters. Most of the newer Jeeps on the trails were 4-door and 2-door Wrangler Rubicon's, there were a few Gladiators there but none of them did any of the trails (probably due to the length as the wheelbase is almost a foot longer than the RR).
I would argue as stock RR is actually better than the Gladiator Rubicon on trails due to wheelbase alone when you gotta make tighter turns, it also has a better break-over angle even if it doesn't have the jeep's legendary approach angle, but Wrangler Rubicon's are still better trail-focused 4x4's (not counting all the reliability issues, economy car-like-acceleration and worn out pick-up truck-like steering slop), as would the Bronco's, to nobody's surprise.
1. The RR, even though its' considerably smaller than the F-150 Raptor or BRaptor, isn't exactly "jeep" skinny, it will fit on most of the jeep trails, but not the heavily rutted ones (as in worn down almost 2 feet into the ground) due to the width. It's about as wide as I would ever want to go on a trail through wooded areas.
2. Stock 33" tires and ride height are not nearly as bad as people make it out to be and got me through most of the same stuff as a stock 4-door Wrangler Rubicon or Sahara's, but what I did find is the same complaint that most of the reviewers have had on trails, the side steps do get in the way on rough stuff and really hold it back clearance wise eve at the stock ride height and tire size. Slides alone would really up the "trail capability" of an otherwise stock RR without affecting its true nature as a Baja truck (i.e., high speed handling / performance).
3. Definitely need to air down below 30 PSI, my buddy's 2011 Sahara had a smoother ride than my RR. Obviously, the damping rates of the 2.5" live valve shocks are tuned to handle actual jumps, but that does make it bumpier on rough trails than the Jeeps. Note his Sahara was bone stock, and every passenger noted it had a softer ride than my RR. He was also at 40 PSI, so not even aired down.
4. A mild lift (1" front and 1" rear) with 34" tires would be a good compromise between a little added trail capability with limited detriment to high-speed handling. I'm thinking of eventually going to GOAT 1" strut spacers front and rear on a set of 285/75R17 KO3's. That would give me total of 1.5" more minimum ground clearance and no total weight gain if paired with a lighter wheel like the Method 703's something comparable. 10.7" + 1.5" = 12.2", same as the Colorado ZR2 Bison or the Canyon AT4.
The outer diameter of the stock 285/70R17's is 32.8", the 285/75R17's are 33.8". 56lbs vs. 63lbs. I really like the K03's for off-road and the mud. I might lose 2 / 10th's in the quarter mile due to the slightly taller drive, but it's not much and probably wouldn't be noticeable on-road, nothing like going to a true 35" tire in 315 width. For now, I'm going to stick with stock 33" K03's until they wear out to really get a feel for their limits in a variety of use cases, so far they did just fine in the OHV park and I would get a lot more benefit from sliders than slightly larger tires and mild lift for a lot less money.
1. 90% of my driving is on a variety of roads (paved, gavel and dirt) and highways. Some dirt logging / fire roads, rough back country gravel pack roads and highways, few farm fields. So, zero need for more clearance there.
2. OHV use is split mixture of 4x4 trails (slow, obstacle laden than favors clearance) and dunes (higher speed + jumping), about 50/50.
Given that most of the use cases are either on roads of some type and half the off-roading is going to be dunes, the 4x4 OHV trails is the least use case, I'm better off focusing on trying to avoid modifications that make the truck sluggish / tippy / imprecise just for an inch or two of clearance. At most I might get it on par with a ZR2 Bison while still preserving 95% of its handling, braking and acceleration dynamics, similar to the FP Race truck that ran the Baja 1000.
They ran 35's, but didn't alter the ride height. They only used stiffer springs for compensate for the added weight of the safety gear and extra fuel. The race team noted that the 35"s were really only beneficial for Baja 1000 due to the very rough terrain, not so much at Finke where it was smoother, so that's why I'm thinking a 1" lift and 285/75R17 combo might be a good balance down the road and for CHEAP.
If I wait til I wear out the stock 33's, I'm getting my money's worth, so I'd be buying tires anyway. 1" GOAT strut spacers are under $400 and don't require new UCA's, they don't even require a recalibration of the ride height position sensors with forscan. Also 1" spacers give just enough added clearance to avoid any rubbing with the 34" tire under hard use.
That's just my 2 cents. Also, will probably be adding some L-track in the bed to hold an air pump and a few other items.
My buddy drove into a mud-pit that was....a little deeper than he expected, ROFL!
There were several lakes in the park, really beautiful area. Perfect day for it!
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