I have the end cap type and if you reach down from above on the right side you can fit it on. I had to buy one because my old truck had easy access and I used the strap type. If it wasn't 12 degrees out and the middle of the week I'd get a pic for everyone with the cap wrench on.
This was the post that has the Rival in it :
I have never used that type of wrench but there is room to use one. As @jeffers posted above it seems to work for him.
I guess I should mention its only for loosening the filter never for tightening, it damages the filter.This is the best tool
Those things are great I used it on previous vehicles.This is the best tool
Thank you for the post. I'm due to do the first oil change on my 2024 Lariat 2.3L and was looking for information to reference. This will be helpful.I have always done my own oil changes on my vehicles, and wanted to continue with my new Ranger, but with the placement of the oil filter, it looked like a difficult task. Well, I had already bought Mobil 1 oil, and a motorcraft filter, so I decided to tackle it.
This is what I used to do it.
I had a strap type filter wrench, that attaches to a 3/8 extension and wrech, and it proved to be ideal
I did not remove the tire, and only had to remove one pin insert from the fender inner skirt
I was able to pull back the skirt a little, and reach in and slide the filter wrench over the filter. The fact that the extension is to the side of the wrench, and not the middle, actually helped. You can see how it worked in this picture
I could only turn the filter maybe 1/4" at a time, and the had to reach in and rotate the strap wrench to the right, and then do it again, I think it was about 5 times, but it was very simple, because I didnt have to remove it, just had to rotate/slide it on the filter. At this point, I removed the wrench, and the filter could be turned by hand.
I had read that the filter oil would drain down a built in funnel, but couldnt see it, without removing the entire inner fender skirt. This would require removing I think 5 insert/pins, and 7 or so small screws. Luckily, the oil leaked out of the filter very slowly, and only a couple of drops landed on the ground before I could see where the funnel emptied. It comes out just behind the front sway bar, and next to the driver side frame rail.
Its that little black tube you see in the 2nd picture. If you set your drain pan just behind the sway bar bracket, and centered on the frame rail, it should catch any oil from the filter. I would watch and reposition if required. I had very little oil leak out of the filter as I removed it. The filter came out the same space a the wrench went in thru, up and a little to the left of the original position of the filter. It might be beneficial to spray some cleaner down thru the funnel to keep it clean, maybe next time. I usually run my vehicles up the curb on the side the filter is on, and this allows me enough room to work under the car. This also tilted the truck slightly, and may have been responsible for some of the oil leaking back out of the filter before I removed it. I also put the drain plug at the lowest point. Guess the same could be done with a single ramp on just the drivers side. Maybe it really doesnt matter.
I dont have pictures for the oil drain, but its self explanatory. There is a plastic "skid plate" that has to be removed. Its held in place by 6, 15mm bolts. The 3 on the back need to be removed completely, as well as the center one at the front, the 2 at the other ends in the front can just be loosened up, and the plastic "skid plate" slides out. The oil pan is aluminum, and the drain bolt takes the same 15mm socket. The drain plug has a built in silicon washer, that is reusable, so you just re use it. Be careful not to cross thread or over tighten the drain plug, thread it in by hand as much as you can. Remember, the pan is aluminum. The bolts holding the "skid plate" up are pretty stiff to remove, they have a factory loctite on them.
I put in just under 5 1/2 quarts of 5-30 Mobil 1, and will move the truck to a level area to check the level. Now that I have done it once, I think I can do the next oil change in less than 1/2 hour. I was really concerned wether I would be able to remove and replace the oil filter. Specially since Im 70, and not as flexible as I used to be, plus have arthritis in my thumbs, but it was pretty easy. I printed out the instructions on how to reset the oil monitor, and my wife laminated it into a card for me. I will keep this card along with the top of the new filter box, with all the oil change details, date, mileage, next oil change, type of oil, and socked size needed, written on the back of it, in the glove compartment.
Reset the oil monitor, checked my other fluids (no power steering!), and now Im good for another 7500 miles. Yes, I changed my oil at 7500 miles, and will keep that schedule. Its what I have done in all previous vehicles since switching to Mobil 1 on my 1986 Bronco II. There was 24% oil life left at the time of the oil change.
I hope this helps someone considering doing a DIY oil change.
