2025 Ranger 6G - 4-Wheel Flat Towing behind RVs - YES!

[Wetsib]

Songkaji-
I installed the Curt wiring harness to my Ranger Lariat. While the brake lights and turn signals worked as they should, the driving lights do not. The driving lights facing the rear do not illuminate, however the driving lights on the side do illuminate. Any suggestions?

I should also add that on the Lariat the tail light bottom C is not used, only the top C. I found other posts in other threads that confirm this. After re-readng your posts, I realized your top C doesn’t work either. So my Curt harness seems to be working the same as your Curt harness. Also, I checked the Lariat pinout diagram and compared it to your raptor pinout-they are the same.
A head scratcher, for sure.
Anyone else with a Lariat out there that had success with the Curt harness, or any other harness for that matter?

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[songkajai]

Humm,
Maybe I wrote something wrong?
The top C works fine for the driving lights.
Don't see any post that says that as well, maybe missing it.
Anyway, if it is as I was reading.
Turn/Brake = OK ( top C bright)
Driving lights = not working in the back but side and other driving lights turn on? ( should be top C dim only)
Assuming this is not being confused with lights turning on when the door is opened, as I did at first.
With the curt or even the manual cut your wiring harness, they power the rear lights only.
If you are seeing that the side marker lights are turning on/off this would be a mistake/defect in the Curt harness.
From the brown wire the diodes block power from going into the truck wiring that turn on the side marker lights and allow power to the back taillight.
IN your case it is doing the the opposite, power is going in the truck wire to turn on the side marker lights but blocking the power to the taillight.
That means they have the wires switched in the harness.
Will need to fix or replace the harness.
Although annoying, fixing it is not extremely hard.
Changing the harness ????

 

[songkajai]

This is how it should be.
IT seems they have the diode going to the back light and not the truck wire as it should be.
Also note that the Curt harness does not have a diode on the brown wire going back to the towing vehicle, this is noted in several threads and is what causes the tow vehicle lights to turn on when the truck lights are activated.
Nobody has mentioned any issues with this along with myself. If anyone wants to fix that they can add a diode anyplace on the brown wire back to the towing vehicle. IF I was going to fix mine I would put in the Pollak connector on the front of the truck. (easy)
Oops, I drew the Diode backwards, it should be the other direction!

 

[Wetsib]

Humm,
Maybe I wrote something wrong?
The top C works fine for the driving lights.
Don't see any post that says that as well, maybe missing it.
Anyway, if it is as I was reading.
Turn/Brake = OK ( top C bright)
Driving lights = not working in the back but side and other driving lights turn on? ( should be top C dim only)
Assuming this is not being confused with lights turning on when the door is opened, as I did at first.
With the curt or even the manual cut your wiring harness, they power the rear lights only.
If you are seeing that the side marker lights are turning on/off this would be a mistake/defect in the Curt harness.
From the brown wire the diodes block power from going into the truck wiring that turn on the side marker lights and allow power to the back taillight.
IN your case it is doing the the opposite, power is going in the truck wire to turn on the side marker lights but blocking the power to the taillight.
That means they have the wires switched in the harness.
Will need to fix or replace the harness.
Although annoying, fixing it is not extremely hard.
Changing the harness ????

The only side marker light that comes on is the one contained within the tail light. No other side marker lights get illuminated.
BTW, I appreciate your effort to help me out.

 

[songkajai]

If you want to add can use these diodes. These are 5 amp and should be fine but can get about any current rating you want. They are small enough that could put one in the boot in the front Pollak connector. Although nobody has mentioned it . Would suspect the brake/turn wire is the same issue so might want to use on all 3 wires.
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[songkajai]

The only side marker light that comes on is the one contained within the tail light. No other side marker lights get illuminated.
BTW, I appreciate your effort to help me out.

You are saying the light that comes on is the top/light in the taillight assembly?
IT only uses one. The top C and what seems like the side of the taillight is the same light/circuit.
It is dim so hard to see if it is in sunlight.

If that is the case, it sounds like it is correct.

No other marker lights turn on and that is normal for 'all" tow wiring kits. To light all the marker lights would requiring a connection at every light or back-feeding in the truck. That is what the diode prevents

 

[Wetsib]

You are saying the light that comes on is the top/light in the taillight assembly?
IT only uses one. The top C and what seems like the side of the taillight is the same light/circuit.
It is dim so hard to see if it is in sunlight.

If that is the case, it sounds like it is correct.

No other marker lights turn on and that is normal for 'all" tow wiring kits. To light all the marker lights would requiring a connection at every light or back-feeding in the truck. That is what the diode prevents

Your understanding is correct. However, while the side of the top c is clearly illuminated, the rear of the top c does not appear to be illuminated. Admittedly I have not tested it when it is dark, but seems like the rear of the top c should be as bright as the side of the top c. I will test it tonight and see what I see.

 

[songkajai]

I would check in shade or darker. It is kind of a dull glow and changes to sharp bright brake/turn.
The side part is textured different that gives a red look like any other marker light.
The C part has a texture that gives it a neon look, quit different.
Once you see it at night it is fine

 

[songkajai]

Your understanding is correct. However, while the side of the top c is clearly illuminated, the rear of the top c does not appear to be illuminated. Admittedly I have not tested it when it is dark, but seems like the rear of the top c should be as bright as the side of the top c. I will test it tonight and see what I see.

Any update on this issue?

 

[Wetsib]

I removed that harness before trying it in the dark. As I couldn’t see the rear tail light illuminate in a shadowed area during the day, I figure it is not working as it should.
I contacted Curt, and they said they are getting quite a few requests for a harness to fit to a 24-25 Ranger. They suggested to keep checking back every two weeks, as they may offer a compatible harness in the near future.
In the meantime, I wired up my old set of magnetic lights from my previous ranger. They still work fine, just not as convenient as what I had hoped for.

 

[rjoustra]

I tried installing the Blue Ox 4-diode kit in the taillight housing of my 2025 Ranger, but neither the brake nor running lights are working. I identified pins 2 and 9 as the correct circuits — pin 2 for running lights and pin 9 for brake lights.

When connected to the motorhome, I get no lights at all. To troubleshoot, I disconnected the setup and confirmed that I have 12V at the rear wiring. However, as soon as I plug the connection back into the taillight assembly, the voltage drops to about 3VDC and the lights still don’t come on.

Am I missing something here, or could it be that the PWM signal from the BCM is what the LED driver inside the taillight is expecting to see in order to illuminate properly?



UPDATE:
Still cannot get running lights to work on the tail light although the side marker in the tail light does illuminate (similar to what someone mentioned with the F150 harness they were using)so I know everything is getting to the truck and grounded properly.

Ordered a pair of lights that nest nicely under the tail gate just above the bumper so they can stay in place permanently.

A bit disappointing, but hopefully an after market like Curt will come up with a nice solution soon. For now these will suit the purpose and they don't need to be put on or removed every time we tow.

 

[Bills_Raptor]

I would check in shade or darker. It is kind of a dull glow and changes to sharp bright brake/turn.
The side part is textured different that gives a red look like any other marker light.
The C part has a texture that gives it a neon look, quit different.
Once you see it at night it is fine

Ordered the 52103 for 2025 RR. Installing that with Roadmaster tow brackets. (Already have the RM Nighthawk/Patriot 3). TY for taking lead and sharing. Couple questions please?

1. Do the rear taillights illuminate with RV lights? Drive alot at night
2. With my Jeep Gladiator they sold a fuse that made the 12V outlet always hot. Trying not to buy a battery. Thoughts?
3. So ill still need a 7way to 4way coiled cord from RV - RR correct?

 

[songkajai]

Ordered the 52103 for 2025 RR. Installing that with Roadmaster tow brackets. (Already have the RM Nighthawk/Patriot 3). TY for taking lead and sharing. Couple questions please?

1. Do the rear taillights illuminate with RV lights? Drive alot at night
2. With my Jeep Gladiator they sold a fuse that made the 12V outlet always hot. Trying not to buy a battery. Thoughts?
3. So ill still need a 7way to 4way coiled cord from RV - RR correct?

As of the taillights I have been meaning to double check this. Have towed a couple thousand miles since the setup. As mentioned from the Lariat seems to be only the side LED's. Wonder if something different than the Raptor...
Anyway, when I get home will put this question to bed permanently by posting some photos if it works or not!
If by chance the taillights do not work correctly would still be using the F150 harness as it allows for modifications without cutting any factory wires.
The diode kit that is recommended, is a nightmare when it comes to installing without much damage to the truck wiring. Earlier in this thread is the plug pinout for the Raptor. The problem is after the frame wiring it changes to all black, tiny wire, pigtail from the all sealed lights. The Curt harness has a Male to Female 6" bridge for all the 11 wires. A perfect place to modify if needed!

As of the outlet, if you want to add, would suggest a completely new one and leave the one in the dash alone.
As of using a small battery pack, I have found the Patriot pulls about 8watts, on and off as it recharges its internal battery. We ran for a 10 day trip and it was still charged to 82%.

The 7pin to 6pin that goes on the toad comes preinstalled on the Nighthawk. The Pollak connector also comes with the tow parts.
The beak-away switch comes with the Patriot.
A bracket comes with the Base plate that can be used to hold the connector. Just above the license plate towards the passenger side it already has a mounting spot. The bolts you take out/change from the intercooler bracket fit perfectly.

If you have not seen the post about mounting the baseplates, would strongly suggest taking a look at that as, what they tell you is ridiculous!
NO need to take much of anything except the skid plate off. The spacers they give are just stupid!

 

[Bills_Raptor]

As of the taillights I have been meaning to double check this. Have towed a couple thousand miles since the setup. As mentioned from the Lariat seems to be only the side LED's. Wonder if something different than the Raptor...
Anyway, when I get home will put this question to bed permanently by posting some photos if it works or not!
If by chance the taillights do not work correctly would still be using the F150 harness as it allows for modifications without cutting any factory wires.
The diode kit that is recommended, is a nightmare when it comes to installing without much damage to the truck wiring. Earlier in this thread is the plug pinout for the Raptor. The problem is after the frame wiring it changes to all black, tiny wire, pigtail from the all sealed lights. The Curt harness has a Male to Female 6" bridge for all the 11 wires. A perfect place to modify if needed!

As of the outlet, if you want to add, would suggest a completely new one and leave the one in the dash alone.
As of using a small battery pack, I have found the Patriot pulls about 8watts, on and off as it recharges its internal battery. We ran for a 10 day trip and it was still charged to 82%.

The 7pin to 6pin that goes on the toad comes preinstalled on the Nighthawk. The Pollak connector also comes with the tow parts.
The beak-away switch comes with the Patriot.
A bracket comes with the Base plate that can be used to hold the connector. Just above the license plate towards the passenger side it already has a mounting spot. The bolts you take out/change from the intercooler bracket fit perfectly.

If you have not seen the post about mounting the baseplates, would strongly suggest taking a look at that as, what they tell you is ridiculous!
NO need to take much of anything except the skid plate off. The spacers they give are just stupid!

Thanks im using the Roadmaster bracket (not blueox). I can change the RM 7 way-6 way tona 7way -4 way pretty easy

 

[songkajai]

Thanks im using the Roadmaster bracket (not blueox). I can change the RM 7 way-6 way tona 7way -4 way pretty easy

Everything in this thread is for the Roadmaster Baseplate/bracket. Not sure why you would want to change the 6pin with a 4pin as everything you need comes with the parts you mentioned. The bracket is for the 6 pin, if you latter want to add a charge cable or something else the 6 pin has the power cable. It is a set screw connection on the back of the 6-pin Pollak they give you so you just cut off the end on the flat 4-wire truck side.
The 7pin -6pin cable is intergraded into the tow bar as it taps into wires for the lights on the towbar.

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