2025 Ranger 6G - 4-Wheel Flat Towing behind RVs - YES!

[Bills_Raptor]

Everything in this thread is for the Roadmaster Baseplate/bracket. Not sure why you would want to change the 6pin with a 4pin as everything you need comes with the parts you mentioned. The bracket is for the 6 pin, if you latter want to add a charge cable or something else the 6 pin has the power cable. It is a set screw connection on the back of the 6-pin Pollak they give you so you just cut off the end on the flat 4-wire truck side.

I prefer the 6 pin. It doesnt come with the Curt 52103. I didnt open the hardware for the RM brackets. Hardware bag is very thin…But hope its in there

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[songkajai]

I prefer the 6 pin. It doesnt come with the Curt 52103. I didnt open the hardware for the RM brackets. Hardware bag is very thin…But hope its in there

Yes, the 6pin Pollak comes with the Nighhawk, Mine was broken so E-trailer sent me a new one. The bracket comes with the Roadmaster Baseplate. YOu have to bend it to fit and cut off a little. The screw and pace to mount it is all ready in place! The bolt being one removed from the intercooler bracket!

 

[Bills_Raptor]

Yes, the 6pin Pollak comes with the Nighhawk, Mine was broken so E-trailer sent me a new one. The bracket comes with the Roadmaster Baseplate. YOu have to bend it to fit and cut off a little. The screw and pace to mount it is all ready in place! The bolt being one removed from the intercooler bracket!

Aaah ok my bad. I used it and left it on my previous gladiator toad .

 

[dajo]

If anyone is wondering the brake lights on the Raptor work for a few minutes when pedal is pushed. They shut down when electrical powers down in a few minutes and don't work until door is opened or some other event that cause electrical powerup. I bypassed the factory wiring and use motorhome for powering rear lights.

 

[Bills_Raptor]

If anyone is wondering the brake lights on the Raptor work for a few minutes when pedal is pushed. They shut down when electrical powers down in a few minutes and don't work until door is opened or some other event that cause electrical powerup. I bypassed the factory wiring and use motorhome for powering rear lights.

Sorry I’m lil new at this. When being a toad, Doesn’t the power for lights come ftom the umbilical power cord to the RV?

 

[Bills_Raptor]

Yes, the 6pin Pollak comes with the Nighhawk, Mine was broken so E-trailer sent me a new one. The bracket comes with the Roadmaster Baseplate. YOu have to bend it to fit and cut off a little. The screw and pace to mount it is all ready in place! The bolt being one removed from the intercooler bracket!

Are you saying the brackets too tall to fit in the air intake under the bumper? So you bent it for a shorter profile?

Pictures! Pictures! PLEASE?

 

[dajo]

QUOTE="Bills_Raptor, post: 340311, member: 13926"]
Sorry I’m lil new at this. When being a toad, Doesn’t the power for lights come ftom the umbilical power cord to the RV?
[/QUOTE]
Most rv in the past have used a harness made by the towing system that connects to the vehicle harness something like a trailer towing wire harness and using the existing towed vehicle taillights. Yes it is usually powered from the motorhome. Some used diodes spliced into the towed vehicle harness. Vehicle wiring has gotten more complex and they use tiny wires that are difficult to cut and splice. The option I am using this time is magnetic taillight completely independent of the towed vehicle and powered directly from the RV. https://www.etrailer.com/Flat-Tow-W...MI-aihs4efkAMVdJUiBR36BwaOEAQYASABEgLT1fD_BwE

 

[JDTremor]

The option I am using this time is magnetic taillight completely independent of the towed vehicle and powered directly from the RV

That is what I did with my Rubicon. Easier than splicing and dicing. LOL

 

[songkajai]

Are you saying the brackets too tall to fit in the air intake under the bumper? So you bent it for a shorter profile?

Pictures! Pictures! PLEASE?

The bracket supplied is a generic bracket. It is a flat cut piece that looks like a 10" key, it has notches for bending to what you need. I am out of the country at the moment but will take some more pictures when I get home mid week.

Took me a minute to understand what Dajo was talking about. He is saying that using the Patriot braking that pushes the brake peddle that would turn on the brake lights, but on the ranger that circuit times out after a short time. Never considered this as usable anyway as it does not give you turn signals.

As mentioned before the F150 Curt harness for certain works the turn and brake lights. Also has the side part of the taillight working. The question does the actual taillight work. Have been using this for a few thousand miles now but second guessing the tail light part. Will confirm this in the dark when I get home. If by chance it does not, the easy solution would be putting a red LED strip just below the tailgate, that should work fine and the wire is already at the added curt connector.

 

[songkajai]

Here is some pictures of the connectors, Raptor, and F150 pinouts. The one with the extra wire is the F150. The connector with the little black wires is going up to the taillight. Nothing accessible behind the taillight so no point in taking that apart.
The stupid spacers they give with the Roadmaster baseplate were removed and a proper 3/16" shim plate was made. The spacers are just bad news for stability as an engineering standpoint! Be sure the new shim is cut short enough it does not hang up on the ridge from the extra factory frame support on the back side.

 

[Bills_Raptor]

Here is some pictures of the connectors, Raptor, and F150 pinouts. The one with the extra wire is the F150. The connector with the little black wires is going up to the taillight. Nothing accessible behind the taillight so no point in taking that apart.
The stupid spacers they give with the Roadmaster baseplate were removed and a proper 3/16" shim plate was made. The spacers are just bad news for stability as an engineering standpoint! Be sure the new shim is cut short enough it does not hang up on the ridge from the extra factory frame support on the back side.

Wow! Thank you. So you just got some flat 3/16” steel and made better shims? Nice! Im confused with what black wire hour referencing? Does it do anything?

 

[songkajai]

If your talking about the nut with the wire weld on it? It is for the bar that goes off to the side. It mounts to a hole in the frame gusset that is hard to get to the top side.
And about that hole mess! They want you to take off much of the front of the truck to slightly enlarge 2 hole that go through the frame midway up.
That is the top part of the side triangles.
Again the design is to keep it from wobbling around because of the stupid spacers.
What I did was find a metric Stainless Steel bolt that was slightly smaller and I could install the whole thing without removing anything except the Skid plate.
Did not want to drill the frame and make a rust spot and since the proper spacers it is rock solid.
Did the same for the side arm, used a slightly smaller bolt as they want you to drill that out as well and it is a drain whole that will certainly see a lot of water, mud, road salt!
They could have made this so much better!
You do still have to install the spacer on each side of the frame as well. Not much can do about that and it has no real load in those points anyway!

 

[songkajai]

PS: loosely bolt it all up with every bolt. After all are in then you can tighten it.
Also the small bolts given for the lovers are junk and will hardly work, Get some SS and bigger fender washers, as the ones given will fall though the hole and barely bit the plastic.
Wish they would have just threaded them like the original was. Anyway those are the bolts you use to mount the breakaway switch and the 6 pin.

I had 1/8" and 1/4" so had to go get a piece, home depot was a joke. Menards or a metal place has the 3/16". Be sure to paint it before install to help avoid rust! And make sure once you hold it up to the holes it does not catch the back edge where the part numbers are stamped on the frame.

 

[songkajai]

What so many fail to understand is when using a harness like the Curt. It uses male and female plugs to add a section cable that can easiely be modified if needed to avoid any damage to the truck wiring. Also if you are want to remove it, all will be removed with no damage to the stock wiring.
You can even use extra lights say for the taillights with a simple connection.
I have have ready people don't want to use the harness or have had it then returned it and instead went with a butcher the original wire method. That makes no since as even if you cut up and Modified the Curt harness you could do the same and not damage the truck wiring!

 

[Bills_Raptor]

PS: loosely bolt it all up with every bolt. After all are in then you can tighten it.
Also the small bolts given for the lovers are junk and will hardly work, Get some SS and bigger fender washers, as the ones given will fall though the hole and barely bit the plastic.
Wish they would have just threaded them like the original was. Anyway those are the bolts you use to mount the breakaway switch and the 6 pin.

I had 1/8" and 1/4" so had to go get a piece, home depot was a joke. Menards or a metal place has the 3/16". Be sure to paint it before install to help avoid rust! And make sure once you hold it up to the holes it does not catch the back edge where the part numbers are stamped on the frame.

Ok this is confusing. Ill have to wait until i get skid plate off to better understand some of what your referencing. I will DM you so we can ho offline if thats ok? I will take pics during process to help others.

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