Signature Lux DRL install on a 2024 XLT

[Offsidewing]

Spent Christmas Day installing the @Signature Lux DRLs on my 2024 XLT. It was a tedious install. I've never hated anything the way I hate the top inside screws on the DRL modules. The real MVP of the install was a self fabricated 1/4 wrench and 15T torx bit held together with painters tape.

There is no room between the frame and back of DRL housing to fit any of the 3 flexible driver extentions I have. Even with the home-rigged tool, it was one hand through the wheel well holding the bit to the screw and one hand over the top turning a quarter turn at a time.

I broke one black clip being as careful as I possibly could. Ironically, the second black clip stayed intacted because I didnt really give a hoot if it broke. Go figure.

Driver side sucks just as much as passenger side.

The pictures don't do the amber light justice. They are sweet looking. Even my wife thinks they look sweet.

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[SoulMafia]

Did you pull the tires? How long did it take?

 

[Offsidewing]

Did you pull the tires? How long did it take?

Yes, pulled the tires and dropped the mudguards. Took me about 7 hours doing 95% of it solo. With a knowledgable buddy as a second set of hands it probably takes less than 4. I easily spent a couple hours figuring out the best way to remove 2 screws and connect/disconnect wiring harnesses with one set of hands through the wheel well and under the hood - that's the time consuming part. My wife (with an engineering degress) helped shave at least 30-45 minutes of fumbling around by connecting the wiring harness under the hood on the driver's side while I held the DRL module in place through the wheel well.

It's just really tedious working in such a small space. Pulling the fenders didn't help either, but was simple to do.

 

[Stu x 4]

Spent Christmas Day installing the @Signature Lux DRLs on my 2024 XLT. It was a tedious install. I've never hated anything the way I hate the top inside screws on the DRL modules. The real MVP of the install was a self fabricated 1/4 wrench and 15T torx bit held together with painters tape.

There is no room between the frame and back of DRL housing to fit any of the 3 flexible driver extentions I have. Even with the home-rigged tool, it was one hand through the wheel well holding the bit to the screw and one hand over the top turning a quarter turn at a time.

I broke one black clip being as careful as I possibly could. Ironically, the second black clip stayed intacted because I didnt really give a hoot if it broke. Go figure.

Driver side sucks just as much as passenger side.

The pictures don't do the amber light justice. They are sweet looking. Even my wife thinks they look sweet.

Liked the painter's tape.....duct tape also is a universal tool I've used many times....install looks good.

 

[ryanO]

Spent Christmas Day installing the @Signature Lux DRLs on my 2024 XLT. It was a tedious install. I've never hated anything the way I hate the top inside screws on the DRL modules. The real MVP of the install was a self fabricated 1/4 wrench and 15T torx bit held together with painters tape.

There is no room between the frame and back of DRL housing to fit any of the 3 flexible driver extentions I have. Even with the home-rigged tool, it was one hand through the wheel well holding the bit to the screw and one hand over the top turning a quarter turn at a time.

I broke one black clip being as careful as I possibly could. Ironically, the second black clip stayed intacted because I didnt really give a hoot if it broke. Go figure.

Driver side sucks just as much as passenger side.

The pictures don't do the amber light justice. They are sweet looking. Even my wife thinks they look sweet.

Looks awesome! I have a '25 XLT and after looking at it it seems there's a LOT more room to get to everything. Did you order the Non-Matrix board?

Spent Christmas Day installing the @Signature Lux DRLs on my 2024 XLT. It was a tedious install. I've never hated anything the way I hate the top inside screws on the DRL modules. The real MVP of the install was a self fabricated 1/4 wrench and 15T torx bit held together with painters tape.

There is no room between the frame and back of DRL housing to fit any of the 3 flexible driver extentions I have. Even with the home-rigged tool, it was one hand through the wheel well holding the bit to the screw and one hand over the top turning a quarter turn at a time.

I broke one black clip being as careful as I possibly could. Ironically, the second black clip stayed intacted because I didnt really give a hoot if it broke. Go figure.

Driver side sucks just as much as passenger side.

The pictures don't do the amber light justice. They are sweet looking. Even my wife thinks they look sweet.

Did you order the non-matrix boards? I have a 2025 XLT 2.7L and it seems to have a lot more room to do this swap. Maybe I'm wistfully dreaming...LOL

 

[Offsidewing]

Non-Matrix for stock XLT headlights.

 

[CT801]

Is taking the entire headlight out an option? Are they a pain to remove, moreso then trying to get to the module?

 

[ryanO]

Is taking the entire headlight out an option? Are they a pain to remove, moreso then trying to get to the module?

That's an option but not a good one. A lot of the front end must come off for that.

 

[Offsidewing]

Looks awesome! I have a '25 XLT and after looking at it it seems there's a LOT more room to get to everything. Did you order the Non-Matrix board?

Did you order the non-matrix boards? I have a 2025 XLT 2.7L and it seems to have a lot more room to do this swap. Maybe I'm wistfully dreaming...LOL

The problem isnt the space inside the fenders, its that the inside screw on the back of the module is largely inaccessible due to how close it is to the frame. No tool fits in there easily. There's three screws on each module. Two screws come out in a matter of seconds. The third screw will make you question your own existence.

 

[ryanO]

The problem isnt the space inside the fenders, its that the inside screw on the back of the module is largely inaccessible due to how close it is to the frame. No tool fits in there easily. There's three screws on each module. Two screws come out in a matter of seconds. The third screw will make you question your own existence.

The one closest to the fender?

 

[Offsidewing]

The one closest to the fender?

Nope, the one closest to the engine - its tucked behind a weird part of the frame. You can see it in this Pic.

Driver side - You have maybe an inch of room between the housing and the frame next to the screw. Then maybe an inch and a half between the screw and the frame directly behind the screw. Then you have a very tight space to leverage a tool. None of the flex extentions I had could snake in there. But my "self fabricated" wrench did the trick 1/8th of a turn at a time.

 

[ryanO]

Nope, the one closest to the engine - its tucked behind a weird part of the frame. You can see it in this Pic.

Driver side - You have maybe an inch of room between the housing and the frame next to the screw. Then maybe an inch and a half between the screw and the frame directly behind the screw. Then you have a very tight space to leverage a tool. None of the flex extentions I had could snake in there. But my "self fabricated" wrench did the trick 1/8th of a turn at a time.

Ahhh, gotcha. I just looked at mine and feel like if I take the battery tray out on the driver side and the air box on the passenger it will be fairly easy.
Did you attempt that? Am I missing something?

 

[Offsidewing]

Not really. It doesnt provide any more space needed to work between the frame and the back of the housing. The best leverage point is either thru the wheel well or completely removing the front end.

I'm not a certified mechanic, but I've done a lot of engine, induction, and electrical mods on Focuses (Foci??), Fusions, Lincoln LSE, and Explorers. This was by far the biggest PITA I've come across in 20 years.

 

[ryanO]

Not really. It doesnt provide any more space needed to work between the frame and the back of the housing. The best leverage point is either thru the wheel well or completely removing the front end.

I'm not a certified mechanic, but I've done a lot of engine, induction, and electrical mods on Focuses (Foci??), Fusions, Lincoln LSE, and Explorers. This was by far the biggest PITA I've come across in 20 years.

Geez. Well, now I'm second guessing taking this on. I'm not known as the most patient guy in TX. LOL

 

[ryanO]

Not really. It doesnt provide any more space needed to work between the frame and the back of the housing. The best leverage point is either thru the wheel well or completely removing the front end.

I'm not a certified mechanic, but I've done a lot of engine, induction, and electrical mods on Focuses (Foci??), Fusions, Lincoln LSE, and Explorers. This was by far the biggest PITA I've come across in 20 years.

Its a Torx-15 screw, right?

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