Signature Lux DRL install on a 2024 XLT

[Ron Quixote]

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[Offsidewing]

Its just tedious and there is no quick way to do it. Its not hard. Had I started with what I know now, and using my $3 self fabricated tool first (and maybe a buddy) I could knock this out in under 4 hours.

 

[ryanO]

Its just tedious and there is no quick way to do it. Its not hard. Had I started with what I know now, and using my $3 self fabricated tool first (and maybe a buddy) I could knock this out in under 4 hours.

Good to know. They are Torx 15?

 

[Offsidewing]

Its a Torx-15 screw, right?

Yes. My "tool" that saved the day was a T-15 bit and 1/4" wrench. A 1/4" ratchet wrench would have been more efficient.

 

[ryanO]

Yes. My "tool" that saved the day was a T-15 bit and 1/4" wrench. A 1/4" ratchet wrench would have been more efficient.

Makes sense. I was thinking of getting a flex head ratchet wrench and rhen using hot glue to hold the torx bit in place (fill the wrench with hot glue and push the bit in). Thoughts....

 

[SoulMafia]

Do you think something like this would work?

 

[Offsidewing]

Makes sense. I was thinking of getting a flex head ratchet wrench and rhen using hot glue to hold the torx bit in place (fill the wrench with hot glue and push the bit in). Thoughts....

Yeah, that would work. This is how I rigged up my wrench which is similar to what you are describing. I did a quick wrap around this to bind the tape to itself.

 

[Ron Quixote]

Do you think something like this would work?

Very cool. I didn’t know such a thing was a thing.

 

[Offsidewing]

Do you think something like this would work?

Nope, it sucked. Not enough room to get a good purchase on it - and the screws are barely finger tight. With the horn pulled, I was literally able to pull the bottom screw and fender side screw with a bit driver in seconds. That top inside screw is in a really tight, confined space.

 

[K_teven]

Have watched a number of videos on the install and want to try it when the weather warms up a bit. Anybody have specific recommendations on brand of conversion to use?

 

[XLTRangerRick]

I installed these Amber DRL last night. Not LUX but took a gamble on Amazon. If you believe it, I actually changed them out from under the hood and didn't have to do any fender/tire removal for access underneath. The things that helped were 1) being skinny and having small hands 2) luck that I didn't drop any screws or bits, 3) the tools below from Harbor Freight. The ratcheting screwdriver bit holder was worth every penny. With it I was able to remove all the screws to the point I could take them out with my fingers not to drop them. Used 1 finger on the back to hold it against the screw and the other to ratchet 1 or 2 clicks at a time. As others stated there is NOT alot of room for tools. On the R side (passenger) I removed the horn at the screw to make more room but it wasn't necessary on the L (driver) side. The first one I did was the R and it took me about 45 minutes because of the horn and wasn't sure what I could reach. The L side was faster, about 30 min. I really love the look of them and hope they last. Even if you will tackle this from the wheel well the ratchet will help alot! I tried the 1/4 box wrench and duct tape but it was too hard having to re-align the screw each tiny turn. I only used the thumbwheel ratchet with a 1/4 bit and duct tape for 1 bottom screw on driver side.

Just wanted to tell everyone that it IS possible to replace the boards from above but unless you are a skinny contortionist it's not going to be easy. Good luck to anyone else changing them!!!!

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