Bed tie down bolts snapped and drilled out by topper installer. Any fixes that don't require grinding and welding?

[Captcarbide]

I had a Smartcap installed by a RSI labeled "Pro Builder". The Smartcap uses the the front and rear tie down points and the bolting location for brackets instead of using clamps like other caps. I'm assuming during the removal of the OEM bolts some of the heads snapped off. Their solution was to completely drill out the threaded holes and throw some oversized self tapping bolts in there (see picture of one from inside the tail light). My biggest issue is one of the holes is so mangled they couldn't even get the new bolt in. This one is located on the front so it is difficult to get to the back side to fully assess.

I'm looking for an elegant solution that isn't using a bigger self tapper. Does anyone have any ideas? I'm not sure I trust the installer to fix it. The didn't even use the right bolts for the brackets on the holes that weren't damaged (threw SAE 5/16" bolts into the M8 holes).

I'm bringing it back to the installer to have them evaluate, but might have a body shop look at it too to see what they quote me for the repair. I'd like to work it out with the installer though since they were the ones that caused the problem.

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[av8r]

That does not look like a self tapping bolt. It looks like they drilled the factory nut out, misaligned, and then jammed whatever bolt would fit in there. That is some horrible work.

 

[Captcarbide]

That does not look like a self tapping bolt. It looks like they drilled the factory nut out, misaligned, and the jammed whatever bolt would fit in there. That is some horrible work.

It's slightly tapered and has some flutes cut into the first half inch or so. Self tapping might have been generous.

I'm leaning towards taking it to the dealer body shop and getting their input and/or quote to fix it and bringing that to the people who installed it.

I'm kicking myself because I could have done this work but was on a time crunch (wife wanted the bed covered prior to a trip to vermont the next week).

I found the OEM weld nuts online (https://www.buckeyefasteners.com/nuts/weld-nuts/hex-flanged-weld-nuts/3-projection-hex-flanged-weld-nuts-gm-series/m8-1-25-hex-flange-weld-nut-zinc-bf%2011588323--p15) but I'm not sure how they get installed or if the bed liner would get damaged during the process.

 

[Ron Quixote]

That’s some bullshit right there. Be calm, polite, and firm until they make it right.

 

[Captcarbide]

That’s some bullshit right there. Be calm, polite, and firm until they make it right.

That's what I plan on doing. I won't be able to get there until Wednesday so there's some cooling off period.

Now I just need to find out what making it right looks like.

 

[donkey]

This situation sucks. I recommend anyone needing to get these bolts off to use an induction heater themselves, nobody else will have the patience.

Honestly if it’s in there, out of sight, out of mind. You could get a quote to repair it and the show them the quote, and say thats exactly how much you want off for their mistake.

Another idea is a threaded insert after retapping the whole, or a rivnut.

 

[av8r]

That's what I plan on doing. I won't be able to get there until Wednesday so there's some cooling off period.

Now I just need to find out what making it right looks like.

You could just run a nut onto the end of the bolt to secure it (use a washer also) and see if you can get the installed to kick you back some or all of the install fee since their installer screwed it up. Use the money for fuel since these things really like fuel.

 

[Captcarbide]

You could just run a nut onto the end of the bolt to secure it (use a washer also) and see if you can get the installed to kick you back some or all of the install fee since their installer screwed it up. Use the money for fuel since these things really like fuel.

That's not bad idea for this one. It's the 3 in the front that are also like this that I'm worried about. Would have to get way up in the fender.

 

[Captcarbide]

This situation sucks. I recommend anyone needing to get these bolts off to use an induction heater themselves, nobody else will have the patience.

Honestly if it’s in there, out of sight, out of mind. You could get a quote to repair it and the show them the quote, and say thats exactly how much you want off for their mistake.

Another idea is a threaded insert after retapping the whole, or a rivnut.

I saw someone recommend one of the hand held induction heaters. Unfortunately too late for that now.

I was thinking rivnut for this one as this weld nut could be cut off. There 2 in the front that were done like this and one that the messed up so bad they didn't even put a bolt in. Seeing the missing bolt is what sent me down this rabbit hole to begin with.

 

[donkey]

Oh dude I would get a quote to repair all of it like OEM, then have them make it right. This isn’t an easy fix. They should have called you the second it happened to discuss the options on removing the bolts.

 

[Captcarbide]

Oh dude I would get a quote to repair all of it like OEM, then have them make it right. This isn’t an easy fix. They should have called you the second it happened to discuss the options on removing the bolts.

Brought it to the Ford body shop. They were even wowed. Back to OEM is probably too invasive. Welding, paint, and bedliner would be a lot of work. They actually suggested rivnuts. At least for the real bad one. I'll see what the cap installer wants to do to fix it and go from there.

I was thinking close to OEM would be to drill out the nut and weld in a threaded insert. That would require touching up the spray in bed liner. I'm not how well the spray in touches up.

 

[purdyd]

I can imagine jb weld epoxy to fill the hole and retapping to m8

 

[Captcarbide]

I can imagine jb weld epoxy to fill the hole and retapping to m8

Good idea. I'd have to see if i can get a hand up the fender to tape off the back of the nut on the front one. I'm not too worried about pull out as this is mostly a sheer load.

I'm ready to just drill it out and weld in a threaded bung myself. hardest part would be rust protection for the back side in the fender. I'd have to take it somewhere to get the bed liner patched too.

 

[ShadowDragon24]

Brought it to the Ford body shop. They were even wowed. Back to OEM is probably too invasive. Welding, paint, and bedliner would be a lot of work. They actually suggested rivnuts. At least for the real bad one. I'll see what the cap installer wants to do to fix it and go from there.

I was thinking close to OEM would be to drill out the nut and weld in a threaded insert. That would require touching up the spray in bed liner. I'm not how well the spray in touches up.

Too invasive, and costly? Sounds like an issue for the upfitters insurance to pay for the fuck up, not yours. You want OEM equivalent repair for the rated weight of the tiedowns. I'd demand them to put it in writing that they guarantee the repair meets fords rated weight capacity for the bed tie down point, and if they wont. Pay for OEM repair.

 

[superj]

holy cow!!! that is crazy that they did that and thought it was acceptable and you wouldn't notice. thats amazingly terrible work.

they need to take your truck back to original specs or someone from some type of law office needs to step in. i would be so mad if i came out to that i would have had to be away from some cooling off time too.

god dang thats bad

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