CVFab 24 Ranger 2.3L intercooler/charge pipes overview and install

[ATestBishop]

Intro- I'll be sharing my thoughts and install of the CVF 24 Ranger 2.3L intercooler and charge pipes on my modded 2024 XL/STX Ranger. Relevant photos are attached in chronological order for reference, this is a general overview guide of my install and thoughts of the upgraded CVF parts. The common/basic tools I used are shown for example. Please use whatever safety measures your comfortable with to work. That said the install of these parts is basic and straightforward. I took my time with it and enjoyed the process, I feel that usually works out best for me. I'll include my referral link to the CFV website for the parts (link does help me out if used) and code ALEXGOMES for 5% off order, or I will update better codes below as I see them- https://www.cvfab.com/?ref=gzmahqkk

Unboxing/first impressions- The CVF parts arrived with fast UPS shipping and very well boxed and packaged with ample padding and parts were wrapped and bagged, they even included a decal which is always welcome. All included parts look great with top quality fit and finish, I went with the black IC finish to match the charge pipes and I'm glad I did. These parts feel and look durable and built to last.

Relevant existing mods- I have the RC shackle conversion kit, a lower bumper grill mesh guard, and deleted splash guards/air dam

Install part 1 OEM removal/prep- I started with the removal of all stock parts; both charge pipes, intercooler brackets, intercooler and active grill shutters. I witness marked any joints in OEM pipes that I separated with silver sharpie for reference. Removing a joint on each pipe helped me remove the pipes and disconnecting the OEM pipes was simple, just know that various clips and connectors Ford uses can be stubborn and take your time with them. The intercooler held itself up by upper grommets after both lower brackets were unbolted and was very simple to lower down myself. Lastly the AGS assembly attaches with 2 bolts at top with blind access and takes some time to remove due to the cramped access, this was the most time consuming step. I disconnected the AGS wire harness and bagged and tied it cleanly as shown. You might want to glue down the "clip nuts" that the AGS bolts use if your trying to eliminate any possible noise but that's probably over doing it. Overall it was quite simple and basic and I was left with plenty of room to work with the new parts! Typically I like to clean/inspect and dry fit/reassemble all stock parts/assemblies and bag them up. I also bag/cover open components still in engine bay for temporary protection.

Install part 2 CVF Assembly/mounting- I started by prepping the new IC with installing the 4 factory rubber isolators and both new locking pipe collars with the included inner collar o-rings installed, using the OEM spring retainers to secure. Use care when fitting collars so the o-rings are not damaged. I was able to lift the prepped IC myself and aligned top isolators and then get the lower brackets started, one bolt per bracket and the IC is in and looks great. Prep for charge pipes was I added thread seal tape to both the water/meth bung set screws and tightened them down snug. I started with the shorter cold side pipe, starting from top down and waited till all sections were assembled securely and aligned before aligning and tightening clamps, the fit is awesome. I did add grease before tightening the included stainless bolt included for one of the sensors as it's threading into aluminum. The second sensor snapped on easily and cold side was finished. For longer hot side pipe I near fully seated and aligned the top elbow to charge pipe first to help me with access and fitment and worked down to finish aligning all connections. I used the factory bracket bolt thru the very robust mounting tab on pipe to secure the hot side charge pipe and then double checked all sections before aligning and tightening clamps, both charge pipes mounted solid and secure. The last step for me was attaching the factory diverter back on with the 3 included stainless bolts that I greased and securing the factory wire to new attachment point with a tie. LOOKING GOOD!

Testing-Startup and test drive was very smooth and no CEL appeared from the AGS removal, afterwards checked all fasteners and everything was secure. Being that outdoor temps are climbing here during summer I'm glad I made the upgrade. After the engine is past the break in mileage I'll be further testing performance. Overall I'm happy with the results!

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[DutchRanger]

Do you have a link to the mesh guard?

 

[Nuke]

3 heat cycles is break in for an engine...ijs

 

[ATestBishop]

I was referring to the break in mileage specified in the Ford manual

 

[boconnor116]

Did you have to remove any part of the front end in order to take the AGS out? Or did you just remove the skid plate to get access?

 

[hand-filer]

I was referring to the break in mileage specified in the Ford manual

Your truck is a '24. How could it not be broken in yet?

 

[ATestBishop]

Yes I removed some front end to remove AGS, just keep track of the fasteners and how clips release from the back access and it's not bad, I got a deal on a left over 24 in 25 so at the time it was very low mileage

 

[boconnor116]

Yes I removed some front end to remove AGS, just keep track of the fasteners and how clips release from the back access and it's not bad, I got a deal on a left over 24 in 25 so at the time it was very low mileage

Any tips on what to remove and how to remove it? You had to go through the fender liners?

 

[ATestBishop]

During the process I think I did remove fender liners but there was other modifications going on in the front end at that time. I remember starting at the top inside the engine bay with the plastic cover and working downward. Basically the only real struggle was trying to completely remove bumper because there are a couple unknown fasteners in unknown, concealed locations that make it difficult. But fortunately that's not needed for the install of all above parts

 

[ATestBishop]

I didn't log step by step for the removal process but I did watch reference videos prior and that did help guide me through the process

 

[superj]

I didn't log step by step for the removal process but I did watch reference videos prior and that did help guide me through the process

so how has this mod been? was the difference in the plastic stock pipes versus the new pipes substantial enough you could tell it with the naked eye? i know their intercoolers are big enough to tell because we did one of their IC on my son's focus st and it was a good deal larger.

these re not terribly expensive so if the change is noticeable in cooling and performance, i may get these. i feel like i am running out of things to do since there is not a lot of 2.3 stuff available on our 24 models

 

[ATestBishop]

I got a deal so it's hard to judge value, just be aware that the way it designed to bolt on BOV is not identical seat to seat, at least it's less space so you can shim with thicker gasket though. The gave basically no customer service so just be aware. Quality wise, yes better than stock but I'm just past break in miles so I'm ready to push it to limit now, can update

 

[Grenzer]

I didn't log step by step for the removal process but I did watch reference videos prior and that did help guide me through the process

I'm working on this installation right now. I saw some videos saying the AGS motor need to be retained in order to keep any CELs away. Did you remove the AGS motor from the AGS itself and zip tie it out of the way, or did you just leave the whole assembly unplugged? Thanks in advance.

Any tips on what to remove and how to remove it? You had to go through the fender liners?

For what it's worth, I was able to get to the intercooler and remove the AGS by only removing the skid plate and recovery hook mounts, or basically just everything I needed to remove to get to the intercooler. Those two bolts on top of the AGS were a pain like OP mentioned, but I had my truck up on ramps and was able to sit up under my truck in order to get a ratchet with socket on the bolts and get them out.

 

[ATestBishop]

So i'n my case I decided to just remove the whole ags assembly as a unit and I wrapped and secured the bare harness to where I could get to it if I needed to attach bare motor. No CEL but yes a trouble code will be stored in the computer history because it knows the motor is not attached, it makes no difference but it knows. Now an electrical engineer could probably just bridge a resistor in the harness to simulate the motor being there but I was not going to keep the "dead" motor attached. I did search around for what to do first, hopefully that helps..

 

[Grenzer]

So i'n my case I decided to just remove the whole ags assembly as a unit and I wrapped and secured the bare harness to where I could get to it if I needed to attach bare motor. No CEL but yes a trouble code will be stored in the computer history because it knows the motor is not attached, it makes no difference but it knows. Now an electrical engineer could probably just bridge a resistor in the harness to simulate the motor being there but I was not going to keep the "dead" motor attached. I did search around for what to do first, hopefully that helps..

Thank you! That does help. I did end up keeping the motor attached to the harness and got both somewhat up out of the way, but good to know it will not throw a visible error code if I later want to remove the motor. The bracket included with the intercooler looks like it would be a good spot to reattach the motor to, but none of the holes line up with the ones on the Ranger AGS bracket and I didn't feel like drilling any new ones. From the Bronco install videos it looks like the bracket works for them but not the Ranger.

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