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2025 Ranger 6G - 4-Wheel Flat Towing behind RVs - YES!
songkajai
Well-Known Member
ON the base plate: They cut these stupid rigged pipe spacers to lower the bracket. This is really stupid and they did it because of the extra reinforcement on the frame. They should have just cut them back a little to fit and mount them higher, oh well.
The spacers are 3/16" so you need to make a 3/16" spacer plate as shown. The pipe spacers severally reduce strength, allow them to rock and were into the frame rail. This is also the main resigns for the side plates that go around the frame to support the rocking action. They don't do much for shear support. MOst of the stuff they tell you to take apart is to slightly inlarge the bolt that goes through the frame half way up. A bad spot and area that has no real support, the bolt would just rip through the unsupported frame. the bolts can be down sized to a 8 grade 3/8" bolt vs the 7/16" they provide. If not enlarging that hole, no need to take anything apart other than the skid plate.
The spacers are 3/16" so you need to make a 3/16" spacer plate as shown. The pipe spacers severally reduce strength, allow them to rock and were into the frame rail. This is also the main resigns for the side plates that go around the frame to support the rocking action. They don't do much for shear support. MOst of the stuff they tell you to take apart is to slightly inlarge the bolt that goes through the frame half way up. A bad spot and area that has no real support, the bolt would just rip through the unsupported frame. the bolts can be down sized to a 8 grade 3/8" bolt vs the 7/16" they provide. If not enlarging that hole, no need to take anything apart other than the skid plate.
unsavory
Active Member
Thank you for feedback
Im racing to get this done and exhaustive /lack of sleep speed to get on road by aug 1. Still need to find time and energy to wire up dc-dc charger, sitting in box since 2024..
1. I might just have San Diego trailer supply order and install the parts, support local biz, they do a lot of tow bar installs. Calling them tmrw morn w list and slightly more informed
3. Yes, plug in play is a huge win. Was dreading cutting wires behind the tail lights. They make temp magnetic ones that go on roof too
I have the red coil 7 pin to 6 pin, but I left the 6pin towed vehicle socket, breakaway switch, baseplates, roadmaster charge line piece, remote batt disconnect and stay n play controller in my colorado when i sold it
4. I like the blue ox because it has a one way low volt cutoff feature. The roadmaster one is just a resettable breaker and 2 way. Have already drained the battery on my ram flatbed leaving it connected to truck camper, have since disabled the charge wire in my truck camper (disconnected internal breaker). Rams leave the 7pin charge wire constant hot. Dont want to have to plug/ unplug each time
5. Thanks hadn't dug into "what's included in the box" for patriot yet
6. Not a fan of anything that needs manual recharge, another maintenance item
7. Helpful to make sure it's charging, cheap insurance
I left everything that was installed on towed vehicle when I sold it, so will need to figure out parts related the shutter bolt thing
Im racing to get this done and exhaustive /lack of sleep speed to get on road by aug 1. Still need to find time and energy to wire up dc-dc charger, sitting in box since 2024..
1. I might just have San Diego trailer supply order and install the parts, support local biz, they do a lot of tow bar installs. Calling them tmrw morn w list and slightly more informed
3. Yes, plug in play is a huge win. Was dreading cutting wires behind the tail lights. They make temp magnetic ones that go on roof too
I have the red coil 7 pin to 6 pin, but I left the 6pin towed vehicle socket, breakaway switch, baseplates, roadmaster charge line piece, remote batt disconnect and stay n play controller in my colorado when i sold it
4. I like the blue ox because it has a one way low volt cutoff feature. The roadmaster one is just a resettable breaker and 2 way. Have already drained the battery on my ram flatbed leaving it connected to truck camper, have since disabled the charge wire in my truck camper (disconnected internal breaker). Rams leave the 7pin charge wire constant hot. Dont want to have to plug/ unplug each time
5. Thanks hadn't dug into "what's included in the box" for patriot yet
6. Not a fan of anything that needs manual recharge, another maintenance item
7. Helpful to make sure it's charging, cheap insurance
I left everything that was installed on towed vehicle when I sold it, so will need to figure out parts related the shutter bolt thing
songkajai
Well-Known Member
The new bracket has the support for the intercooler round rubber support. Then a small hole that was for the shutters. The new one just has a clearance hole and bolt included in the hardware of the base plate.
Found this picture that shows the bracket holes from the original tow hook and is same with the new base plate:
Found this picture that shows the bracket holes from the original tow hook and is same with the new base plate:
Wetsib
Member
Songkajai-looks like you recommend the Curt 52103 towed-vehicle wiring harness. Curt doesn’t show this fits the 2025 ranger (with tow package), so wanting to confirm with you that it does indeed fit.
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songkajai
Well-Known Member
Yes, the 52103 ( listed as F150) fits the ranger Raptor. Another guy has used it on a Lariat as well. The one listed for Ranger is wrong. I show the pinout for the ranger and 150 here and over on Amazon, with notes in the reviews.
Just came back from a 1000mile trip with it.
Just came back from a 1000mile trip with it.
songkajai
Well-Known Member
Also it plugs in on each side under the bed just above the tailpipe, below the taillight. Don't bother taking out a taillight as it is all molded together, nothing to see.
The wiring to down under the bed is around 10 tiny black wires. Good luck if you do like they say and use a universal kit!
The drawing below is the F150. The ranger does not use the ground on pin 3.
When you run the Curt harness run on the driver side following the factory wire. Their is a good ground point on the frame just in front of the spare tires. Inside the frame rail as I recall!
The wiring to down under the bed is around 10 tiny black wires. Good luck if you do like they say and use a universal kit!
The drawing below is the F150. The ranger does not use the ground on pin 3.
When you run the Curt harness run on the driver side following the factory wire. Their is a good ground point on the frame just in front of the spare tires. Inside the frame rail as I recall!
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unsavory
Active Member
I had my setup installed and drove from San Diego to Telluride, CO where I am now. I used the curt plug n play (no disassemble tail light splicing diodes) brake wire adapter as reccd by another member
There are no one way diodes, so when the ranger brake (or head or parking lights) are power the truck campers lights illuminate too. Not really an issue as long as it doesn't damage the tow vehicles electrical
I also have a curt hitch 34" extension trimmed to 19" and mildly fabbed to clear the truck camper steps
Roadmaster nighthawk tow bar and Roadmaster quick release baseplates
Using Blue ox Patriot and Blue ox charge line adapter
I also have a roadmaster rock screen mesh product that attaches to the tow bar. Can see it rolled up in last pic, it unrolls, attaches to baseplate about 6x3' opened up
There are no one way diodes, so when the ranger brake (or head or parking lights) are power the truck campers lights illuminate too. Not really an issue as long as it doesn't damage the tow vehicles electrical
I also have a curt hitch 34" extension trimmed to 19" and mildly fabbed to clear the truck camper steps
Roadmaster nighthawk tow bar and Roadmaster quick release baseplates
Using Blue ox Patriot and Blue ox charge line adapter
I also have a roadmaster rock screen mesh product that attaches to the tow bar. Can see it rolled up in last pic, it unrolls, attaches to baseplate about 6x3' opened up
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RoughRider
Member
What was the baseplate price direct from Roadmaster? It is weird they don't just list them.WE are using the 2025 Ford Ranger Blue Ox Patriot Portable Flat Tow Brake System - Proportional
Also Had a hell of a time with Blue Ox and the base plate. EEtrailer was also not helpful. Landed up calling Roadmaster and they had 30+ in stock and sent out the same day.
The Nighthawk is by far the best tow bar to go with as it is so tightly and neat.
We have every thing up and working for 500miles now.
The outlet in the truck does time out. Could have added an outlet but the brake controller only used 8watts so just use a little 292watt battery pack. With coupons about $65 ( Amazon.com: Newsmy Portable Solar Power Station 270Wh/72000mAh, 268W Max Output, 2×100W USB-C PD, LiMnFePO4 Battery with Spotlight for Hiking, Traveling & Emergency, Drone Charging, Compact Power Stations : Patio, Lawn & Garden )
About the Roadmaster base plate install. "IT IS A MESS"
If you go with this plate, ask for some ideas as trying to install as they show is by far not OK!
Put it this way, had to remake some minor parts. Now it is much stronger and had to remove nothing from the truck other than the Bash Plate!
songkajai
Well-Known Member
It was more than Entailer, I had to buy the QD's as well purchased the tow bar (roadmaster/nighthawk) bought it for Blue Ox.
I still have the Blue Ox Parts.
The base plate itself as I recall was around $550.
Etrailer drug there ass and was giving a run around saying weeks, months and keep extending it. Then said the roadmaster would be a month or so. Called Roadmaster and they shipped the same day.
With the extra parts to covert the tow bar it was close to $700 but did not care at that point!
Also the girl at Roadmaster was so much better and knew what she was talking about! 10 min or less it was a done deal as she knew the parts off the top of her head. Shipped the same day and had 3 days latter!
I still have the Blue Ox Parts.
The base plate itself as I recall was around $550.
Etrailer drug there ass and was giving a run around saying weeks, months and keep extending it. Then said the roadmaster would be a month or so. Called Roadmaster and they shipped the same day.
With the extra parts to covert the tow bar it was close to $700 but did not care at that point!
Also the girl at Roadmaster was so much better and knew what she was talking about! 10 min or less it was a done deal as she knew the parts off the top of her head. Shipped the same day and had 3 days latter!
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songkajai
Well-Known Member
The battery bank I mentioned earlier work out great, over 20 hours of use never charged it and still completely full!
Wetsib
Member
Songkaji-
I installed the Curt wiring harness to my Ranger Lariat. While the brake lights and turn signals worked as they should, the driving lights do not. The driving lights facing the rear do not illuminate, however the driving lights on the side do illuminate. Any suggestions?
I installed the Curt wiring harness to my Ranger Lariat. While the brake lights and turn signals worked as they should, the driving lights do not. The driving lights facing the rear do not illuminate, however the driving lights on the side do illuminate. Any suggestions?
songkajai
Well-Known Member
Interesting, I use on a Raptor.
Above has another guy with a Lariat, his seem to work. He might have a comment.
Might want to look closely as we did notice a difference that is noted in these threads.
When the trucks driving lights are on, both the top and bottom C work on the taillights. With the wiring harness it seems only the top C works. Checked it at night and seems plenty of light so have not worried about it.
Not a lot of night driving anyway.
But do have a couple of ways to deal with it in a situation you want both top and bottom C are on on.
Just turn on the driving lights in the truck. They are all LED and will take little power, If you have charge, should not be a big deal at all. Or the app will send you a warning if the battery gets low.
Since the harness now makes a point that you could cut wires without damage to the truck wires you can find the correct wire for the bottom C and power that with the wire that is for driving lights ( brown wire)
Above has another guy with a Lariat, his seem to work. He might have a comment.
Might want to look closely as we did notice a difference that is noted in these threads.
When the trucks driving lights are on, both the top and bottom C work on the taillights. With the wiring harness it seems only the top C works. Checked it at night and seems plenty of light so have not worried about it.
Not a lot of night driving anyway.
But do have a couple of ways to deal with it in a situation you want both top and bottom C are on on.
Just turn on the driving lights in the truck. They are all LED and will take little power, If you have charge, should not be a big deal at all. Or the app will send you a warning if the battery gets low.
Since the harness now makes a point that you could cut wires without damage to the truck wires you can find the correct wire for the bottom C and power that with the wire that is for driving lights ( brown wire)
songkajai
Well-Known Member
Reading your post again. It seems as if the diodes are wrong in the Curt Harness. The taillights should be on but not the marker lights.
This means the output is blocking the taillight and sending power back in to the truck.
That sucks but the diodes are wrapped up in the wire loon just towards the taillight connections. I would expect it is on the driver side for the brown wire. Have to find they diode on the brown wire, the diode should be going to the truck connector. Not the connector going to the taillight . Check it with a multi meter before cutting it out. The other option would be cut the corresponding wires to the in/out side of the connectors and reverse them at that point!
Sure taking it out for a replacement is also a B###h so up up to you how to deal with it!
The diode looks kind of like this, the ring/marked side is the output.
If you take it apart and find the issue, take some pictures and post here for others that might run into the same issue
This means the output is blocking the taillight and sending power back in to the truck.
That sucks but the diodes are wrapped up in the wire loon just towards the taillight connections. I would expect it is on the driver side for the brown wire. Have to find they diode on the brown wire, the diode should be going to the truck connector. Not the connector going to the taillight . Check it with a multi meter before cutting it out. The other option would be cut the corresponding wires to the in/out side of the connectors and reverse them at that point!
Sure taking it out for a replacement is also a B###h so up up to you how to deal with it!
The diode looks kind of like this, the ring/marked side is the output.
If you take it apart and find the issue, take some pictures and post here for others that might run into the same issue
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songkajai
Well-Known Member
PS: when I was first looking for wire harnesses, found quit a few complaints about this sort of thing with other Curt harness. They are assembled in Mexico as I recall.
Should probably mention several people suggested plugging them in first before installing in the vehicle to be sure they have no issues!
Guess I should have put that at the top of the post, me bad.... Really did forget about that as it was over a year ago!
Another thing I forgot about was the confusion when opening a door with it plugged in. In this case all the marker lights turn on. Have to close the door and wait for that to turn off before checking, it will confuse you!
Think you can turn that off in the settings as well!
Should probably mention several people suggested plugging them in first before installing in the vehicle to be sure they have no issues!
Guess I should have put that at the top of the post, me bad.... Really did forget about that as it was over a year ago!
Another thing I forgot about was the confusion when opening a door with it plugged in. In this case all the marker lights turn on. Have to close the door and wait for that to turn off before checking, it will confuse you!
Think you can turn that off in the settings as well!
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