Anyone change the oil in their 2.7L V6 yet?

[BriSco]

Tomorrow mine will turn 500 miles and will get an oil change.
I'll get to see how much of a pain in the ass the canister oil filter is.

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[FreezingFlatlander]

I had the canister type oil filter on the 2.7 in an F150 and it sure beat having to crawl underneath the vehicle, I had no complaints. As I remember it took a 27mm socket to turn the canister housing. There was never any oil spill when removing the filter. There will be two o-rings in the box along with the new filter so the old o-rings need to be removed, then the new ones slid on. Check out the YouTube videos.

 

[1986YellowRanger]

Tomorrow mine will turn 500 miles and will get an oil change.
I'll get to see how much of a pain in the ass the canister oil filter is.

Just did it this evening… Not too bad other than a wire harness routed almost directly under where the drain plug will drip. I took a piece of Saran Wrap (roughly two feet long) and covered it by wrapping the Saran Wrap around the frame and harness. You’ll see what I mean once you get under there… The canister oil filter is super convenient, I love it. Don’t be surprised if the replacement filter doesn’t look exactly the same. They use a filter with plastic end caps at the factory, but the replacements don’t have those plastic pieces. Also, remember that you don’t have to totally remove the bolts holding the front bash plate, just loosen the back two on that plate and you can slide out the bash plate under the engine.

 

[EasternKS]

Changed mine a week ago at 600 miles, here's how it went... I have an FX4 Lariat 2.7, so skid plates. On the engine skid plate, really only need to loosen the front two bolts and remove back two. On the oil pan, you'll remove the plastic yellow plug, but before you do, you may want to wrap a piece of plastic around the cross member and wire harness that is just inches away to the rear the oil pan. It will get soaked if you don't. About a 2ft section of a plastic bag worked for me. Once you twist then pull the yellow oil pan plug (came out easily enough) the 6 qts of oil shot out maybe a foot the first few seconds, so be sure you have large catch pan. As the oil drains, you can use a 27mm socket to remove the oil filter housing up top. (If you have the truck on ramps like I did, you may need a step ladder to get to the filter!) Filter location is very convenient being on top of engine. You certainly could use a wrench instead of socket, but the socket made it simple. Removing the filter ( Ford FL2062A) and O rings is easy enough. Putting on the two large replacement O rings is no sweat. The small O ring is another story, and you should be prepared to make use of some of your favorite cuss words. I used a small flat blade screwdriver to pop it over the top of the plastic piece it goes on. (Got this technique off a You Tube video) With new O rings installed, firmly pushing the filter to seat down in the hole it came out of is also easy enough. Place housing over filter and turn plastic housing until good contact is made at base. Spec is to tighten to 18 ft lb (24nm) but once solid contact is made I stopped. Have inspected a couple times and all good. I cleaned and reused the yellow oil pan plug which I read is not uncommon, I'll replace next time. Added 6 quarts of 5w30 that meets spec WSS-M2C961-A1. ( I use Mobil 1)
Then remember to reset oil life... On right side of your steering wheel, use Menu button go to last item in the list... Vehicle Maintenence>Oil Life> Press OK to Reset Oil Life. Hope this helps.

Watching a video on YouTube is also recommended, I think I searched on something like "Ford 2.7 Oil change".

 

[1986YellowRanger]

Also, a 27 mm socket is a bit rare, but you may have a 1 1/16 at the house that will work. I can't remember the size for the bash plate removal, but that was a normal size metric so you probably have that.

 

[ADVNTURR]

I haven't yet since I'm not even at 1000mi, but I'm planning on using my oil extractor like I do on my other cartridge filter vehicles and just sucking it out the dipstick tube (although I may do traditional drain for the first one). The extractor is just so clean and easy when you're not dealing with a spin-on filter and I typically also suck the oil out of the cartridge cavity.

 

[Stu x 4]

605.8 today. Found/I used Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w30 with Ford spec WSS-M2C961-A1 on bottle label. Motorcraft FL2062A filter.

Had some specs of metal (typical) in filter for new build; sent oil to Blackstone for analysis. Probably do this for a first few changes to make sure no undue wear and using new full synthetic oil for analysis.

Found the oil canister socket at Lowes, ½ inch drive for my torque wrench – 18lb. Found the gasket rings on oil canister easy…top/small one took me a few tries.

What are your thoughts on 2nd change interval?

 

[Stu x 4]

Changed mine a week ago at 600 miles, here's how it went... I have an FX4 Lariat 2.7, so skid plates. On the engine skid plate, really only need to loosen the front two bolts and remove back two. On the oil pan, you'll remove the plastic yellow plug, but before you do, you may want to wrap a piece of plastic around the cross member and wire harness that is just inches away to the rear the oil pan. It will get soaked if you don't. About a 2ft section of a plastic bag worked for me. Once you twist then pull the yellow oil pan plug (came out easily enough) the 6 qts of oil shot out maybe a foot the first few seconds, so be sure you have large catch pan. As the oil drains, you can use a 27mm socket to remove the oil filter housing up top. (If you have the truck on ramps like I did, you may need a step ladder to get to the filter!) Filter location is very convenient being on top of engine. You certainly could use a wrench instead of socket, but the socket made it simple. Removing the filter ( Ford FL2062A) and O rings is easy enough. Putting on the two large replacement O rings is no sweat. The small O ring is another story, and you should be prepared to make use of some of your favorite cuss words. I used a small flat blade screwdriver to pop it over the top of the plastic piece it goes on. (Got this technique off a You Tube video) With new O rings installed, firmly pushing the filter to seat down in the hole it came out of is also easy enough. Place housing over filter and turn plastic housing until good contact is made at base. Spec is to tighten to 18 ft lb (24nm) but once solid contact is made I stopped. Have inspected a couple times and all good. I cleaned and reused the yellow oil pan plug which I read is not uncommon, I'll replace next time. Added 6 quarts of 5w30 that meets spec WSS-M2C961-A1. ( I use Mobil 1)
Then remember to reset oil life... On right side of your steering wheel, use Menu button go to last item in the list... Vehicle Maintenence>Oil Life> Press OK to Reset Oil Life. Hope this helps.

Watching a video on YouTube is also recommended, I think I searched on something like "Ford 2.7 Oil change".

Prime the engine
Press brake pedal, gas pedal to the floor, press start and engine turns without starting. 10 seconds. Then start, check for leaks...then I put the skid plate back on, reset oil life.

 

[Stu x 4]

I just like a check list to keep me on task.

2024 Ford Ranger – 2.7L Twin Turbo

My Oil Change Check List – Always follow your owner’s manual

27mm and 15mm socket, clean large funnel, large oil catch pan, flashlight, safety glasses, rubber gloves, shop towels and trash liner.

SAE 5w-30 motor oil, Ford spec WSS-M2C961-A1, API SP and Motorcraft oil filter FL2062A – Keep your warranty intact.

Be Kind – recycle your old oil if you can

• Heat up engine to help oil drain (go for after change beer)
• Let sit for gravity to work oil down
• Block tires if using ramps – makes getting under much easier
• Take off filter cap to help oil drain
• Wipe off
• Lubricate gasket with new oil
• Pull up dipstick for air
• Remove oil filter cap/filter for air
• Set aside on clean shop towel
• Remove skid plate
• Remove back two bolts
• Losen the front two bolts
• Set aside
• Drain oil fully
• Remove and install new “O” rings on filter cap
• Lubricate new rings with clean oil
• Use flashlight to check for debris in oil canister/filter receptacle
• Insert new filter and hand tighten
• Torque to 18 Lb
• Do not over tighten
• Seat dipstick
• Lubricate oil plug “O” ring and replace
• Single click
• Plastic plug, may want to replace every few changes
• Use OEM – keep warranty intact
• Add 6 quarts oil
• Check oil level using dip stick
• Check for leaks
• Prime engine
• Press brake pedal, gas pedal to floor, press start
• Engine will turn but not start (no load)
• Check for leaks
• Start engine
• Check for leaks/filter area too
• Turn off engine
• Replace skid plate
• Reset oil life monitor using steering wheel controls

 

[BriSco]

OK, thanks everyone. Changed it today at 500 miles. Canister filter was no issue. BUT the volume of oil due to that large drain plug was startling. All done. Easy peasy. Used Motorcraft 5W30 and Motorcraft filter for this change.
Next I'll do it again at 5000 miles.

 

[CandianRanger]

OK, thanks everyone. Changed it today at 500 miles. Canister filter was no issue. BUT the volume of oil due to that large drain plug was startling. All done. Easy peasy. Used Motorcraft 5W30 and Motorcraft filter for this change.
Next I'll do it again at 5000 miles.

5000k would be a good time to change your diffs & transfer case fluids too. I waited too long at 20k on my '19 Ranger. All three were FULL of metal particles, so much so that the magnets on the drain plugs weren't collecting any more.

 

[BriSco]

What are your thoughts on 2nd change interval?

Some like to do a second at 1-1.5k miles. I've always done the second at my regular change interval. My past new vehicles (GM) have gone over 200k miles with no issues.

Since you're doing oil analysis, I'd go by their reccomendation. I was surprised by the color (dark) of my oil at 500 miles though. I may reconsider.

 

[TPNTexas]

Just did it this evening… Not too bad other than a wire harness routed almost directly under where the drain plug will drip. I took a piece of Saran Wrap (roughly two feet long) and covered it by wrapping the Saran Wrap around the frame and harness. You’ll see what I mean once you get under there… The canister oil filter is super convenient, I love it. Don’t be surprised if the replacement filter doesn’t look exactly the same. They use a filter with plastic end caps at the factory, but the replacements don’t have those plastic pieces. Also, remember that you don’t have to totally remove the bolts holding the front bash plate, just loosen the back two on that plate and you can slide out the bash plate under the engine.

Hi - was there enough room for you to remove the skid plate? Or did you have to raise the truck up?

 

[TPNTexas]

OK, thanks everyone. Changed it today at 500 miles. Canister filter was no issue. BUT the volume of oil due to that large drain plug was startling. All done. Easy peasy. Used Motorcraft 5W30 and Motorcraft filter for this change.
Next I'll do it again at 5000 miles.

Hi - did you have to raise the truck or put it on a set of ramp to remove the skid plate?

 

[Jason B]

Also, a 27 mm socket is a bit rare, but you may have a 1 1/16 at the house that will work. I can't remember the size for the bash plate removal, but that was a normal size metric so you probably have that.

Good point, because 27mm equates 1.0629, almost exactly as 1 1/16" at 1.0625.

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