Besides Method wheels what are other good wheel companies???

[jordantii]

You don't like the weight? Do you have the bead lock ones, because the regular wheels are some of the lighter ones I've seen. They weigh less than most Methods.

I have the non bead locks. I just had one replaced and the shipping weight was 45 lbs. I’ll weigh it later today. But it’s not in the 27 lbs range.

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[pablo94sc]

The non-beadlock is around 29lbs without tires.

 

[Lion77]

I think you're probably overthinking this a bit. Lateral loads in a lower-traction truck tire are nowhere near what a sticky sports car tire on a grippy track surface produce.

Also who do you think makes RTR wheels for Vaughn

Not when you come down at 20 or 30 degrees off camber or keep pounding the bump stops on whoops, jumps, hills, pot holes etc. I get that on a track car you have stiff side walls on tires, but the tires are much smaller diameter and lighter, as are the cars, you dont have much impact either as road courses are very smooth comparatively.

Most wheels damage for road cars that ive seen is always impact related from sliding into a wall of tires after pushing too hard in a corner. Ive seen bent rims and spoke damage more in offroad than onroad because the chances of impact are much higher and more frequent. Its burial on suspension, wheels, bearings and structural parts. Also the drivelines take harder hits from constant shock loading.

With track cars 90% of it is heat, tire wear and break pad wear from lapping and sometimes fuel starvation in high G turns, not so much impact damage unless you spin out and hit a tire wall or there's a pothole in the tack thats a hazard. Just my 2 cents.

 

[kickingaz]

I have used Dirty Life wheels on many of my Jeeps and liked them.

 

[Raptor Family]

I was really liking the Japanese Ray’s Volk Racing ZE40x extreme lightweight forging. Size 17”x8.5”, +15 offset—at about 19lbs each. They require hubcentric rings you can buy off Amazon for $30. Shown in picture sized for inside the center cap

They are anodized and not powdercoat/painted. You can’t anodize a cast wheel—and flow form/forge is more of a play on words and a step up from a cast wheel—but not anywhere close to a true forged wheel for strength. The Volks Racing wheels are well known and are the standard by which all others are compared to in the JDM market—they are expensive—real expensive—but about 1/2 the price if you import them directly from Japan. You see them listed for around $1k each from US distributors. You can, however. Directly import them yourself and after air freight, tarriff, etc they are about $650 each—pretty close in price to the OP’s first listed wheel—Titan 7, which are Chinese made forgings.

 

[jordantii]

I was really liking the Japanese Ray’s Volk Racing ZE40x extreme lightweight forging. Size 17”x8.5”, +15 offset—at about 19lbs each. They require hubcentric rings you can buy off Amazon for $30. Shown in picture sized for inside the center cap

They are anodized and not powdercoat/painted. You can’t anodize a cast wheel—and flow form/forge is more of a play on words and a step up from a cast wheel—but not anywhere close to a true forged wheel for strength. The Volks Racing wheels are well known and are the standard by which all others are compared to in the JDM market—they are expensive—real expensive—but about 1/2 the price if you import them directly from Japan. You see them listed for around $1k each from US distributors. You can, however. Directly import them yourself and after air freight, tarriff, etc they are about $650 each—pretty close in price to the OP’s first listed wheel—Titan 7, which are Chinese made forgings.

On sale for 1k each! What a bargain! I have already bent 2 stock wheels and I anticipate more in the future...

 

[Raptor Family]

On sale for 1k each! What a bargain! I have already bent 2 stock wheels and I anticipate more in the future...

Are you trolling us? You began saying you never had an Off-Road truck before, You have stock non-beadlock wheels and do not like the weight of them, and desire knowing what is out there other than Methods. Now, after I recommended a lighter wheel—you tell me you have already bent 2 wheels and anticipate bending more in the future. I think that was an important bit of information that should have been mentioned first. I think you are trolling us. I know this doesn’t translate—but I have a grin on my face. I will play along and try to help if I can.

Stock Ford non-beadlock wheels are pretty light (27-28lbs) compared to other aftermarket wheels—of which almost every one of them will be made in China—as are the factory Ford FORGED Beadlocks, and cast non-beadlocks (the ones you have been bending) that came on our Raptors.

I do not think you need to go to a lighter wheel, if you have already bent 2 cast wheels (those Ford wheels are not to bad), and you expect to bend more.

Maybe you should consider getting an inexpensive set of factory takeoffs-Beadlocks—they are heavy at about 37-38lbs, but they are pretty strong and the cheapest, and the most widely available 6061 forged and heat-treated wheels that can take a lot of punishment for what they are. I have seen sets of 4 sell for as little as $300. Buy a couple of sets and beat them to death.
One thing I don’t know is how you are bending them—are you jumping, peeling tires off the bead, or smashing on rocks? I assume if you are damaging the wheels you are damaging a lot more stuff.

Probably the strongest wheel I know of that fits our trucks (even though a little poke) is a collaboration between Method and Weld 74–yeah, the Portal guys. They make the only forged Method wheel 74w207, I believe there is. This wheel was designed for extreme Dakar racing. That is as strong as they come—and they are not cheap either—but, if you bend one of these, you will probably need more than a new wheel to fix your truck.

Previously, I recommended the lightest and strongest commercially available wheel I know out of(Volks Racing). I also said you can get them cheaper. Way cheaper than $1k per wheel. Go to japanhawk.com —cost per wheel is about $499 last I checked—the size most of us would want (ZE40x)was sold out until the factory retools in a few months.-there are other styles, sizes, TE37x, etc.

If this is something people are interested in, Japan Hawk is in the business to guide you and set up everything you need to Import them yourself using air shipment (the airline becomes the importer and files all paperwork and customs for you) after the wheels arrive at port, you pay the Tariff—finished aluminum items from Japan are 15%. Last time I did this I ordered 6 wheels about $3k +air freight to US port of entry/customs, further shipping to my door (7 days from order) and tariff was $850. That is about $650 a wheel. But, with you bending wheels—I wouldn’t spend for those—it would be nuts. Hope this helps..somebody.
Something important, if you do get aftermarket wheels—make sure you buy new lug nuts. Ford lug nuts will not work and can damage the new wheel and will create a safety issue.

 

[jordantii]

Are you trolling us? You began saying you never had an Off-Road truck before, You have stock non-beadlock wheels and do not like the weight of them, and desire knowing what is out there other than Methods. Now, after I recommended a lighter wheel—you tell me you have already bent 2 wheels and anticipate bending more in the future. I think that was an important bit of information that should have been mentioned first. I think you are trolling us. I know this doesn’t translate—but I have a grin on my face. I will play along and try to help if I can.

Stock Ford non-beadlock wheels are pretty light (27-28lbs) compared to other aftermarket wheels—of which almost every one of them will be made in China—as are the factory Ford FORGED Beadlocks, and cast non-beadlocks (the ones you have been bending) that came on our Raptors.

I do not think you need to go to a lighter wheel, if you have already bent 2 cast wheels (those Ford wheels are not to bad), and you expect to bend more.

Maybe you should consider getting an inexpensive set of factory takeoffs-Beadlocks—they are heavy at about 37-38lbs, but they are pretty strong and the cheapest, and the most widely available 6061 forged and heat-treated wheels that can take a lot of punishment for what they are. I have seen sets of 4 sell for as little as $300. Buy a couple of sets and beat them to death.
One thing I don’t know is how you are bending them—are you jumping, peeling tires off the bead, or smashing on rocks? I assume if you are damaging the wheels you are damaging a lot more stuff.

Probably the strongest wheel I know of that fits our trucks (even though a little poke) is a collaboration between Method and Weld 74–yeah, the Portal guys. They make the only forged Method wheel 74w207, I believe there is. This wheel was designed for extreme Dakar racing. That is as strong as they come—and they are not cheap either—but, if you bend one of these, you will probably need more than a new wheel to fix your truck.

Previously, I recommended the lightest and strongest commercially available wheel I know out of(Volks Racing). I also said you can get them cheaper. Way cheaper than $1k per wheel. Go to japanhawk.com —cost per wheel is about $499 last I checked—the size most of us would want (ZE40x)was sold out until the factory retools in a few months.-there are other styles, sizes, TE37x, etc.

If this is something people are interested in, Japan Hawk is in the business to guide you and set up everything you need to Import them yourself using air shipment (the airline becomes the importer and files all paperwork and customs for you) after the wheels arrive at port, you pay the Tariff—finished aluminum items from Japan are 15%. Last time I did this I ordered 6 wheels about $3k +air freight to US port of entry/customs, further shipping to my door (7 days from order) and tariff was $850. That is about $650 a wheel. But, with you bending wheels—I wouldn’t spend for those—it would be nuts. Hope this helps..somebody.
Something important, if you do get aftermarket wheels—make sure you buy new lug nuts. Ford lug nuts will not work and can damage the new wheel and will create a safety issue.

Touche'. I was not trolling at all. I am very familiar with Volk/Rays and their quality. I come from the performance car/racing world and just lack a ton of info in the truck world. Hence my ask.

The bent wheels came from a trail we run here in FL. There was a sharp ledge that had formed over time that we did not notice. This trail is fairly quick too. It just smacked the shit out of the right side wheels. Was also aired down so that did not help. Bent both and one developed a crack a few months later. Nothing else damaged and I have noted that trail for future runs.

My interest in wheels is in slightly lower offset, strength and weight. I still need to weigh the factory wheel I have but if it is only 27 lbs thats pretty acceptable to me. I want something +35, +25 max.

I was trying to get opinioins on wheel brands that I am not familiar with. Sure I know all the brands in the car world and have had several sets of "high end" custom wheels. Hell the stock wheel on my M2 were crazy light, forged and $$$.

I do appreciate your recommendations and I did not mean to come off like a dick. When I see Methods at 300 per wheel, that's where my mind goes price wise.

 

[Raptor Family]

Touche'. I was not trolling at all. I am very familiar with Volk/Rays and their quality. I come from the performance car/racing world and just lack a ton of info in the truck world. Hence my ask.

The bent wheels came from a trail we run here in FL. There was a sharp ledge that had formed over time that we did not notice. This trail is fairly quick too. It just smacked the shit out of the right side wheels. Was also aired down so that did not help. Bent both and one developed a crack a few months later. Nothing else damaged and I have noted that trail for future runs.

My interest in wheels is in slightly lower offset, strength and weight. I still need to weigh the factory wheel I have but if it is only 27 lbs thats pretty acceptable to me. I want something +35, +25 max.

I was trying to get opinioins on wheel brands that I am not familiar with. Sure I know all the brands in the car world and have had several sets of "high end" custom wheels. Hell the stock wheel on my M2 were crazy light, forged and $$$.

I do appreciate your recommendations and I did not mean to come off like a dick. When I see Methods at 300 per wheel, that's where my mind goes price wise.

I hate to hear about damaging your truck—I cringe when it happens to mine. M2–I was a M3 guy before this truck.
If you are in $300 range, a lot of 21-23 bronco Take-offs have the +35 offset. Maybe what might be better is a set of Methods from Ford Performance that are made for the 21-up Bronco. They are 17”x8.5” and are +35. They come as a set of 5, and have new 5 TPMS sensors and reset device (wrong frequency for newer (our trucks—sell on eBay)). Price is less than $1500. Advantage of buying a Ford/Method branded wheel is that it is hub centric, (the way you are bending them, you probably should be hub centric. When you buy standard Method wheels, they are lug centric or you can put rings in them—it sucks putting rings in them if you don’t have to—tire shops seem to lose them or screw them up on tire machine. The Ford/Methods also have a special Ford Performance cap (5each)(which are unique and cost $65 each)
You can get black or Bronze. These are from 21bronco.com

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