Ford OEM Trailer Hitch wiring question

[Jason B]

The wiring harness comes standard on your truck, it just isn't through the bumper. I just installed a Curt hitch on my new Ranger with the same towing capacity as the factory hitch and it uses the same two bolts on each side. The receiver cost $149.00 vs the $600.00 Ford wants for their hitch.

I installed a Draw Tite receiver, easy peasy. I have only the 4-pin, may install a 7-pin at some time.
I'm happy that, even though I didn't get the truck with any tow package, the Trailer Light Check in the Ford App still works. That makes it easy to verify all lights work before hitting the road.

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[pezdyspensr]

I did not get the Ford 4/7 connector yet, we leave Thursday for our long-haul trip. Once I'm back home I'll order it and install it. From what I've been reading the Ford plug will connect to the Curt plug.

Hey did you ever install the Ford 4/7 onto the Curt harness?

 

[TexasCajun]

I have not installed the 4/7 pin Ford OEM connector yet. I'm still using the Curt 7 pin as of now. My next big haul will be in May so I will have to have it installed by then. I almost ripped the Curt 7 pin off on a trail because it hangs so low. I'm hoping to have the 4/7 by March "I hope".

 

[pezdyspensr]

I have not installed the 4/7 pin Ford OEM connector yet. I'm still using the Curt 7 pin as of now. My next big haul will be in May so I will have to have it installed by then. I almost ripped the Curt 7 pin off on a trail because it hangs so low. I'm hoping to have the 4/7 by March "I hope".

Definitely curious about taking your approach with splicing from the 4 pin to power the Curt harness. Are you the person that left the comment doing this method on etrailer.com?
But I do want to keep 4 pin function and want the look and fit of OEM on the bumper.

 

[TexasCajun]

Definitely curious about taking your approach with splicing from the 4 pin to power the Curt harness. Are you the person that left the comment doing this method on etrailer.com?
But I do want to keep 4 pin function and want the look and fit of OEM on the bumper.

I did leave a comment on etrailer web site, it might have been me. I kept my 4 pin also it's still in place. If you use the Curt 7 pin you still keep the 4 pin also. All I did was take apart the Curt 7 Pin and add those wires into the OEM plug. If you need help let me know.

 

[TexasCajun]

Definitely curious about taking your approach with splicing from the 4 pin to power the Curt harness. Are you the person that left the comment doing this method on etrailer.com?
But I do want to keep 4 pin function and want the look and fit of OEM on the bumper.

Pez

I had to go look under my truck to remember what I did. I forgot, brain is getting old.

To make this work you won't be able to use the 4 pin OEM connector until you install the Ford OEM 4/7. Once you install the OEM 4/7 the 4 pin connector will work. I don't use the 4 pin so it is not something I needed right away, though I still want the 4 pin to work anyway.

And yes, I was the one on E-tailer that left the comment under Harold.

I had to remove the 4 pin OEM harness from the OEM main harness. I cut off the 4 pin and pulled the OEM plug apart so I could get the pins and wires from that plug to put in the Curt plug. I pulled the Curt plug apart then installed the pins from the OEM 4 pin into Curt plug. I then plugged the Curt plug back into the OEM Main harness and that's it. To make the 4 pin work you just need the Ford OEM 4/7 plug that's usually mounted into the bumper.

The 4 pin wiring is in place in the 7 pin connector, once you add the OEM Ford 4/7 the 4 pin will work.

 

[pezdyspensr]

Pez

I had to go look under my truck to remember what I did. I forgot, brain is getting old.

To make this work you won't be able to use the 4 pin OEM connector until you install the Ford OEM 4/7. Once you install the OEM 4/7 the 4 pin connector will work. I don't use the 4 pin so it is not something I needed right away, though I still want the 4 pin to work anyway.

And yes, I was the one on E-tailer that left the comment under Harold.

I had to remove the 4 pin OEM harness from the OEM main harness. I cut off the 4 pin and pulled the OEM plug apart so I could get the pins and wires from that plug to put in the Curt plug. I pulled the Curt plug apart then installed the pins from the OEM 4 pin into Curt plug. I then plugged the Curt plug back into the OEM Main harness and that's it. To make the 4 pin work you just need the Ford OEM 4/7 plug that's usually mounted into the bumper.

The 4 pin wiring is in place in the 7 pin connector, once you add the OEM Ford 4/7 the 4 pin will work.

Thank you! I am going to jump on this and try your method. Seems smarter than running wires to the front when you already have power in the rear. I'll go ahead and grab an OEM 4/7 while I am at it. I may bug you again if I get stumped!

 

[TexasCajun]

I've been chatting with another user and he confirmed the Ford OEM 4/7 will connect to the Curt harness. This is really good news and will allow for the 4 pin to work also. I'm waiting on the part number he has and I will order it and then place it in the rear bumper. It should look like it came from the factory without needing to run wires all over the place.

For the life of me I don't understand why Curt didn't not pin in the 3 wires, it would have been so easy for them.

Here is a picture of how I did my plug. The White wire is the ground wire.

 

[pezdyspensr]

I've been chatting with another user and he confirmed the Ford OEM 4/7 will connect to the Curt harness. This is really good news and will allow for the 4 pin to work also. I'm waiting on the part number he has and I will order it and then place it in the rear bumper. It should look like it came from the factory without needing to run wires all over the place.

For the life of me I don't understand why Curt didn't not pin in the 3 wires, it would have been so easy for them.

Here is a picture of how I did my plug. The White wire is the ground wire.

Oh thanks for this! Visuals are super helpful. It looks here like you spliced every cable inline? So you cut the plug from the 4 pin, took it apart, pinned those wires into the Curt plug, then spliced all cables as well? Sorry to keep at you on this!

 

[TexasCajun]

That's right I cut the plug from the 4 pin and took it apart I pinned those into the Curt plug I'm going to butt connect the red wire once I get the 4/7. I was just being lazy, I will connect it once I install the 4/7, I ordered it from ebay so thanks again for that.

Also, I think I said to just ground the white to the chassis. I pinned it as you can see the white wire is connected.

 

[pezdyspensr]

Great! I assume you were able to confirm that the stock wiring harness that the Curt plugs into already has the blue and red in line? I haven't confirmed yet but mine's a 2024 XL which does not have the stub in the front for a brake controller, which leads me to believe I have less robust wiring overall. If I don't have those wires, it would explain Curt's decision not to pin them all. Ordering, waiting on better weather (Maine) and will update here. I hope I can use your method!

 

[TexasCajun]

I did check all the wires with a voltmeter. The red wire is for reverse which I also checked with my meter. I was not sure what wire was which, so I had to check each one. I got it right the first time thank goodness.

You might be right about the Curt wires not being pinned. I have an XLT so maybe that's why mine had the OEM plug in the cab.

Now the next challenge is how do we cut the bumper to except the 4/7? You have anything on doing this yet? My plug arrived this weekend so I will be installing it in the next couple of weeks so I need a plan on how to make a clean cut.

 

[pezdyspensr]

Oh that's the fun part. Since the bumper is just a plastic veneer and the space for the plug is stamped out in the metal behind it, you can just use the metal as your reference. Get a fine tooth keyhole saw or use a dremel with a rotary cutter, or you could even take a torch to a utility blade and it should cut through the plastic like butter. Then sand or file the cut edge if you like it cleaned up.
Everything is ordered, but I hope I can go your route. I'd rather repin than run wires to the front and splice into wiring bundles. I thought saving a little $$ on that XL was a good idea until I learned about this inferior wiring. Plus I grabbed a leftover 24 early in 25 not even knowing about the outgoing 2.3. Oh well!

 

[TexasCajun]

So the bumper itself has the punch out already there, but the plastic does not?

I know the pinch a penny thing, that is why I did the hitch setup myself. I'm a cheap one so I get that for sure. If I'm financing a truck everything I can do to keep from paying for that over many years is how I will roll. Was it worth all the work put into this? For me yes, I love learning this kind of stuff and a project that keeps me busy.

I have a 2019 Range with the 2.3 and with a tune and charge pipes change, it out pulls the stock 2.7. The 2.7 is so crippled from the factory that it's not as fun to drive as the 2.3. I won't give up the 2.3 it was worth the money it is one of the best Rangers and I've had several of them.

 

[pezdyspensr]

@TexasCajun did you end up getting that OEM 4/7 plug installed? Curious if you got it mated into the bumper nicely!

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