Kicker keylock no power

[Bloody run]

Anybody out there helppppp, trying to hookup the KICKER KEYLOC to my 10 inch Hideaway Sub. I can't get the led light in the KEYLOC to show power, hope I didn't blow it , thanks

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[hand-filer]

Did you order the one that comes with the harness that interfaces with the factory wiring harness?
If so, it gets power from the factory harness. It should power up when you power up the radio.
If not, then its a whole different kettle of fish.
I do know they bench test them before they ship them out.

 

[GrimRR]

If its from SGS, there are 3 wires; yellow to constant power and needs a 2A fuse, blue which is a remote out to trigger your amp, and black for ground. My understanding is that the unit is turned on through a signal from the factory wiring.

If its not from them, my guess is you need a 12v switched source to trigger it on, which I think is the red wire.

I am far from an expert (so take this for what its worth) but I installed mine this past weekend.

 

[Bloody run]

If its from SGS, there are 3 wires; yellow to constant power and needs a 2A fuse, blue which is a remote out to trigger your amp, and black for ground. My understanding is that the unit is turned on through a signal from the factory wiring.

If its not from them, my guess is you need a 12v switched source to trigger it on, which I think is the red wire.

I am far from an expert (so take this for what its worth) but I installed mine this past weekend.

IT is the tuned KEYLOC from SGS with the plug in 3 way harness with a single harness that goes from the 3 way harness to the KEYLOC , l spliced the yellow wire to the consent power wire from the Hideaway sub, ready to take it to get the wiring straightend somewhere

 

[Bloody run]

If its from SGS, there are 3 wires; yellow to constant power and needs a 2A fuse, blue which is a remote out to trigger your amp, and black for ground. My understanding is that the unit is turned on through a signal from the factory wiring.

If its not from them, my guess is you need a 12v switched source to trigger it on, which I think is the red wire.

I am far from an expert (so take this for what its worth) but I installed mine this past weekend.

Is it possible to send a pic of how u wired it up???

 

[Buellsox]

Just a month & 1/2 ago I hooked up the SGS Kicker Keyloc DSP to feed a signal to a RF Punch 300.1 feeding a Hertz 10”. The Keyloc STILL needs a dedicated power source with an in-line 2 amp fuse (it’s in the Kicker literature instructions) and a remote turn on signal wire. It also needs a dedicated ground. Just the plug & play harness that goes in-line at the factory Ford amp WILL NOT get the Keyloc to energize or cycle with the ignition.

Some quick pics I could find.
Keyloc & amp cycle on with ignition and cycle off about 20-30 seconds after the ignition cycles off.

 

[GrimRR]

The picture likely won't help you much but I ran a fused line from the battery to a distribution block then ran a power wire from the block to the amp, and a fused wire to the keyloc. Then I ran the blue wire from the keyloc to the remote turn on terminal of the amp, and the black wire to ground on the back of the cab. I'm sure theres different ways to do it, but thats what I did.

 

[Buellsox]

The picture likely won't help you much but I ran a fused line from the battery to a distribution block then ran a power wire from the block to the amp, and a fused wire to the keyloc. Then I ran the blue wire from the keyloc to the remote turn on terminal of the amp, and the black wire to ground on the back of the cab. I'm sure theres different ways to do it, but thats what I did.

Yep! Very similar to what I did above. That’s how you’ve gotta do it. The Keyloc is its own device and needs dedicated power & switched wires & a ground to do it. That’s the blue, black, yellow harness in the SGS kit. The plug & play harness is strictly factory signal by-pass & redirection.

 

[Bloody run]

Yep! Very similar to what I did above. That’s how you’ve gotta do it. The Keyloc is its own device and needs dedicated power & switched wires & a ground to do it. That’s the blue, black, yellow harness in the SGS kit. The plug & play harness is strictly factory signal by-pass & redirection.

Thanks for the pic, maybe another of a closeup of the factory harness area, really really appreciate your time

 

[Buellsox]

 

[Bloody run]

Wow NICE JOB WITH PICTURES, thanks again, have a good one

 

[Buellsox]

No problem

 

[Bloody run]

Last thing I promise, do you have the blue wires for remote on a switch ?? Or tied together?

 

[Buellsox]

I landed it in at the remote turn-on terminal at the Fosgate amp. So basically that one wire comes to the back and splits at the amp. Figured it’s just a switched low amp signal just to turn on & off so there’d be no harm in daisy chaining them together. Hence why the wire gauge is so small. Hasn’t given me any issues.

 

[Bloody run]

I landed it in at the remote turn-on terminal at the Fosgate amp. So basically that one wire comes to the back and splits at the amp. Figured it’s just a switched low amp signal just to turn on & off so there’d be no harm in daisy chaining them together. Hence why the wire gauge is so small. Hasn’t given me any issues.

I didn't put a inline fuse on the yellow coming out of the KEYLOC going to power wire at first, hope I didn't blow the KEYLOC, wonder if I could check it somehow?

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