Rust Prevention

[hand-filer]

I chose to go with the wax/oil based product. While I don't doubt the effectiveness of lanolin based treatments, I absolutely detest the non drying slimy mess that attracts dust and dirt like a magnet.
Then there's the annual application and dripping mess on the garage floor that goes along with it. No thanks.

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[Johnny 5]

I had this stuff too. Good luck to you.

How did your experience go long term?

 

[CandianRanger]

How did your experience go long term?

There was no long term. Within a year it was full of small cracks, looked like broken eggshell. (which is death because these cracks hold salt & moisture and ends up being worse than having bare metal).
That is, where it was on at all. A lot of places it got sandblasted off from road dirt/sand. No self healing properties at all. People don't realize how violent the underside of a vehicle is, even in July on asphalt.
Since then I've kept the Fluid Film on it and it eventually softened up and is now a nice soft pliable gooey coating. I can scrape it with my thumbnail down to shiny metal.

 

[CandianRanger]

I chose to go with the wax/oil based product. While I don't doubt the effectiveness of lanolin based treatments, I absolutely detest the non drying slimy mess that attracts dust and dirt like a magnet.
Then there's the annual application and dripping mess on the garage floor that goes along with it. No thanks.

The dripping mess is why I avoided Rust Check & Krown. (I'm in Canada too lol). The Lanolin doesn't drip, but it does all the other things you mentioned.

 

[CandianRanger]

 

[Johnny 5]

There was no long term. Within a year it was full of small cracks, looked like broken eggshell. (which is death because these cracks hold salt & moisture and ends up being worse than having bare metal).
That is, where it was on at all. A lot of places it got sandblasted off from road dirt/sand. No self healing properties at all. People don't realize how violent the underside of a vehicle is, even in July on asphalt.
Since then I've kept the Fluid Film on it and it eventually softened up and is now a nice soft pliable gooey coating. I can scrape it with my thumbnail down to shiny metal.

There was no long term. Within a year it was full of small cracks, looked like broken eggshell. (which is death because these cracks hold salt & moisture and ends up being worse than having bare metal).
That is, where it was on at all. A lot of places it got sandblasted off from road dirt/sand. No self healing properties at all. People don't realize how violent the underside of a vehicle is, even in July on asphalt.
Since then I've kept the Fluid Film on it and it eventually softened up and is now a nice soft pliable gooey coating. I can scrape it with my thumbnail down to shiny metal.

So if I get it checked in the spring and see all these cracks as you do, should I have them go over it with something they normally recommend getting reapplied every year? Because they did offer options and the 15 year no re-application is what sold me.

 

[CandianRanger]

So if I get it checked in the spring and see all these cracks as you do, should I have them go over it with something they normally recommend getting reapplied every year? Because they did offer options and the 15 year no re-application is what sold me.

If you see cracks or its hard enough that you can't 'cut into it' with your thumbnail, I'd ask for a full refund, but that's me. Then I'd find someone who sprays the products I mentioned, on top it and keep your fingers crossed.
Also look for places its worn off, the frame inside wheel wells, bottoms of the diffs, front control arms etc.

 

[Hootbro]

There is no free lunch on any of the coating methods but some are better than others.

I have undercoated for the last 15+ years starting with Fluid Film and progressed to Woolwax and am now currently with Blaster Surface Shield for the last three years. Surface Shield does seem to last longer and one can go every other year on application of it as it does stick around better. Surface Shield is more petroleum based than lanolin but is also mix compatible with either Fluid Film or Woolwax. Trade off with any of these coatings is that it will just develop a greasy grime that is self limiting but you have to get comfortable with accepting one will get dirty doing any underbody work with it applied.

With the exception of Ziebart that I think is just pure trash and a ticking time bomb down the road, most of the other undercoating methods are better than nothing.

 

[Johnny 5]

There is no free lunch on any of the coating methods but some are better than others.

I have undercoated for the last 15+ years starting with Fluid Film and progressed to Woolwax and am now currently with Blaster Surface Shield for the last three years. Surface Shield does seem to last longer and one can go every other year on application of it as it does stick around better. Surface Shield is more petroleum based than lanolin but is also mix compatible with either Fluid Film or Woolwax. Trade off with any of these coatings is that it will just develop a greasy crime that is self limiting but you have to get comfortable with accepting one will get dirty doing any underbody work with it applied.

With the exception of Ziebart that I think is just pure trash and a ticking time bomb down the road, most of the other undercoating methods are better than nothing.

Thanks for the articulated explanation. Greatly appreciated. The company that does my vehicles is a friend of the family and that's pretty much what he says in a nut shell. Something is better than noting except Ziebart, I had 2 vehicles wrecked by them in the 80's. After getting an education in this thread I'm going to just have them inspect and touch up every other year. I plan on keeping my Ranger Raptor for a long time. Still makes me smile when I'm in it.......

 

[CandianRanger]

Follow the Lanolin/Oil Undercoating Users facebook page. Tons of good info on there.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1210804552884147/?sorting_setting=CHRONOLOGICAL

 

[Vel0ci]

I just did mine, 3 cans of 3M Cavity Wax for the inside of the frame and 3 cans of Amsoil Metal Protect HD for the frame, axles etc.
Rent a lift if you can, wear a Tyvec overall and a high quality mask and you can finish in less than an hour.

 

[greaserman]

I take mine to krown

 

[CandianRanger]

I just did mine, 3 cans of 3M Cavity Wax for the inside of the frame and 3 cans of Amsoil Metal Protect HD for the frame, axles etc.
Rent a lift if you can, wear a Tyvec overall and a high quality mask and you can finish in less than an hour.

Amsoil MPHD is awesome stuff!! Wish they sold it by the gallon though.

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