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Rockweiler

Rockweiler

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Thanks for the heads up! Im seriously debating now whether to get the cover I want and work a rack system around that rather than work the cover around the Outpost...
Remember that the Retrax/Ford isn’t the only cover compatible with both Yakima and Thule rail system racks. The Pace-Edwards Ultragroove is among them. Shop around I’m sure you’ll find something you like and you have resources like this Forum to guide you. Us « early adopters » made the mistakes ahead of you so you don’t have to! Haha
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j_slate

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Remember that the Retrax/Ford isn’t the only cover compatible with both Yakima and Thule rail system racks. The Pace-Edwards Ultragroove is among them. Shop around I’m sure you’ll find something you like and you have resources like this Forum to guide you. Us « early adopters » made the mistakes ahead of you so you don’t have to! Haha
Thanks, I'll have to keep looking around. I checked out the Pace Edwards and it looks nice! The only major drawback is the canister size (12" x 10.25" or so). I'll definitely keep it in mind though. If I don't find one I like as much as the American Roll Cover I might just hold off on getting a cover until Yakima comes up with more compatibility. Among other benefits, the American Roll Cover only has an 8" x 8" canister which saves precious room on that 5' bed.
 
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Rockweiler

Rockweiler

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Can you point me to which roof rails you ordered? All the ones I’m seeing for the wildtrak appear to have two bolts in the front and two in the rear.
I placed a request to the parts guy at the dealership to get his EBay supplier and will get back to you as soon as I have it. And maybe my parts guy fed me the wrong info about the number of bolts, wouldn’t be the first time! I wasn’t present during the install.
 

HoosierT

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I placed a request to the parts guy at the dealership to get his EBay supplier and will get back to you as soon as I have it. And maybe my parts guy fed me the wrong info about the number of bolts, wouldn’t be the first time! I wasn’t present during the install.
Thank you!
 

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Grimlock

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Looks really sharp man!
Thanks for the info on the plastic block thing. Will be doing that for sure ... but unfortunately for me the felt liner as already been ruined. I will also be trimming part of the rocker/fender junction inside the fender cause it sticks out almost like a knife. In a more aggressive weight transfer with the wheels 3/4 to full lock it would easily puncture the tire I suspect.
And please let me know how you like those Cooper tires, I ‘m curious as to how they perform overall but mostly off-road.
Well now I am following both you and @Stangman570. Im getting quoted to do a Readylift 3" level. Looking at the same wheels as Stangman570 (17x9 -12 offset) but maybe smaller 285/70/17 KO2 Tires. How much modification will I be looking at here? My truck will just be a gravel road / mall queen...not gonna lie.
 
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Rockweiler

Rockweiler

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Well now I am following both you and @Stangman570. Im getting quoted to do a Readylift 3" level. Looking at the same wheels as Stangman570 (17x9 -12 offset) but maybe smaller 285/70/17 KO2 Tires. How much modification will I be looking at here? My truck will just be a gravel road / mall queen...not gonna lie.
I’m thinking 285 should only require some minor trimming inside the fender well. 295 is much taller and was a pain: removing plastic backing behind the “felt-like” liner, cutting part of the bottom of the Bushwackers, cutting and bending part of the metal where the fender meets the rocker. But that was done in the optics of giving sufficient clearance for major suspension travel while off-roading, which I’m finally going to test in the coming weeks.
 

jubreunig

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what do you think, how much power do you lost with your bigger tires? Do you realize it much?
 

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Rockweiler

Rockweiler

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what do you think, how much power do you lost with your bigger tires? Do you realize it much?
cant say I have since I only test drove the truck briefly in February before giving it back to the dealer to start the mods. I really dont remember how it drove prior to having big tires on. Sorry!
 

jubreunig

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cant say I have since I only test drove the truck briefly in February before giving it back to the dealer to start the mods. I really dont remember how it drove prior to having big tires on. Sorry!
ok thanks, that sounds not does it feels sluggish with the bigger tires. I ask for that reason, that my Tacoma droves good as long as i had no bigger tires mounted. With the aftermarket tires on it feels so much powerless that it is annoying. My Ranger test drive will be tomorrow.
 
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Rockweiler

Rockweiler

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ok thanks, that sounds not does it feels sluggish with the bigger tires. I ask for that reason, that my Tacoma droves good as long as i had no bigger tires mounted. With the aftermarket tires on it feels so much powerless that it is annoying. My Ranger test drive will be tomorrow.
doesn’t feel sluggish at all for normal driving so far. In 2 weeks when I get my trailer and start hauling my track car around I’ll let you know how it feels. Hoping that I won’t need a tune. I already have enough mods added on that can go wrong! Haha
 

RangerRaptor

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Ok so it seems I’ve been given the wrong info and in turn gave all you guys wrong info also. The North American Ranger does NOT come equipped with mounting holes for roof bars as “standard equipment”. The only “holes” that are there are for the 4 screws that hold the drip moldings in place (2 for each). The employee that gave me the original info is, obviously, not working at the dealership anymore!

Sorry to all that were mislead, as I was, by this “fake news”!
I was going to post a message explaining the reality of the NA Ranger and the holes not being in the roof, but you figured it out. I’m guessing you can use self-tapping sheet metal screws, but not sure. On my Raptor I mounted a 50” Rigid LED with roof mount. It took me 7 hours. A light bar needs bolts through the roof to handle off-road racing. You have to pull down part of the headliner and drill through 3 layers of metal. Then use magic, luck, and cursing to get the nut to thread onto the bolt. Then seal that opening so well that water will never enter.

However, I think they make some rivet-like bolts now that are way better than self-tapping screws, and don’t require pulling down the headliner. But, the rivet style require a much larger hole in the roof than the self-tapping screws.

Your truck it looking nice!
 

P. A. Schilke

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I was going to post a message explaining the reality of the NA Ranger and the holes not being in the roof, but you figured it out. I’m guessing you can use self-tapping sheet metal screws, but not sure. On my Raptor I mounted a 50” Rigid LED with roof mount. It took me 7 hours. A light bar needs bolts through the roof to handle off-road racing. You have to pull down part of the headliner and drill through 3 layers of metal. Then use magic, luck, and cursing to get the nut to thread onto the bolt. Then seal that opening so well that water will never enter.

However, I think they make some rivet-like bolts now that are way better than self-tapping screws, and don’t require pulling down the headliner. But, the rivet style require a much larger hole in the roof than the self-tapping screws.

Your truck it looking nice!
Hi Rob,

It is called a rivnut. Here is a pix of one kind of "kit"

https://www.harborfreight.com/45-pi...xfR3uSki6MJ1lGCFLT0WHVZe6xDMb8tgaAqyNEALw_wcB

Best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co, Retired
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