Undercoating Recommendation for the Northeast

[nek4life]

I'm looking at getting my new ranger undercoated and have a few shops and products available to me.

Fluid Film
NH Oil
Woolwax

and a little farther away a product called "Corrosion Free."

I'm leaning doing Fluid film this year since it sounds like that product can creep into more crevices and be sprayed into more places and then follow up Woolwax in subsequent years for the thicker protection.

Does anyone have any experience with these products that live in the Northeast?

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[Phraf]

I live in NH and went to NH oil. I had the boss wax and oil done last fall. So far so good.

 

[BML]

I'm looking at getting my new ranger undercoated and have a few shops and products available to me.

Fluid Film
NH Oil
Woolwax

and a little farther away a product called "Corrosion Free."

I'm leaning doing Fluid film this year since it sounds like that product can creep into more crevices and be sprayed into more places and then follow up Woolwax in subsequent years for the thicker protection.

Does anyone have any experience with these products that live in the Northeast?

Fluid film for me applied last April. Some smell initially but penetrates well. Too early to know how effective. Used waxol on last truck and was ok but not great and very messy

 

[stemplar]

Fluid film and woolwax are both lanolin-based, so you're sort of splitting hairs by choosing between the two. With that said, I've used fluid film for years with success and still keep aerosol cans of it around for quick applications, or for where my larger spray gun won't fit. I've switched to surface shield, another lanolin-based product, only because it doesn't have the initial smell of fluid film and it's a bit tackier so maybe slightly more durable. I'm a big believer in lanolin sprays as I've used them for decades on motorcycles, autos, and outdoor equipment like tractors, log splitters, etc and I've never seen rust form where I sprayed a lanolin product.

 

[Gplassm]

From all that I have researched on this topic, New Hampshire Oil Undercoating seems to be the best- but it is also pretty expensive at $800-$1,000 per application. They have specialized equipment for the application and they put the vehicle on a lift, remove the wheels and mask off brake rotors and other sensitive parts.
I am considering NHOU for my 2025 XLT - before winter arrives.

 

[stemplar]

From all that I have researched on this topic, New Hampshire Oil Undercoating seems to be the best- but it is also pretty expensive at $800-$1,000 per application. They have specialized equipment for the application and they put the vehicle on a lift, remove the wheels and mask off brake rotors and other sensitive parts.
I am considering NHOU for my 2025 XLT - before winter arrives.

Speaking of research, the best youtube channel I've found regarding undercoatings is called Repair Geek. He's done videos that shows how well his product of choice lasts over I think 7 years, and he's done product comparisons similar to the way Project Farm tests products. That video is here:

 

[purdyd]

The NOHU product test in the above video is a bit disappointing.

i don’t live in the northeast but i do live near the ocean.

I did it myself with surface shield. I bought a cheap spray gun off Amazon with tubes so it can get sprayed into cavities.

you can obviously buy in bulk and get it off Amazon now

 

[Gplassm]

As much as I can appreciate the differences in the product types, I think that the most important aspect is the application of whatever product you choose. A while ago I watched a clip of a NHOU treatment application and it was impressive. They had specialized high pressure wands that reached deep into frame spars and inside of doors, as well as removal of the wheels and masking off sensitive parts. I just think that kind of effort has value as I know that I could not do that, or reach those areas with any of the products that I would have to apply myself.
Before my 2025 Ranger, I had a 2013 Tacoma that I had treated myself with fluid film. Yes, I owned it for 12 years, but it still rusted apart. By the time I got ride of it, it was very obvious that I had missed some areas as parts actually started falling off!

 

[purdyd]

As much as I can appreciate the differences in the product types, I think that the most important aspect is the application of whatever product you choose. A while ago I watched a clip of a NHOU treatment application and it was impressive. They had specialized high pressure wands that reached deep into frame spars and inside of doors, as well as removal of the wheels and masking off sensitive parts. I just think that kind of effort has value as I know that I could not do that, or reach those areas with any of the products that I would have to apply myself.
Before my 2025 Ranger, I had a 2013 Tacoma that I had treated myself with fluid film. Yes, I owned it for 12 years, but it still rusted apart. By the time I got ride of it, it was very obvious that I had missed some areas as parts actually started falling off!

im not seeing anything that I couldn’t reach with my spray Gun with the plastic tube spraying attachment. Those tubes let you reach inside the opennings and even push it down in. One of the attachments has a nozzle that sprays out 360 degrees so instead of blasting all the way out you can stick It into holes and spray locally.

if you are only going treat it once in 12 years I think you need another product. My understanding is you need to do it annually with these lanolin based products.

that could add up over time if you are always paying someone to do it.

but I can see crawling around under a truck and spraying things isn’t for everyone

i don’t think I would spray painted surfaces or the spare tire like in this video but nice to see the process

 

[Johnny 5]

We had both our Ranger Raptors undercoated at a local garage, with this stuff, a wax base 15 year protection. Paid $950 for the service. It is worth every penny. They do inside all the door seams, the fender seams, the tailgate seams, and the whole underneath, even the axle. This stuff is amazing! I used it on my 2 F-150's and when I traded them in there was still an even coat of this stuff. I would highly recommend it if your truck drives or may drive on salted roads. Here is a link to the product I used. Hope this was helpful!

The second link you'll find some pictures I posted.

https://petroleumservicecompany.com/wax-based-automotive-undercoatings/

https://www.ranger6g.com/forum/conversations/undercoating.2760/#convMessage-14973

 

[ScottyRangerDanger]

fluid film works but don't pressure wash under it as it will run off. and make sure you windows are closed when you spray that stuff it reeks.

 

[Grand Nat]

Cosmoline. I'm around a lot of salt with my Ranger and my Tremor and my older vehicles. It works. View attachment 70113

 

[rsykru]

I had mine sprayed with Surface Shield based on Repair Geeks results and recommendation. Smell is much better than Fluid Film but does seem to drip more after while it settles. I have used Fluid film in the past on a Tacoma and 4Runner. I think you can not go wrong with either.

 

[BigAir]

From all my research, watching multiple YouTube comparisons and reading tons of personal reviews, I would choose Woolwax over Fluid Film, for sure. Fluid Film is too thin and won't last if used on the whole undercarriage that is exposed to road and car wash spray. It would work fine for inside doors and frame rails. If you haven't read the FAQ page on the Woolwax website, it does a good job of explaining the differences.

https://www.woolwaxusa.com/FAQs_ep_45-1.html

Blaster Surface Shield is another good option that is very comparable to Woolwax. Any of the lanolin products will need to be reapplied every 1-2 years for the life of the vehicle on surfaces that are exposed.

I wanted something more permanent, so I undercoated the whole undercarriage of our RR with Cosmoline with an airless sprayer. Afterwards, to coat the areas that aren't exposed to road spray, I bought cans of Woolwax and their 360 adapter and coated inside all the nooks and crannies.

As far as NH Oil. I think it is a decent option, but none of the research I did showed it being as good as Woolwax.

 

[Lion77]

I'm looking at getting my new ranger undercoated and have a few shops and products available to me.

Fluid Film
NH Oil
Woolwax

and a little farther away a product called "Corrosion Free."

I'm leaning doing Fluid film this year since it sounds like that product can creep into more crevices and be sprayed into more places and then follow up Woolwax in subsequent years for the thicker protection.

Does anyone have any experience with these products that live in the Northeast?

Either fluid film or my personal preference, Valueguard. VG-160 is a mil-spec solvent based undercoating, so like fulid film it doesn't dry out, however unlike fluid film, it also doesn't remain a soft wax that is washed off by underbody spray at car washes.

The best was to defend against corrosion is to undercoat with non-hard coatings EXCEPT for rocker panels, the reason that none of the waxy or solvent based coatings work well on rocker panels or pinch welds is impact, rocks, sand and road debris can dislodge them and leave areas unprotected.

So for rocker panels and the pinch weld, I suggest having a shop do Line-x. For everything else that you don't see, Valueguard, which can often be done at a Line-x installer, or you can do it yourself.

I did Line-x on my rockers / pinch weld specifical because I already had a few small rock chips from gravel roads and some trails. Took it to a shop, cost me $900, buy once, cry once, so I'd expect my rockers to last the life of the truck without rusting out.

Also I did the Valueguard cavity wax myself inside the rockers through the weepholes (drain holes). Not hard to do, there's a multi-directional flex spray tube with a brass nozzel, snake it in, hold down the can nozzle and slowly pull it out. The cavity wax is nasty, smells not so great, but doesn't dry out and will keep the rockers from rustin out from the inside, Line-x protects the outside.

Not to worried about the fenders, becuase most corrosion on the fenders starts due to rock chips on fenders that don't have plastic guards, on the ranger, the plastic flares are huge and cover all the metal nor does water accumulate at a metal edge (like it would on a pinch weld), so regular washing is sufficient I think for the rest of the body, unless your by the ocean, then I'd do cavity wax behind the fenders too due to salt content in the moisture of the air.

I used the non-Milspec version of value guard (VG-104A) as I felt it was sufficient for my area and the fact that we have a touchless car wash 1/2 mile down the street and I have a wash pass for all my cars, so I wash them (including under body flush with rust inhibitors) once a week on average.

VG-160 Military Spec<br>Solvent Undercoating | ValuGard: Rust Inhibitor Spray

Valugard — The Rust Store

Aerosol Snake Wand — The Rust Store

My stepfather (mid 60's now) used fluid film on his 2015 F-150 5.0, no corrosion on that, but they live in the country and rarely wash it, so the fluid film worked for their application since they rare wash it (maybe once a month) and don't drive it that much (just passed 100k miles at 10 years old).

Each has their applicaiton. Cosmoline is even better than fluid film, but I'm not sure how it interacts with rubber seals etc. What I liked about valueguard is that it's much more resistant to being dislodged as it's more like a "tar" material vs. a waxy substance that high pressure water or debris can dislodge.

I'm of the mindset that corrosion prevention involves not just undercoating, but regular cleaning as well. Doing both should keep the body in serviceable condition for the life of the vehicle, including preventing major corrision on the body / chassis / driveline.

I can handle small scratches, little dings, dents etc. I really don't like big ugly rust holes and I've had multiple vehicles in the past where actual significant damage resulted from excessive corrosion on chassis parts (like as in a rear torsion beam rusted through on a car, had to replace the entire rear beam axle).

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