UPDATE [now with full parts list]: Sound Deadening Install / Speaker Swap / Kicker Hideaway sub and KEYLOC

[Ryan Plain]

For the stereo guys: there are several 6x9/tweeter component options for this truck. Some/most come with a crossover. I'm guessing they'd work fine without their crossover as the system is already limiting the frequencies the various locations will see?

And if anybody has any experience with these, I'm looking at the Infinity Reference 697CS or the Kicker KSS690. These are both under $250 and the Focals seem to have mixed reviews given the price. I don't have great hearing and the stock system doesn't sound bad to me, but I'm going to do sound deadening and I hate to do that and not swap out the cheap stock stuff.

Do not skip the crossover for the tweeters. The stock tweeters, be it B&O or non, have a capacitor built in to the tweeter itself to limit the lower frequencies.

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[Chuck2001]

Do not skip the crossover for the tweeters. The stock tweeters, be it B&O or non, have a capacitor built in to the tweeter itself to limit the lower frequencies.

Good point....probably this could do the trick right ?

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_007BB5000/Crutchfield-Bass-Blockers.html

 

[Ryan Plain]

Good point....probably this could do the trick right ?

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_007BB5000/Crutchfield-Bass-Blockers.html

Those will work, but whatever tweeter that is purchased.. They should come with a crossover.

 

[Chuck2001]

Those will work, but whatever tweeter that is purchased.. They should come with a crossover.

Yesh but often a component set will have a big box crossover and you have to run wire from the crossover to the tweeter.

If trying to keep stock wiring (tweeter wire coming from headunit), a simple in-line bass blocker could be used I think. I'm pretty sure they still are actively managed by the B&O DSP/AMP because A2B protocal works both ways. HU sends signal digitally to B&O unit, then B&O unit has 5 channels (front woofers, rear speakers, and sub), but send back 3 channel signal digitally to a front module that powers tweeters and center channel. It's quite a complexe system...A2B capability is quite awesome though. Would be great to have that A2B protocol in aftermarket units...DSP AMP in the back, and AMP in the front using 1 digital cable....crazy.

The woofers probably don't need a crossover (wire from the B&O) because they are actively managed by the B&O amp.

 

[Pic-N-Stick]

Could work with the Alpine, it's a more refine sound, though less efficient so they will need more power from the stock amp to produce similar output with stock amp. Kicker is the better match for your application. Alpine would probably need an amp to shine.

For the sub, TBH i recommend pretty much the same thing over and over. The hideaway sub is a "ok" solution for bass.

If you're willing to sacrifice the small area under the passenger side rear seat, the better and cheaper solution is to install a Stealthtech 10" sub box made for Ranger (apply sound treatment to the outside of the box).

You then add the wire harness (plug and play, from soundgoodstereo) and a DSP AMP, the Kicker KEY500.1. This part is the magical stuff. It will auto fix the rolloff and EQ the factory bass signal and improve it, and amplify as well for a 10" shallow sub. I recommend the Kicker 48CWRT102 for awesome value.

You connect the dual voice coil in parallel to get 1 ohm, and that amp is stable at this impedance, 400w RMS.

Both solution, you will need a 8 gauge amp power kit also.

That thing will fly. Cheaper and wayyyyy better than the Hideaway + KEYLOC / harness (to fix the bass rolloff)

Box is about 150$
47KEY500.1 is about 240$
Kicker 48CWRT102 is 175$
Harness is 51$ (RCA)
8 gauge power kit about 60 USD

Hideaway + Keyloc + Power kit is 750 USD....crazy

Thanks! Yeah, not willing to give up any storage...Already downsized from a Tundra. The Kicker 6X9 sounds pretty dang good! Again, don't need to blow my socks off, just looking for a cleaner sound with a little more volume. Any idea what the B&O amp running the front 6X9's is rated?

 

[Chuck2001]

No clue, probably under 50w

 

[Flats]

Do not skip the crossover for the tweeters. The stock tweeters, be it B&O or non, have a capacitor built in to the tweeter itself to limit the lower frequencies.

I'm assuming the cheaper 6x9/tweeter sets that don't have a separate crossover also have them built in like that?

 

[Ryan Plain]

Yesh but often a component set will have a big box crossover and you have to run wire from the crossover to the tweeter.

If trying to keep stock wiring (tweeter wire coming from headunit), a simple in-line bass blocker could be used I think. I'm pretty sure they still are actively managed by the B&O DSP/AMP because A2B protocal works both ways. HU sends signal digitally to B&O unit, then B&O unit has 5 channels (front woofers, rear speakers, and sub), but send back 3 channel signal digitally to a front module that powers tweeters and center channel. It's quite a complexe system...A2B capability is quite awesome though. Would be great to have that A2B protocol in aftermarket units...DSP AMP in the back, and AMP in the front using 1 digital cable....crazy.

The woofers probably don't need a crossover (wire from the B&O) because they are actively managed by the B&O amp.

Very true on the large crossovers. When I initially did my speakers, I did the Kicker KSS690 running off of the stock B&O. I had some of the small inline kicker crossovers left over from a previous install & used those for the tweeters.

 

[Chuck2001]

That looks super pro!

XT60 is a great idea.

Did you rewire tweeters and front channel to the rear seats by any chance?

This is THE part I'm stressed about. The rest of my build I feel quite confident (doors, power wire from battery, amp rrack, undersea sub install)

 

[Ryan Plain]

That looks super pro!

XT60 is a great idea.

Did you rewire tweeters and front channel to the rear seats by any chance?

This is THE part I'm stressed about. The rest of my build I feel quite confident (doors, power wire from battery, amp rrack, undersea sub install)

Initially, I just plugged the tweeters into the factory harness in the dash. Door speakers were plugged into the factory harness in the door.

 

[Bloody run]

Ok I have a 2025 Ranger Raptor with factory. B. sound system, I have a 10 inch Hideaway Compact Kicker sub speaker, what EXACTLY do I need to bypass the factory Sub? This is my very first post here.

 

[Chuck2001]

Ok I have a 2025 Ranger Raptor with factory. B. sound system, I have a 10 inch Hideaway Compact Kicker sub speaker, what EXACTLY do I need to bypass the factory Sub? This is my very first post here.

This power kit will give you all needed wires to power and ground the Hideaway, wake it up, and get signal from KEYLOC. High quality OFC 8 gauge is well enough.

This harness and KEYLOC will connect between the factory B&O amp and the sub. Plug and play !

This is the way

 

[Pic-N-Stick]

Ok I have a 2025 Ranger Raptor with factory. B. sound system, I have a 10 inch Hideaway Compact Kicker sub speaker, what EXACTLY do I need to bypass the factory Sub? This is my very first post here.

Hey, please post back on your impressions when you get the Kicker installed! And welcome to the forum!!

 

[YukonRanger]

Why did you do two different layers of deadening material?

 

[NJ Braptor]

Why did you do two different layers of deadening material?

just followed what flaberdoopin suggested. If you went with just the thicker black layer I think it would be fine.

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