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What to do when switching from synthetic blend to full synthetic oil?

BruceB

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My first oil change was done using synthetic blend. I plan to do the second oil change and subsequent oil changes using full synthetic. Is there anything special that I need to do before going full synthetic? Of course I will change the oil filter always. But is it really necessary to do a flush with full synthetic followed by another final change with full synthetic? What' everybody doing?
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superj

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i never flushed going from one type of oil to another and have never had an issue on any newer vehicles. on some older vehicles, like 80s/90s, i would sometimes get oil leaks because the valve cover gaskets were hardened and the synthetic was able to get under them but on newer engines, i have not had any issues.
 

MK8.5 Golf R

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Just drain the factory synthetic blend, replace the filter and start using full synthetic, 5W30, no special requirements. I did mine @ 1K miles., drove it from S.C. to North Dakota and back, no issues whatsoever, changed it again @ 5K, I'm @ 6K now, this 2.3 is one smooth engine, plenty of power and torque.
 

MasterCylinder

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My first oil change was done using synthetic blend. I plan to do the second oil change and subsequent oil changes using full synthetic. Is there anything special that I need to do before going full synthetic? Of course I will change the oil filter always. But is it really necessary to do a flush with full synthetic followed by another final change with full synthetic? What' everybody doing?
Just change as usual, oil and filter. As Ive been informed, Ford supposedly came out with the full synthetic to address turbo chargers longevity and lubrication. Semi synthetic will and does serve the purpose but full synthetic is better for lubrication under high heat .I would never run either to the mileage manufactures recommend (but that's me). It is the life's blood of the motor! I'm doing the same as you are for mine!
 

MK8.5 Golf R

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Full synthetic is a far superior oil. 100% full synthetic is best, like Amsoil but not necessary I'm my opinion as long as you don't follow the 10K miles recommendation from Ford. Even Hyundai recommends full synthetic these days. The one thing to look for is to make sure the oil meets the specs. Ford Recommends Blend because it is cheaper and meets the specs but not because it's what you must use. Full synthetic goes above the specs of the Blend oils.
 

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BruceB

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Full synthetic is a far superior oil. 100% full synthetic is best, like Amsoil but not necessary I'm my opinion as long as you don't follow the 10K miles recommendation from Ford. Even Hyundai recommends full synthetic these days. The one thing to look for is to make sure the oil meets the specs. Ford Recommends Blend because it is cheaper and meets the specs but not because it's what you must use. Full synthetic goes above the specs of the Blend oils.
Good to hear there is nothing special to do when switching over. I'll be using the Motorcraft 5W30 Full Synthetic every 5K miles. Thanks
 

cozzishc

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My first oil change was done using synthetic blend. I plan to do the second oil change and subsequent oil changes using full synthetic. Is there anything special that I need to do before going full synthetic? Of course I will change the oil filter always. But is it really necessary to do a flush with full synthetic followed by another final change with full synthetic? What' everybody doing?
Not necessary to do anything, there is full compatibility. Anyone who tells you otherwise is wrong. (think for yourself how much (little) of the old oil will remain in the engine)
 

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Full synthetic is a bit more expensive compared to blend and conventional, but you can actually switch from blend to synthetic and back to blend without any problems whatsoever.
 

POULINR

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I change to full synthetic ( mobile 1 ) @ 800 miles and will change it again when I reach 5,000 miles then every 5,000 ( best insurance you can get keep the oil clean. I see with turbo charges.) @ the dealership the cost is about double ( $200.00) was what was charged. Had it done on my wife’s Bronco Sport 2.0 Liter. Again to help keep the turbochargers healthy. Did hers at 1,000 miles and will use the same change schedule as the RR.
 

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Dealerships are out of control with the prices they charge, specially for parts, the thing is the average person that use their services are not familiar with what it takes to work on their own car or don't have the time, so they take advantage. Dealerships don't make a whole lot of big money when selling a vehicle except when they apply addendums or mark up. Their big time money comes from trade in and resale, their service department, parts and extended warranties.
 

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I went with Mobil 0W-30 to ease freezing cold starts up here in the Yukon.

Used it for many different vehicles over the years and NEVER had an engine problem, regardless of brand and it makes a noticeable difference in start in freezing temps, much easier on the battery

1984 Toyota pickup
1989 Ford Escort
2001 Dodge Ram
2007 Ford Range FX4 Level II
2017 Ford Escape
and now my 2025 Raptor
 

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Dealerships are out of control with the prices they charge, specially for parts, the thing is the average person that use their services are not familiar with what it takes to work on their own car or don't have the time, so they take advantage. Dealerships don't make a whole lot of big money when selling a vehicle except when they apply addendums or mark up. Their big time money comes from trade in and resale, their service department, parts and extended warranties.
Excellent point. Dealers like to post signs on the doors showing KBB used here for trade. Mine had a now former sales manager tell me they didn't use that but NADA, then it was Edmunds, then he said J.D. Powers. I took a picture of him talking to a customer in front of the dealer KBB sign, then showed him I had numbers from every company he mentioned. He gave me $1500 more, then sold that vehicle the next morning for 5K over trade in. Having been buying from this dealer for years, I called the owner, sent the picture, explained what happened. Sales manager quit a month later and went to a dealership in Oklahoma.
 

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I buy my oil and filter myself. Only 17 dollars to have the dealer change it. Can usually get mobile 1 at Costco cheaper than parts store.
 

Lion77

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Rock Auto guys:

7 qts: MOTORCRAFT XO5W30Q1FS Oil | Shop Now at RockAuto

Note, that is their GF-6 spec full synthetic, which is the latest spec for turbo engines and addresses LSPI, timing chain wear and several other issues that turbo engines experienced on older GF-5 spec oils back when Ecoboost first came out.

OE Filter: More Information for MOTORCRAFT FL2062A

Also, don't forget the OE drain plug, replace ever other or ever 3rd oil change. I'm on my 3rd oil change with the factory plug and will replace next interval.

Sans plug, cost be $63 and some change after shipping and tax....way better than the stealer ships $130 for the same freakin oil and filter!

Obviously, any good oil will do a decent job but remember oil's all have different additive packages and balances, I've become a big fan of using OE synthetics because the OE does all the testing and validation with those oils and they are a known good quantity specifically tailored to their engines.

I also treat mine with DLC films to achieve super lubricity and reduce wear further, especially the rings.

Informational - Science / History Behind In Situ DLC Coatings for ICE and Transmission / Gearbox Applications | Ranger6G - 2024+ Ranger & Raptor Forum, News, Owners, Community (6th Gen)
 

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Valvomax or Fumoto drain valves and no more worrying about drain plugs.
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