Removing watts link pivot bolt

[RaptrJr]

Has anyone upgraded their watts link and had trouble removing the bolt from the factory watts link pivot (the bolt going into the diff housing)? Mine is seized and nothing I try is getting it to budge.

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[ShadowDragon24]

Its probably captive, and non removable. parts diagram shows it as one unit

 

[RaptrJr]

Its probably captive, and non removable. parts diagram shows it as one unit

Diagrams do show it as one unit but you’re suppose to reuse it with the SVC watts link kit.

 

[MasterCylinder]

Has anyone upgraded their watts link and had trouble removing the bolt from the factory watts link pivot (the bolt going into the diff housing)? Mine is seized and nothing I try is getting it to budge.

Hello Mr Impact Wrench! My family has named mine King Kong. The impact jarring will break the bind that holds it. I use it often for people that can't get things to break loose.

 

[DirtDerrick]

Thanks for letting me know what I have to look forward to.
I’m removing mine on Monday.

 

[embedded rock]

Recommend everyone pre-emptively remove the bolt and apply anti-seize?

 

[Aonarch]

Soak it in penetrating oil. LiquidWrench is best.

You can try putting a nut back on the end of the threads and hammer it out, though a press would be best.

Impact gun both left and right will help break it free.

 

[JrHDRanger]

I ordered the upgraded Watts Link from SVC Off-road and plan on installing it next weekend. Haven’t been able to find any videos or instructions of anyone replacing theirs. Was it simply bolt on when swapping or were there any other steps involved to get the new one setup correctly?

 

[RaptrJr]

I ordered the upgraded Watts Link from SVC Off-road and plan on installing it next weekend. Haven’t been able to find any videos or instructions of anyone replacing theirs. Was it simply bolt on when swapping or were there any other steps involved to get the new one setup correctly?

As long as the big main bolt in your pivot link comes out it’s super easy. You’ll need a breaker bar though it’s torqued pretty tight with a crap ton thread locker.

 

[OxygenMask]

It should be loctited. Apply heat, use a breaker bar so you can feel what's happening - NOT a mega impact wrench.
And don't use anti seize to reassemble, use loctite.
I would ask the company who made the parts about this. And which loctite to use, I would assume Red.

 

[RaptrJr]

It should be loctited. Apply heat, use a breaker bar so you can feel what's happening - NOT a mega impact wrench.
And don't use anti seize to reassemble, use loctite.
I would ask the company who made the parts about this. And which loctite to use, I would assume Red.

Blue loctite is what’s on it from the factory

 

[RaptrJr]

It should be loctited. Apply heat, use a breaker bar so you can feel what's happening - NOT a mega impact wrench.
And don't use anti seize to reassemble, use loctite.
I would ask the company who made the parts about this. And which loctite to use, I would assume Red.

Or maybe it was red. Shit I can’t remember now.

 

[jordantii]

Or maybe it was red. Shit I can’t remember now.

Bro...

 

[RaptrJr]

Bro...

 

[jordantii]

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