Bent tie rod.. ISO Stock Right Tie Rod Inner + Outer RR

[Land_B4X]

I'm running KMC IMS (+25 offset). No issues.

Do have any rub issues with the apex tie rods? What rim setup are you running? The Apex tie rods scuffed the rim at full lock on mine. RTR 17x9(+30mm). They hit the weights used to balance the tire first. So, I had them tires rebalanced but the shop couldn't find the sweet spot for a dynamic balance, without the tie end rods wiping the weights out..

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[Land_B4X]

I confirmed with APEX a while back on whether it should be reversed or if the logo should indeed be facing outwards:

Did you have clip on or stick on weights? Are the apex tie rods just that much more beefy they hit the rim? i also have the rtr +30's and this is giving me pause to upgrade to apex tie rods. kind of disappointing. I'm going to check maybe tomorrow with wheels at full lock how much clearance there is to the stock rods...



Also I live in a snowy, salty climate and want nothing to do with heim joint rods/suspension parts, so the apex seemed great....

**EDIT**
was taking a look at their site again, Did you perhaps install the rods reversed?? they are side specific with a curved section, im assuming for clearance (curved away from the rim?) if you had them on the wrong side, they'd curve forward into the rim? Does that make sense? logo on the rod should be facing forward right side up. Im trying to visualize it without being under my truck. i dunno maybe im wrong. The image they supply below says "top view" but its really a view looking up/ bottom view.

 

[Raptor_Logic]

I sold the a RTRs and got the Roush 17x8.5, +25mm. No rubbing now.

 

[Lion77]

I checked clearance on the stock tie rods on mine with the Method 705's (ET+35mm), there is a TON of clearance to the inside edge of the wheel, the weights on my methods are in middle of the wheel, not the outer edges (stick on, like OEM).

I said this a while back, that on the OEM spec KO3's, at least mine, with the Method 705's, mine used about 1/2 the weights to balance vs. the OE bead locks, which seemed to be somewhat non-uniform. The Method's billet blanks and machining seem to be a lot better on uniformity than the Chinese forging of the OE bead locks.

I would not expect issues running the APEX tie rods with 703's or 705's, but then again, the RR Race truck is on 35x12.5's and still running stock tie rods without breakage....so is it that the stock tie rods are weak OR maybe there's a quality problem that some of them are out of spec in terms of metallurgy...I'm starting to think those having issues may be in part due to quality problems as opposed to design.

I just have a hard time understanding how people are breaking stock tie rods yet the RR Race truck pounding itself across Baja and Finke on 35x12.5's isn't breaking them. Yah know?

 

[Locust13CT]

I checked clearance on the stock tie rods on mine with the Method 705's (ET+35mm), there is a TON of clearance to the inside edge of the wheel, the weights on my methods are in middle of the wheel, not the outer edges (stick on, like OEM).

I said this a while back, that on the OEM spec KO3's, at least mine, with the Method 705's, mine used about 1/2 the weights to balance vs. the OE bead locks, which seemed to be somewhat non-uniform. The Method's billet blanks and machining seem to be a lot better on uniformity than the Chinese forging of the OE bead locks.

I would not expect issues running the APEX tie rods with 703's or 705's, but then again, the RR Race truck is on 35x12.5's and still running stock tie rods without breakage....so is it that the stock tie rods are weak OR maybe there's a quality problem that some of them are out of spec in terms of metallurgy...I'm starting to think those having issues may be in part due to quality problems as opposed to design.

I just have a hard time understanding how people are breaking stock tie rods yet the RR Race truck pounding itself across Baja and Finke on 35x12.5's isn't breaking them. Yah know?

I haven't got under my truck yet to check my current clearance with rtr wheels and stock tie rods, but remember the RTR wheel is a 9 inch wide wheel, not 8.5" like most other wheels so thats an extra 1/4" less clearance, and the Apex tie rods are roughly 1/2" thicker Diameter than stock at that location so theres another 1/4" less clearance,

Would you say you had Def had .500" clearance or more when you checked yours?

 

[AssolMarandy]

I think you are making the right call. I would rather bend a tie rod than damage the rack too.

You may also want to check salvage yards or Facebook groups for someone parting out a truck. A lot of people swap to aftermarket parts and may still have stock tie rods sitting around.

Hope you find a set soon.

 

[jordantii]

I said this a while back, that on the OEM spec KO3's, at least mine, with the Method 705's, mine used about 1/2 the weights to balance vs. the OE bead locks, which seemed to be somewhat non-uniform. The Method's billet blanks and machining seem to be a lot better on uniformity than the Chinese forging of the OE bead locks.

I'm pretty sure 703/705 are not billet/forged and then machined. They are low pressure castings.

 

[Lion77]

I haven't got under my truck yet to check my current clearance with rtr wheels and stock tie rods, but remember the RTR wheel is a 9 inch wide wheel, not 8.5" like most other wheels so thats an extra 1/4" less clearance, and the Apex tie rods are roughly 1/2" thicker Diameter than stock at that location so theres another 1/4" less clearance,

Would you say you had Def had .500" clearance or more when you checked yours?

Id have to check again to see how much but nothing looked close by eyeballing it. Maybe the extra wheel width is where your losing the clearance on top of the tie rod, so a stack up, then the fact that the wheel weights are on the edge of your rim while mine are in the middle. Im wondering if RtRs flow formed barrels are not as concentric from the forming process (making them a but less balanced)?

Also, I dont know what alloys RTR uses vs. Method. Stronger alloys allow for thinner machining, but I had RTR Tek 7s on my 2016 GT and those had flow formed barrels, so id think the 6s are too and should be fairly thin, maybe I can get a better pick this weekend at full lock just to see. Don't recall having weights anywhere but in the middle of the barrel of the wheel on my GT either.

Maybe you should bite the bullet and try another tire shop?

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