stavok
Member
- First Name
- James
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2025
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- 2
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- 6
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- 9
- Location
- Wellington, CO
- Vehicle(s)
- 2025 Ranger XLT
- Thread starter
- #1
Just thought I'd post this in case someone else ran into the same problem....
SPOILER: Fuse slot #35 must have a fuse in slot #34 to be live (apparently 35 is in series after 34)
LONG STORY:
I was installing a dashcam and through testing for +12V while fuses were in place selected #34 as an always on fuse and #35 as a switched accessory fuse. Having confirmed both worked as intended I pulled the fuses and installed fuse taps included with the dashcam accessory kit (I wanted the always on feature to have the dashcam work in parking mode). Yellow wire to 34 and red wire to 35. Since 34 and 35 are "not used" by the truck I didn't install the extra fuses in the fuse taps. Fuse slot 35 was no longer live.(??? WTF???) I pulled the fuse tap and tested 35 directly with the tester and found it to be dead. This was baffling to me and I was worried I had blown an engine box fuse or managed to blow something in my new truck. Cutting a very long story short- eventually figured out that 34 needs both fuses present in the fuse tap (one 5A to feed the dashcam and the orignal 30A fuse to feed slot 35). Also, the tap wire should leave the box with the wire to the left (the right side of the fuse slot is the live leg). Since I had chosen two adjacent fuses, the outboard fuses block the adjacent fuse and they won't physically fit so I wanted to reverse the lower fuse tap so the outboard fuses could face downward and fit in the slot. This puts the 35 fuse tap with the leg wire leaving the slot to the right. Again, the tap requires two fuses to be present. The first fuse then feeds the accessory fuse. Everything works perfectly with the above setup
I've never heard of a fuse slot being dependent on another fuse, but this seems the case a crazy as it sounds (to me). I've confirmed that slot 35 will not be live without a fuse in slot 34.
Hope this helps someone else who stumbles into the same problem....
SPOILER: Fuse slot #35 must have a fuse in slot #34 to be live (apparently 35 is in series after 34)
LONG STORY:
I was installing a dashcam and through testing for +12V while fuses were in place selected #34 as an always on fuse and #35 as a switched accessory fuse. Having confirmed both worked as intended I pulled the fuses and installed fuse taps included with the dashcam accessory kit (I wanted the always on feature to have the dashcam work in parking mode). Yellow wire to 34 and red wire to 35. Since 34 and 35 are "not used" by the truck I didn't install the extra fuses in the fuse taps. Fuse slot 35 was no longer live.(??? WTF???) I pulled the fuse tap and tested 35 directly with the tester and found it to be dead. This was baffling to me and I was worried I had blown an engine box fuse or managed to blow something in my new truck. Cutting a very long story short- eventually figured out that 34 needs both fuses present in the fuse tap (one 5A to feed the dashcam and the orignal 30A fuse to feed slot 35). Also, the tap wire should leave the box with the wire to the left (the right side of the fuse slot is the live leg). Since I had chosen two adjacent fuses, the outboard fuses block the adjacent fuse and they won't physically fit so I wanted to reverse the lower fuse tap so the outboard fuses could face downward and fit in the slot. This puts the 35 fuse tap with the leg wire leaving the slot to the right. Again, the tap requires two fuses to be present. The first fuse then feeds the accessory fuse. Everything works perfectly with the above setup
I've never heard of a fuse slot being dependent on another fuse, but this seems the case a crazy as it sounds (to me). I've confirmed that slot 35 will not be live without a fuse in slot 34.
Hope this helps someone else who stumbles into the same problem....
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