Goat Fab Sliders Installed - Big Improvement over Running Boards

[pappacrunch]

Is Loctite required?

I don't think it is. The factory ones had Loctite (or something like it) so I just followed their lead.

I really like the look and the preservation of the backs of my legs.

And to make us all feel better about these sliders as sliders, Adam from Goat Fab reached out to me after seeing some of the comments on this forum. Here is what he had to say regarding frame mounting and the product in general:
"The problem with the frame is, it's not like it used to be, the frame in some areas measured almost .065" thick. We had dimpiling and puckering from pulling on the frame. It just wouldn't hold up to huge drops and impacts. The substructure on the Bronco and Ranger is identical and proven.

We offer a lifetime structure warranty for that reason.

With 1000's of sliders in the field being tested and put through everything our customers throw at them.

We guarantee this product used as a slider and can handle the big drops."

As a reminder, I am in no way affiliated with Goat Fab, I am just a fan of their products and my experiences with the way they run the company have been over the top positive.

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[Lion77]

The Science Behind GOAT Fabrication Rock Sliders

Summary of Video:

1. Older frame designs on domestic vehicles used C-channel open frames. These frames had a lot of flex and relied more on physical mass for production but were cheaper. If you see older trucks on the road with sagging frame, it's probably a C-channel era (70's, 80's, 90's, early 2k).

2. Modern truck frames even for domestic trucks are now fully boxed hydroformed. These frames are stiffer and lighter but use thinner steel and rely more on the structure than mass of the frame rails for strength. They are designed to minimize flex and allow for finer tuning of the suspension.

3. Rock sliders were mounted to the frame in older C-channel framed vehicles of yesteryear because that was the strongest mounting point of the vehicle's structure.

4. On many of the newer trucks / SUV's with hydroformed and boxed frames, the cab is also part of the vehicles structural rigidity, so modern cabs are like a unibody on ladder frame vs. just a frame on body or unibody. The cab mounting points are actually more solid for sliders and are now the intended mounting point.

5. Consider also that the cab is mounted to the frame with captured rubber isolators for NHV, similar to how the IRS cradle mounts to the body of a Mustang or Camaro. This adds a small amount of controlled flex for the sliders as the entire cab can flex slightly with the sliders due to the structure isolators. So, you get a dual damping action of the slider mounting brackets (which have some elasticity) and also the cab. This would be ideal for prevent bolt shear of the slider mounting bolts or even limiting damage to the slider tubing on impact.

So there is a very valid engineering reason to use body mounted sliders even on body-on-frame trucks / SUV's depending on the frame type / design. Open C-channel frames were very heavy duty but also acted like part of the suspension (why you see the old trucks flex so much when off-roading, i.e., look up Cummins diesel off-roading). On modern hydroformed fully boxed frames, the frame is more rigid and relies more on its designed structure than the raw mass of the frame channels. This makes for a lighter and more rigid frame but doesn't mean it makes for solid mounting points to loads that try to "twist" the frame along its length as it's not designed to handle that type of load transfer. The older open C-channel frames could handle that due to the very high wall thickness.

GOAT (and likely others) actually started off with frame mounted and during hard use they saw puckering and bending of the frame rails, but when body mounted, that did not occur on the sub-structure in the cab body which actually makes a more ideal mounting point anyway for sliders (much shorter brackets mean less leverage on the mounting points and brackets).

When I buy sliders, I have zero issue using GOAT's body mounted sliders or other similar brands. Don't be the fool who just assumes "because it's been this way in the past, it's still this way". I get the same thing when trying to educate people about the benefits of In Situ DLC films (aka TriboTEX), people don't understand Tribology and lubricants technology at all, so the end up making really stupid one liner comments like "it's snake oil" despite all the testing and validation by SAE. They don't even understand that parts like valve stems are factory coated in DLC films so it's not a new concept, but rather a self-forming DLC film variant which is what makes it valuable and unique. Sorry for the tangent but falls into line with the nay sayers of ignorance.

There's a reason GOAT and others use body mounted sliders on the BR and RR's, because it's actually taking advantage of modern chassis design and integration of the cab as part of the frame's rigidity.

 

[Bushmechanic]

Some vehicles can use body-mounted sliders effectively, and some can't.

It comes down to how that area is constructed.

 

[SubZombie]

I think people need to learn how to use the side steps lol A buddy of mine kept sliding off the leather seats down over the steps getting out, I'm like dude, it's a step you fucking step on it and had to show him how to get in and out.

I do like sliders but if I were going to get them I would get real sliders that attach to the frame, otherwise you're rolling the dice and I feel like you'd break something putting too much weight on them (I get your post, but I don't buy it for a second, this truck is too heavy for the body to hold that much weight). With this truck I would shy away unless rock crawling was the main use just because those large steps are the only thing keeping the rear quarter panel from getting destroyed by rocks.

 

[superj]

Jeeps also have body/frame mounted sliders now, versus jist frame mounted. So the explanation above aeems to be valid as that community puts those sliders to use all the time on forums. Even normal non off road people put sliders on and try going over things, definitly testing them out.


I wont ever buy or use sliders but i totally understand the need and how technology changes so aftermarket manufacturers need to stay up, which can easily be mounting to frame and lower body.

 

[2wheelfish]

Not sure this thread needs more, but bought these sliders and thought I’d offer some feedback. If I thought I’d spend every weekend rock crawling I might feel different, hell I probably would have bought a different vehicle in that case, but for some occasional use on rocky western trails I think these more than have the stuff. I bought the step version to give some more protection from tire kick-up and to give my wife a perch to get up in the truck. They are much heavier duty than the stock steps and give a couple inches of clearance in a vulnerable area. They were nearly half price compared to the hot metal fab sliders and much easier to install, both were factors in my decision. Getting in and out of the truck isn’t as easy as the stock steps, but I think the stock steps look like shit and are inferior in every way except for ease of access, so the trade off is fine for me. In short, maybe not the ultimate in slider protection, but more than fit enough for my purpose, at least for now.

 

[Lion77]

I know there's a lot of debate and claims that body mounted sliders are garbage. What's garbage is the amount of internet wannabe engineers who don't know what they are talking about.

Watch the video. The mounting points are structural. How do you mount sliders to a unibody SUV? The cab of the RR at the sides is designed like a unibody, it is structural and adds rigidity to the chassis, particularly torsional resistance.

Also, what people often fail to take into account is the fact that the cab uses large rubber isolators to mount to the frame, similar to how the Mustang IRS attaches to the unibody, along the same side sections as the factory running boards. They are designed for impact protection as well (prevent the cab from crushing in on side impact).

Those cab-to-chassis isolators will help absorb some of the impact on the sliders as the cab to-to-chassis connection is dampened, so it dampens the impact energy on the sliders / cab vs. a hard connection that has shown to fail due to leverage forces of the boxed frame for frame mounted sliders (pucking and twisting of the fame).

GOAT and others using cab mounted sliders are actually using the optimal points. The video is very compelling on how much abuse they can take, especialy at the end when the entire body slams down on the boulder during development testing.

Yah, cab / body mounted is the way to go on Ford's T6 chassis (Bronco's and RR's). My only decision is, straight or angled? I'm partial to the angled for asthetic reasons and the additional clearance.

Note that the factory running boards are actually even with the bottom of the frame, so Ford didn't exactly design them poorly. They are made of aluminum casting with steel brackets. They are NOT sliders obviously, but I wouldn't say thay are garbage. They are very lightweight and corrosion resistant, so as side steps / rock blockers they work perfectly. Aesthetically...that's another story. Don't hate them, but don't love them either.

Still, sliders are a nice upgrade and the added ground clearance on the side area seems to be a welcome improvement for trails / off-road parks and even some dunes as it helps with break over, so just your frame rails will drag at max break over, not risking pushing the running boards up into the rockers. Also the force per square inch between the truck and the ground is greater without the running boards, so it's like to push down into the earth a bit more, might be just enough to increase traction to the point of getting over the obstacle.

Side clearance / rocker protection are my biggest reasons for eventually moving to them as funds permit, but good to know they work so well if I ever do any mid-level trails with some decent sized rocks. The side steps just seem to be the one thing that gets in the way the most on trails, otherwise it's pretty good stock.

 

[Lion77]

Ranger Rock Sliders: 2024+ Ranger Raptor Rock Slider Steps

Rocky Road uses the same body / cab mounting points. They specifically note that the underside area is structural and design for protection during side impact of an entire vehicle....

"Rocky Road Ranger Rock Sliders use a mounting system that is integrated into the structural side collision panels. The metal is comparable in strength to the frame. We can pick the truck up with our rock sliders and it does perfectly fine. When we tested a frame mounted version, the leverage on the mounting arms was concerning and the frame box also was slightly flexing. After bouncing it with our forklift, it was determined frame mounting was too risky. The same testing using our existing system produced no noticeable compromises in strength to the mounting system, or to the vehicle itself. The design of our mounts and their rigidity along that massive slider bar also work to increase the strength on that structural collision panel.
It is 100% absolutely false that frame mounting is stronger than mounting to the reinforced collision panels. Testing of both mounting systems proved this. Sadly, we can’t pull false information off the internet. There is other Ranger Rock Slider kit on the planet which will allow the truck to be picked up. A Stronger mounted rock slider does not exist for the new Ranger."

So, there you go, both GOAT and Rocky Road sliders use the optimal mounting point, which also reduces leverage due to the short length. Frame mount if you want, but don't come whining to us when your damage the frame on your 60k truck because you "felt like it was stronger". Trust the engineering and testing (there's a ton between GOAT and Rocky Road).

 

[Mystic]

Ranger Rock Sliders: 2024+ Ranger Raptor Rock Slider Steps

Rocky Road uses the same body / cab mounting points. They specifically note that the underside area is structural and design for protection during side impact of an entire vehicle....

"Rocky Road Ranger Rock Sliders use a mounting system that is integrated into the structural side collision panels. The metal is comparable in strength to the frame. We can pick the truck up with our rock sliders and it does perfectly fine. When we tested a frame mounted version, the leverage on the mounting arms was concerning and the frame box also was slightly flexing. After bouncing it with our forklift, it was determined frame mounting was too risky. The same testing using our existing system produced no noticeable compromises in strength to the mounting system, or to the vehicle itself. The design of our mounts and their rigidity along that massive slider bar also work to increase the strength on that structural collision panel.
It is 100% absolutely false that frame mounting is stronger than mounting to the reinforced collision panels. Testing of both mounting systems proved this. Sadly, we can’t pull false information off the internet. There is other Ranger Rock Slider kit on the planet which will allow the truck to be picked up. A Stronger mounted rock slider does not exist for the new Ranger."

So, there you go, both GOAT and Rocky Road sliders use the optimal mounting point, which also reduces leverage due to the short length. Frame mount if you want, but don't come whining to us when your damage the frame on your 60k truck because you "felt like it was stronger". Trust the engineering and testing (there's a ton between GOAT and Rocky Road).

100% vouch for this as well...I abuse the hell out of my truck (probably too much...) and have had some pretty gnarly drops and pivots straight onto and off my sliders, no issues.

On the truck: Rocky Road Super Sliders
As a side note, they aren't great as steps; splurge for the kicker sliders if you want the step.

 

[Lion77]

Put some skateboard grip tape on the top edges of the tube, great for slick conditions so your feet don't slide off. That's what I plan to do once I get mine.

 

[Fordfknranger]

If you watch the video there's ALOT of flex when they hit rocks. They literally move up 2". I'd be worried about it hitting the body. And they cost as much or more than RCI actual frame mounts. You mayswell buy N-Fab trail sliders that body mount for $700.

 

[Lion77]

It's elastic impact, not in-elastic. The sliders aren't deforming but flexing like a spring steel and they only flex so far before reaching the limit of elasticity (like a coil spring bottoming out). This allows some of the impact energy to be stored in the flexing mount and the cab isolators, then returned once the load is removed. I'd rather face some flex in the mount brackets than sheered bolts, puckered or twisted frames because that's a totaled vehicle right there.

But hey, if you'd rather have a bent frame.....by all means. GOAT actually says in their testing they had frame mounted sliders fail in the field, they have seen puckering and twisting of the frames from frame mounted sliders due to the leverage because modern boxed frames are designed for shock / spring mount locations outside the frame, not inside like the old C channel styles.

So boxed frames are narrower, allowing struts and springs to be mounted outboard and tuck in under the trucks much more than the older C channel frames of the 60's, 70's, 80's, 90's and early 2k. Some flex is perfectly fine and beneficial as I mentioned above.

Have you ever seen an underbody camera of a Mustang or Camaro IRS at full throttle on a drag launch? Those diff's move around like crazy! So, guess what, people started swapping diff mounts for euro thane thinking "the stock mounts suck, they need to be rigid, cause rigid good, move bad".....then came the broken axles and even broken clutch plates at the rivets....same principle here.

From GOAT on this very topic: Instagram

But hey, let's ignore the real-world failures of frame mounting on modern truck designs everyone on the internet clearly knows so much more than the people building and testing thousands of these. Why we are still arguing about this is beyond me.

If you want frame mounted sliders, go buy frame mounted. This thread is about cab mounted sliders from GOAT and they are very well tested on thousands of vehicles from multiple makes and models.

Some designs, frame mounted is stronger, others, its cab mounted. The Ranger and RR benefit most from cab mounted due to the side collision reinforcement in that area.

 

[Fordfknranger]

It's elastic impact, not in-elastic. The sliders aren't deforming but flexing like a spring steel and they only flex so far before reaching the limit of elasticity (like a coil spring bottoming out). This allows some of the impact energy to be stored in the flexing mount and the cab isolators, then returned once the load is removed. I'd rather face some flex in the mount brackets than sheered bolts, puckered or twisted frames because that's a totaled vehicle right there.

But hey, if you'd rather have a bent frame.....by all means. GOAT actually says in their testing they had frame mounted sliders fail in the field, they have seen puckering and twisting of the frames from frame mounted sliders due to the leverage because modern boxed frames are designed for shock / spring mount locations outside the frame, not inside like the old C channel styles.

So boxed frames are narrower, allowing struts and springs to be mounted outboard and tuck in under the trucks much more than the older C channel frames of the 60's, 70's, 80's, 90's and early 2k. Some flex is perfectly fine and beneficial as I mentioned above.

Have you ever seen an underbody camera of a Mustang or Camaro IRS at full throttle on a drag launch? Those diff's move around like crazy! So, guess what, people started swapping diff mounts for euro thane thinking "the stock mounts suck, they need to be rigid, cause rigid good, move bad".....then came the broken axles and even broken clutch plates at the rivets....same principle here.

From GOAT on this very topic: Instagram

But hey, let's ignore the real-world failures of frame mounting on modern truck designs everyone on the internet clearly knows so much more than the people building and testing thousands of these. Why we are still arguing about this is beyond me.

If you want frame mounted sliders, go buy frame mounted. This thread is about cab mounted sliders from GOAT and they are very well tested on thousands of vehicles from multiple makes and models.

Some designs, frame mounted is stronger, others, its cab mounted. The Ranger and RR benefit most from cab mounted due to the side collision reinforcement in that area.

Show me some of these alleged bent frames? Until the "slider" flexes enough so the bars hit the body. One company saying something without actual proof is means nothing to me. K&N has always said they have the best filters and you will gain 100hp too. Both are lies and have been debunked many times.

 

[Lion77]

Watch the video from GOAT, unless you want to say they are lying...and I agree with you on K&N, I never use their filters because upper cylinder group wear is directly proportional to dust contamination and K&N filters allow an order of magnitude higher fine dust contamination, thus accelerating ring wear.

GOAT and Rocky Road both provide excellent explanations and have seen similar issues with frame mounting on this platform, but like I said, do what you want, I'm done arguing because clearly you can't get around your own thinking on this particular topic.

Switching back to the tangent of filters, I think K&N filters are fine for track use (road cars, on a prepped track), but not for off-road or daily drivers. They also have 1/3 the dust capacity of pleated paper filters and an exponential restriction curve, so they clog 3x faster and become very restrictive once clogged, a clogged K&N is more restrictive than a 50% life paper filter lol. It's why I stuck with the larger conical filter on my 2016 GT with Stage 2 Power Pack using the GT350 intake + throttle body + Ford Cal.

 

[ZombieDropper]

These look great and I just ordered an angled set. Can anyone tell me how long they waited for these? 25% off right now with free shipping using code BF2025. I dumped my shitty factory sandpaper running boards on day one before the truck even made it into the garage. 9 months and 900 miles later and I am already seeing a couple rock chips especially in the rear fender molding. And that's just to the grocery store and back which is about all I use this truck for. Lots of controversy about frame or body mount. I'm after paint protection more than anything.

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