Oil Change on 2025 Ranger Raptor - completed

[jordantii]

5K is a safe bet for most.

I think so too. I’ll send in some oil samples and see. I will also switch to a full synthetic. But want to see how the syn blend tests out.

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[Glisch]

I did my first oil change today at 1500 miles (wanted to do it at 1k, but holiday stuff and extra driving happened). I have a sample packed up to send to Blackstone for testing tomorrow. This will be the first test I've had done, so no clue how long the turn-around is on it. If anyone is interested, can post the results once they are in

 

[jordantii]

I did my first oil change today at 1500 miles (wanted to do it at 1k, but holiday stuff and extra driving happened). I have a sample packed up to send to Blackstone for testing tomorrow. This will be the first test I've had done, so no clue how long the turn-around is on it. If anyone is interested, can post the results once they are in

For sure post them and then do another sample at your next change.

 

[av8r]

I think so too. I’ll send in some oil samples and see. I will also switch to a full synthetic. But want to see how the syn blend tests out.

It used to be thought that full synthetic wasn't the best choice for a new engine which is why blends were used (supposedly) to help with any break in/wear in. I don't know if that's still considered accurate (or, if it ever was). I've run Rotella T6 in almost everything from snowblowers, cars, trucks, motorcycles (not KTM, they really do run a lot quieter with Motul) and have had great reports from Blackstone for decades. Not sure what I'll change the RR with. Prob whatever synthetic is on sale at Walmart that week.

 

[av8r]

I did my first oil change today at 1500 miles (wanted to do it at 1k, but holiday stuff and extra driving happened). I have a sample packed up to send to Blackstone for testing tomorrow. This will be the first test I've had done, so no clue how long the turn-around is on it. If anyone is interested, can post the results once they are in

It's very early to have a sample reviewed and they'll probably tell you as much. They state this on their website:

Best time to sample?
If you just bought a brand-new car, the first oil is factory oil and while that oil will sometimes have an unusual additive package, it’s not that useful for finding a problem, or developing a normal wear trend.

Factory oil is typically loaded with excess metal from wear-in of new parts as well and some silicon from sealers used when the engine was assembled, and this stuff normally takes two or three oil changes to wash out.

So, while these samples aren’t useful as far as trends go, they are useful in finding problems in engines that have been recently rebuilt or had other major work done, and we always recommend testing those from the beginning. This is because if wear metals don’t drop from that initial oil fill, it can be the early indication of a problem.

It’s always a good idea to get a trend going while the engine is running well. A trend consists of three samples. Once we have that established and the engine is running perfectly, then it’s not really necessary to get a sample at each oil change and at that point it’s okay in most cases to go to a once-a-year sampling routine.

 

[jordantii]

It used to be thought that full synthetic wasn't the best choice for a new engine which is why blends were used (supposedly) to help with any break in/wear in. I don't know if that's still considered accurate (or, if it ever was). I've run Rotella T6 in almost everything from snowblowers, cars, trucks, motorcycles (not KTM, they really do run a lot quieter with Motul) and have had great reports from Blackstone for decades. Not sure what I'll change the RR with. Prob whatever synthetic is on sale at Walmart that week.

BMW M cars all have a 1200 mile oil and diff change. They ask to limit RPM and as far as I known they use the same full synthetic from first fill. I did analysis on the factory fill 0-30 and it was recommended that I switch to a 5-30 that still met the LL-01 BMW spec. Which I did. With the RR i will stick to their spec once I switch to full Synthetic.

 

[JrHDRanger]

I had dealer change it at 500 and truck stunk like burnt oil for days. Changed it myself again at 1500 and added a Ronin drain plug. There was quite a bit of fine metal in the filter at 1500. Changed again at 4500 and there was just a few metal particles. Changed at 10000 and filter was clean. Now I’m sticking to a 5000 mile interval and only use Penzoil platinum full synthetic. I only go to dealer to have them do their service interval checks and rotate the tires.

 

[D.J. Swanson]

I just hit 11,000 miles on my RR bought over the summer. (Yeah, lots of driving back and forth between SoCal and NoAZ.) Lacking the time to do the first oil change myself, I took the RR to an oil change place -- where the truck was immediately swarmed by 5 guys from the shop, oohing and aaahing all over it. They even took pictures. I'm in Flagstaff, where RRs are apparently quite rare. Go figure. But even in SoCal, I am regularly stopped in parking lots by people who want to know all about the truck. I've had lots of cars and trucks in 40+ years of vehicle ownership, but this RR gets more attention and compliments by far than anything I've ever owned.

 

[spazzyfry123]

What’s it take to do the change? I went to one of the Valvoline stay-in-your-truck deals this morning. Incompetence to the max. Frustration for the experience aside, now I have the entire underside of this truck covered in oil and oil drips all over my brand new 50x35 concrete pad I poured.

How?

 

[superj]

Dude, thats sucks. I would be so mad

 

[spazzyfry123]

How does the truck drain? I mean is the drain plug wide open? Or does it piss right onto the truck? I’m trying to figure out how there’s so much oil over the bottom of this thing.

 

[scuba mike]

yes.. you turn the yellow plug and its wide open all the oil dumps at once..

 

[Joshper1]

yes.. you turn the yellow plug and its wide open all the oil dumps at once..

Yes, and i suggest before you Do, place some aluminum foil over some cables that sits just under the drain, it'll help. also using a large stem funnel (for pouring the new oil), won't work a shorter one will do the trick.

 

[james1108]

Don’t forget to replace the stupid yellow plug for the oil every change too. From experience it will absolutely start to leak before your next change and that was with me doing 3k oil changes. I’d recommend the ronin. Just buy it once and be done with it.

for an aside. I can’t find anything. Does anyone know where a metal motor oil pan can be bought? All that ever comes up is the transmission oil pans.

 

[25PlatTrem350]

Do they drain best as in all the old oil drains out with the vehicle flat or slightly elevated in the front?

Except to yard the running boards off I can't say that I've really been under our RR much yet to look things over but now that it has a little over 1,000 miles on it I was going to do the first oil change this week then I'll likely go somewhere between 5000-7500 on the oil changes. I do Amsoil in most everything I have.

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