Signature Lux amber (lava) daytime running lights

[peterdiamond97]

Just watched your YouTube video! Gives me the ok to go ahead and buy. Funny seeing some people saying it doesn’t work in some modes haha. Some notes. You are right copper has a better thermal conductivity and allows the heat to get out faster. I’m not sure why they made it raised from the aluminum that seems kind of dumb cause there won’t be any airflow there and it reduces your total area of contact. More likely something to do with manufacturing that heatsink. Second note, when reapply the thermal grease you really should remove the old stuff. When you have too much thermal grease it can actually make the thermal transfer worse. You really just want a light coat because that grease will fill in any gaps and imperfections on the surface of the metal. Too much can also cause it to ooze out more and has the potential to generate Vocs that can build up on the led and darken them over time. And if it wasn’t clear from my way too technical description, I’m an electrical engineer who works in lighting haha

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[Garaged]

Just watched your YouTube video! Gives me the ok to go ahead and buy. Funny seeing some people saying it doesn’t work in some modes haha. Some notes. You are right copper has a better thermal conductivity and allows the heat to get out faster. I’m not sure why they made it raised from the aluminum that seems kind of dumb cause there won’t be any airflow there and it reduces your total area of contact. More likely something to do with manufacturing that heatsink. Second note, when reapply the thermal grease you really should remove the old stuff. When you have too much thermal grease it can actually make the thermal transfer worse. You really just want a light coat because that grease will fill in any gaps and imperfections on the surface of the metal. Too much can also cause it to ooze out more and has the potential to generate Vocs that can build up on the led and darken them over time. And if it wasn’t clear from my way too technical description, I’m an electrical engineer who works in lighting haha

I was thinking that too, that the old grease should be scraped off first. I'd say apply a thin even coat across the copper like you're installing a heat sink on an SOC and avoid any air gap. The gap would probably go away if the old gunked up grease was scraped away. But who knows...

 

[peterdiamond97]

I was thinking that too, that the old grease should be scraped off first. I'd say apply a thin even coat across the copper like you're installing a heat sink on an SOC and avoid any air gap. The gap would probably go away if the old gunked up grease was scraped away. But who knows...

It looked like the gap was due to the aluminum actually being raised up, which is strange. If I had to guess, the other lower surface doesn’t have as smooth of a finish and it just the raw casted metal so they only have to machine out the areas where the led and the screw boss are. Really just cost cutting due to less machining time imo, but that’s just a guess

 

[smokinjoe64]

I wasn't aware of that. I received an email from them saying to hold off on the installation of the Lava DRL conversion kit until you receive the installation manual.

May've overstated a bit...you 're far more accurate with "hold off on the installation".

 

[smokinjoe64]

Hey brother! ...If you are near DC I’d be happy to help you out! Cheers

Wish I could, but the commute from SoCal a bit too long
Appreciate the offer!

 

[KayaPayaPigDog]

Just watched your YouTube video! Gives me the ok to go ahead and buy. Funny seeing some people saying it doesn’t work in some modes haha. Some notes. You are right copper has a better thermal conductivity and allows the heat to get out faster. I’m not sure why they made it raised from the aluminum that seems kind of dumb cause there won’t be any airflow there and it reduces your total area of contact. More likely something to do with manufacturing that heatsink. Second note, when reapply the thermal grease you really should remove the old stuff. When you have too much thermal grease it can actually make the thermal transfer worse. You really just want a light coat because that grease will fill in any gaps and imperfections on the surface of the metal. Too much can also cause it to ooze out more and has the potential to generate Vocs that can build up on the led and darken them over time. And if it wasn’t clear from my way too technical description, I’m an electrical engineer who works in lighting haha

Well crap! I didn’t realize i was supposed to clean off the old thermal grease. Hopefully since it is only a year old it won’t be a problem as the old stuff was not dried out at all bet that is a great piece of advice from someone who knows their stuff! I was a systems engineering major in college and took a few years of EE but that was over 20 years ago so most of those penguins have been kicked off my mental iceberg for other useless skills and facts haha. Cheers

 

[KayaPayaPigDog]

I was thinking that too, that the old grease should be scraped off first. I'd say apply a thin even coat across the copper like you're installing a heat sink on an SOC and avoid any air gap. The gap would probably go away if the old gunked up grease was scraped away. But who knows...

Darn, I didn’t realize I should have cleaned the old stuff off, the good news is that is only a year old and it was not dried out at all, the gap is there because the spots for the thermal grease and the rings around the guide posts and the screw hole are slightly raised, no matter what (even with no grease) that gap would be there from what I can tell but it probably didn’t show very well in the video. I may end up taking the lights out all together to show other ways to do the job and if I do I’m gonna take the modules back off and clean them up and do as instructed with less grease. Live and learn. Do you think I am in for trouble if I don’t get back in there to fix it or is it just good vs better at this point? Thanks.

 

[0ak9]

Darn, I didn’t realize I should have cleaned the old stuff off, the good news is that is only a year old and it was not dried out at all, the gap is there because the spots for the thermal grease and the rings around the guide posts and the screw hole are slightly raised, no matter what (even with no grease) that gap would be there from what I can tell but it probably didn’t show very well in the video. I may end up taking the lights out all together to show other ways to do the job and if I do I’m gonna take the modules back off and clean them up and do as instructed with less grease. Live and learn. Do you think I am in for trouble if I don’t get back in there to fix it or is it just good vs better at this point? Thanks.

after watching your install video, I don’t know if you want to conduct surgery again disconnecting the module from the headlights

 

[sikedsyko]

Seems like the install would be alot easier if you just pull the whole headlight out of the car?

 

[Arsenall11]

Seems like the install would be alot easier if you just pull the whole headlight out of the car?

It would, until you see what it takes to pull it.

 

[KayaPayaPigDog]

It would, until you see what it takes to pull it.

well i guess i have to take that as a challenge and pull the headlights now! i cant let a comment like that go unanswered

 

[Woodsmann]

They look great. Does anyone know if they fit in a non-raptor? I didn’t see anything on the website.

 

[SoulMafia]

They look great. Does anyone know if they fit in a non-raptor? I didn’t see anything on the website.

https://www.ranger6g.com/forum/thre...r-drl-conversion-headlights.17186/post-272505

It’s been confirmed they work with the Performance Headlights. I emailed them a picture of my XLT headlights and was told the buttom part will not light up but they’ll will work on getting one that work for lower trim soon! Just need a little patience due to the difference in the AUS/US models.

 

[smokinjoe64]

well i guess i have to take that as a challenge and pull the headlights now! i cant let a comment like that go unanswered

Luv the challenge & acceptance...all for the good

 

[G L Rockwell]

Couple answers to your comments. First off, you do have to remove the 3rd little aluminum tab on the heat sink to get the new modules to fit, but it is nothing more than a finned block of aluminum with one threaded hole and 3 small posts (two big and one small). i just took a pair of pliers and bent it off at the base, super easy, you would be able to mount the originals back on no problem, honestly i'm not sure why the third post was in there in the first place, the other two guide holes are more than enough to hold the board in place while tightening the screw and it doesn't provide any additional cooling. As for the lights not working when running, that is not the case, i'm guessing the guy was checking by himself and put the truck in park after driving it and checked. In park during the day, the daytime running lights are off no matter what module you have as i understand it. but when you put it back in drive, they come back on. that is a function of the truck, not the light module. possibly something that can be changed in forscan (similar to the fog lights turning off when the high beams are on, seems strange but can be changed in forscan). I'll be posting the video of the install today when i get home from work and have time to edit it and i'l go into all of this there as well as showing the little tab you have to remove. the other option would be to drill through the copper on the board, but that seemed like a way bigger change than simply taking the 3rd tab off. Hopefully t hat answers your questions! Cheers.

Apologies if this has been answered, I assume warranty on the headlights is void if these are installed correct ? Looks nice BTW !

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