Swearing at them in Japanese, when being torqued from the factory! What kills me is; the pneumatic drivers torque setting canât be changed on the assembly line.
Iâd be tempted to use grade 8 bolts they wonât shear and the same. (Chase the threads in the bed.)
The swing out storage box uses those bolt holes as attachment points.
Ranger/Hobb is correct. This is what I did. Also, look at all the red loctite in the threads. Crazy ?
Consider drilling it out and installing a stainless riv nut.So, I was trying to remove the tie down hook bolts and bolt head snapped off. Looks like they used blue lock tight. Feels like red lock tight.
I've had mine for 53 years. I bought it for the exact same purpose. Mine was a Honda S65.An electric impact has one big flaw, the bit can easily slip. I prefer a hand impact tool, similar to this one.
I have a smaller 3/8â drive one that I bought 55 years ago to remove those pesky soft Philips screws on my Honda motorcycle. It was the only way to get them out without stripping the heads. When you whack it with a heavy hammer, all the force goes into driving the bit deeper into the fastener. I still use that tool. WEAR A HEAVY GLOVE on the hand holding the tool, otherwise a slip will take the skin off.
If it completely snaps off, you canât do anything but swear, but IMHO this is better choice than an electric tool for screw head fasteners.
Always chase the threads before reinstalling a bolt, to remove dried thread sealant and steel burrs. Always!
John Davies
Spokane WA USA
I made the mistake of using an impact gun on the first two since I couldnât get them out any other way. Snapped the cheap bolts right off. Wound up getting them out with a simple 1/2â ratchet wrench. Took it very slowly and the rest of them did come out. I removed them to install the Ford modular bedliner.
Like you, I bought mine in the â70âs for my Kawasaki. Used it yesterday to remove stubborn screws in a golf cart. Has never failed me. At least that I can remember?An electric impact has one big flaw, the bit can easily slip. I prefer a hand impact tool, similar to this one.
I have a smaller 3/8â drive one that I bought 55 years ago to remove those pesky soft Philips screws on my Honda motorcycle. It was the only way to get them out without stripping the heads. When you whack it with a heavy hammer, all the force goes into driving the bit deeper into the fastener. I still use that tool. WEAR A HEAVY GLOVE on the hand holding the tool, otherwise a slip will take the skin off.
If it completely snaps off, you canât do anything but swear, but IMHO this is better choice than an electric tool for screw head fasteners.
Always chase the threads before reinstalling a bolt, to remove dried thread sealant and steel burrs. Always!
John Davies
Spokane WA USA
John, most here have never seen one, let alone used one. This is old school or should I say our old school impact. However, I do agree if it wonât budge.???An electric impact has one big flaw, the bit can easily slip. I prefer a hand impact tool, similar to this one.
I have a smaller 3/8â drive one that I bought 55 years ago to remove those pesky soft Philips screws on my Honda motorcycle. It was the only way to get them out without stripping the heads. When you whack it with a heavy hammer, all the force goes into driving the bit deeper into the fastener. I still use that tool. WEAR A HEAVY GLOVE on the hand holding the tool, otherwise a slip will take the skin off.
If it completely snaps off, you canât do anything but swear, but IMHO this is better choice than an electric tool for screw head fasteners.
Always chase the threads before reinstalling a bolt, to remove dried thread sealant and steel burrs. Always!
John Davies
Spokane WA USA
I've still got mine stuck away in one of my tool boxes. Haven't used it in a decade or two...... but appreciate the reminder on using it.
