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nate.co

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You are misunderstanding. Normally chimes, turn signals, and other alert sounds the truck makes will come through the front doors and center channel. When there is an error detected these chimes are played through the backup speaker in the gauge cluster. Disconnecting the subwoofer causes this issue.

I don't like my truck to sound like an early 2010's f150 when I open the door or start it up. Consider me strange.

I've had the subwoofer disconnected for a while with no errors or issues of any kind.
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hand-filer

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I've had the subwoofer disconnected for a while with no errors or issues of any kind.
Thanks for confirming what I'm experiencing. Your installation thread was very helpful by the way.
It will be my installation guide. I'm just waiting on the Stealthtech enclosure.
 

NJ Braptor

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How much space is there under the seat to the top of the speaker? Looks like it would be a very tight fit. And did you bolt in the sub via drilling or just drop it in?
 

Antman450

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I put back my kids car seat so its kind of a pain to take out and look. For the amp, I know the my installer said the amp is rated at 2 ohms which I thought that was what the sub was, but I guess he said the sub actually measured out to 4 ohms. So I guess my sub is actually getting only 175 watts of power, but its still plenty loud for what I am using it for.

The amp isn't too accessible without taking out the seats. Sorry, hope this helps.
According to JL Audio's specs the 10TW1-2 is a 2 ohms sub. Any idea on why the installer would have said it is 4 ohms?
 

jorosz0309

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According to JL Audio's specs the 10TW1-2 is a 2 ohms sub. Any idea on why the installer would have said it is 4 ohms?
I’ve taken a volt meter to countless subs and speakers of all kinds as I design and build home theater speakers and crossovers. I’ve never measured the impedance of a 2 ohm sub as 2 ohm. There is almost always some impedance in the volt meter itself and will measure at 3-“ish” or even 4 on a cheap meter. I have the 10TW3-D4 and each of those 2 voice coils measured at 6 ohms and when wired in parallel they measured 3-4 when rated at 2 ohms. So if he was just going off a measurement from a meter, the 2 ohm sub may very well have measured at 4.
 

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Geneva524

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hey can anyone advise where the power plug is located for the stock sub-woofer? I'd like to disconnect it. Thanks!
 

LordRaptor

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You mention using the sub JL Audio TW1-10 but you linked a different one, JL Audio 10TW1-2 I just wanted to confirm which you used?
 
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Snkrjeff020

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You mention using the sub JL Audio TW1-1 but you linked a different one, JL Audio 10TW1-2 I just wanted to confirm which you used?
Whichever one they have on Crutchfield. Thats where I ordered from.
 

jorosz0309

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You mention using the sub JL Audio TW1-1 but you linked a different one, JL Audio 10TW1-2 I just wanted to confirm which you used?
There is no TW1-1. You have your choice of TW1-2 (2 ohm) or TW1-4 (4 ohm). You'd pick whichever one is best compatible with the amp you're running. This sub is easy to wire as it is a single voice coil.
 

LordRaptor

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LordRaptor

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Should work well. The TW1 is a 300w sub and your amp pushes 300w into a 2ohm load. So you'll want to get the TW1-2. Both your amp and sub will max at 300w. If you buy the TW1-4, you'd only be able to use 150w when pushing the 4ohm load.
That’s what I thought! Thanks! Dang this sub is expensive.
 

DaStockRR

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Today I completed the install of the same exact setup and it sounds incredible!
 

Baseball0618

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JL Audio website says this sub box will not fit in the 2025? Is that correct?
 

nate.co

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JL Audio website says this sub box will not fit in the 2025? Is that correct?
That seems strange to me -- it fits the Gen5 (2019-2023) as well as the Gen6 (2024) so I would be surprised if Ford changed the shape of that under-seat area for the 2025.
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