Ford Fail - Bedside Mount Bolts Way too Tight

[RaptorRnr]

I have been looking forward to installing the Builtright Bedside Rack Molle panels since I received my truck a year ago. Builtright just finalized and shipped them for the '24 Ranger at the beginning of the month.

Ford made this nearly impossible with the threading on the tie down bolts. First, I will never buy a Ford truck with the factory spray-in bed liner again. They spray over the six tie down mount points, including the bolts. It's easy enough to scrape off the protective cover, but still a pain in the @$$. Then the problem becomes getting the bolts out. Using a T-40 bit I tried to carefully remove the bolts. of the 7 I have removed so far, only one was relatively easy. I have one that I cannot get it to move beyond the initial full turn. I stripped the T-40 head, then broke the head of the bolt off. Then I tried to counter screw the bolt out of the truck. I have drilled completely through the bolt and it still won't move. Previously, I have successfully installed Builtright rack systems on 2 F-150s (moved from one truck to the next) and on a Superduty. The process was relatively easy. For this job I used a T-40 Torx bit with my 1/4-inch socket. I was pressing so hard to get the existing bolts out, it stretched my 1/4-inch socket so that I have to throw it away.

For a truck that is meant to accessorize in the Ranger Raptor, there's no reason for the bolts to be so ridiculously tight. The bolts all have lock-tight blue on them. I get that these are a liability so they should be tight. They should not be this tight. The job should take a couple hours to complete. After 5 hours of trying carefully to get the bolts out I'm going to have to ask the dealer to address the issue.

Here's a look at the stripped bolt hole

Once I address the stripped bolts, the setup will be quite nice.

Clearly I need a better set of sockets. No bed system should be able to ruin a set that I have had for 30 years. Replacing my sockets with Snap-on would cost me $10k in my limited research.

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[CACTUSGREYFX4]

Blame it on the robot setting nobody's probably checked them since they have been set.

 

[ATestBishop]

Ford used no less than 3 different formulations of thread locker that I could see on my bolts and they must go thru many gallons... It took great care and strength to remove them all a quarter turn or less at an effort and it's very possible to break tools in the process but I really don't think you'd see value in that tool brand

 

[Aemonn]

I just removed my factory tie downs in anticipation of receiving my AAL molle panels tomorrow. Had a similar experience at first.

I used channel locks to strip the bed liner from the bolt heads. Then, like you I stripped one of the Torx head bolts when using my ratchet. I had to use the same channel locks to basically wrench it out.

After that I used my 1/2" high torque impact wrench and that made quick work of them. I'm always nervous to use it for fear I'll snap something unintentionally. It removed the rest of the bolts and kept them in good condition. I had to up it to level 2 for one.

Already ordered a few replacements from the dealership. They're not cheap.

 

[Bushmechanic]

I can't remember where I read it, but I recall the factory torque specification being over 100 pound feet, which is insane for such a part; especially if thread locker is used and, from what I've seen, they use entirely too much thread locker.

 

[nullderef]

I've seen a number of threads about this on the forum. So much so I debated if it was worth it... But I tried it anyways and I didn't have an issue removing the tie downs closest to the cab wall. It was a little slow going, but they yielded without any theatrics.

Sorry to hear your's went sideways.

 

[bbrptr]

I installed a swing out storage box and I agree these bolts are a huge pain in the ass. It is worth mentioning that the bolts are TP-40 not T-40. The torx plus allows for higher torque and reduce the chances of stripping the bolt, though these bolts are in so tight you can still strip them even with the TP-40 (ask me how I know)

 

[Bushmechanic]

I haven't had to mess with them, personally.

I needed the bed lined immediately upon purchase, so I got the modular liner to use until I had it properly sprayed. After reading the rather extensive instructions, I just let the dealership install it.

The bolts all look new. Either they didn't have any problems, or they replaced hardware. I didn't think to ask them how they managed it so cleanly.

 

[Aemonn]

I haven't had to mess with them, personally.

I needed the bed lined immediately upon purchase, so I got the modular liner to use until I had it properly sprayed. After reading the rather extensive instructions, I just let the dealership install it.

The bolts all look new. Either they didn't have any problems, or they replaced hardware. I didn't think to ask them how they managed it so cleanly.

From my experience, using an impact gets them out without damage. A shop very likely used an impact right from the start.

 

[John B]

Torx plus bit, impact used carefully, and a torch on the bolt head first. But I agree, it's kinda ridiculous. My 2019 was easy compared to my 2024

 

[Sako887]

I installed the builtright bedside rack a few weeks ago and ran into the same issue. It seemed like the culprit was the thread locker they used. It looked like the blue stuff but didn’t want to budge. I ended up heating up the bolts with a pencil torch (open flame tip on a weller soldering torch) for about 30 seconds before attempting to remove them with a T-40. Torque plus bit would definitely help but it was doable with a T-40 and some patience. I had to reheat some of the bolts during removal too, there was a lot of resistance once the bolt cooled off before I could back it all the way off. I stripped one head before I tried the heating method but luckily I was able to get a purchase on it with some vice grips.

 

[Sauce]

Ive now done 8 of them for various purposes and got them all out except for one which I stripped (eventually got it out), but it was a needlessly painful endeavor. the good news is that once you get them out once, the threadlocker wears off and they are much easier to put in and out if you need to do it in the future. The bolts are pretty soft for the torque and threadlocker strength they are using, so they are extremely prone to stripping.

On the one that I stripped, I wound up using a saw and a dremel to square off two sides of the bolthead and used a wrench to get it out from there.

No need for this amount of drama.

 

[shakka]

Ditto to everyone above - After some digging:
Try a Magnetic Induction Bolt Heater - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DK8F3GZ8?th=1
60 seconds to loosen everything up and they come out pretty easily.

 

[BriSco]

One of the benefits of a Line-X spray in bedliner. They removed all of the bolts and tie downs prior to spraying. They plugged the holes before spraying then put the bolts back in snug. The company that the Ford factory uses to do them before delivery just sprays everything.

 

[RaptorRnr]

Ditto to everyone above - After some digging:
Try a Magnetic Induction Bolt Heater - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DK8F3GZ8?th=1
60 seconds to loosen everything up and they come out pretty easily.

I can imagine that would help. It's too bad the bolt heater is not cheaper. I proved I needed the right tool for the job, which I did not have.

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