How to turn off wireless charging???

[hand-filer]

Was able to unplug the wireless charging pad from the harness. No more blistering, hot phone, and no codes thrown.

Why didn't you just pull fuse #3 rather than go to all this trouble?

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[DinoBirdClaws88]

Why didn't you just pull fuse #3 rather than go to all this trouble?

It’s possible the fuse number three also controls other features I’m unaware of-
Pulling any fuse logs an error code. Disconnecting does not (IDK why). After pulling a fuse to disable my active exhaust in my jaguar and the dealership having a shit fit, I decided never again.

 

[hand-filer]

It’s possible the fuse number three also controls other features I’m unaware of-
Pulling any fuse logs an error code. Disconnecting does not (IDK why). After pulling a fuse to disable my active exhaust in my jaguar and the dealership having a shit fit, I decided never again.

While removing a fuse may trigger a fault code in some situations, it does not apply in this case. The charging pad is on it's own separate circuit. Pulling the fuse amounts to the same thing as disconnecting the plug. It's just a lot easier to do.
I'm just pointing out that there is an easier, better way to do this and hopefully prevent others from doing it the hard way.

 

[Satex]

I've never had an issue with phone overheating on 2 different model phones I have had since getting the truck. I use it every morning and evening on my work commute. I am sure others will comment but it sounds like either a phone problem or a faulty pad that should be checked.

Maybe doesn't matter but I have been using Android phones on the pad 99% of the time with under a handful of times an iPhone was on it.

I haven't had a problem either. I've had two Samsung Androids. Both have Otter cases, which have thickish rubber.

My previous Tacoma had a useless wireless charge pad. It wouldn't work unless I removed the phone from the case, which was a pain.

I think the different experiences are interesting, but I'm happy with the Ranger's phone charging.

 

[cghealey]

If you don't want to disassemble the console, you can remove the wireless pad directly. If you look at the bottom of the pad, there's a small "slot" in the bottom center. Take a trim removal tool or small flat-head screwdriver that fits and slide it into that slot, then lever forward a bit. That will release the clip that's holding in the bottom of the pad (you can see the clip in the first image above, bottom center, right behind the fan). You'll know you've released it b/c the pad will pop up a bit. Now you can pull it straight up, there's enough slack to flip it over and unplug it. I had to do this b/c the pad in my original truck was bork'd and Ford "wouldn't throw parts at the problem." I bought my own pad and replaced the broken one with the new one, problem fixed. BTW, thanks, Ford. I found a video online showing how to get the pad out without having to pull things apart, which I was very thankful for.

 

[JJT]

Hi,

I tested both options separately: removing fuse #3, which is dedicated to the wireless charger, and unplugging the charger directly from its base.

In neither case does any warning appear on the dashboard, but when running diagnostics the following fault code is stored:

U020C – Lost Communication With Auxiliary Wireless Charging Module A.

So it seems there is no way to disable or disconnect the device without the system detecting an internal fault.

 

[OxygenMask]

Guys, just pull the fuse!
Fuse #3

 

[RCMUSTANG]

Pretty sure you can disable it with forscan and zero codes will be generated. I had a friend who traded his wheels and forgot about the tpms and I disabled them and no lights or codes. Try that.

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