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Post procal tune tips

superj

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I leave mine in normal mode and drive decent and get better gas mileage then before the tune.

And if you want fun, hit that sport button and hold on
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Pic-N-Stick

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And if you want fun, hit that sport button and hold on
Sport, 4 auto and traction nannies off=WOOHOO! Finally tried turning the traction control off the other day and it definitely pulls harder. What I haven't done and don't trust is launching at 2000 or 2500 rpm's!
 

Switzguy

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I'm going to mess around in Baja mode tomorrow.
Supposedly you can build boost with the brake held at a stop and really launch the thing.
 

Pic-N-Stick

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I'm going to mess around in Baja mode tomorrow.
Supposedly you can build boost with the brake held at a stop and really launch the thing.
I think baja mode locks the rear axles. That and a high rpm launch on pavement would make me cringe...but that's just me.
 

Switzguy

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I think baja mode locks the rear axles. That and a high rpm launch on pavement would make me cringe...but that's just me.
Like I said I'll mess with it.
I think you can turn a lot of that off after you switch modes too.
 

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Lion77

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Whatever you do, dont brakeboost and launch in 2WD! One guy broke his rear axle doing that with a Pro Cal tuned RR on the 0-60 thread. Most Pro Cal tuned trucks were in the mid to low 13 second range, no other mods except in a few cases and IC, but most were still on stock IC too.

One guy managed to eek out a 12.95 with just a Pro Cal tune on a good DA, 5k rpm launch in 4A, then went to 2H at about 1/8th mile on the fly to squeeze out another 1mph trap and shave another 1/10th by reducing parasitic driveline loss.

Quite a few got into 13.6 to 13.4 range just using 4A, 2,500 RPM brake boost launch technique which is definitely less risky than the 5k RPM technique, but hey, he was the fastest of all. Look up the 0-60 thread if your interested.

Brakeboost responsibly!
 

Switzguy

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Oh I believe you, quick google search says DO NOT launch in 2WD.
I'll probably do the 4A and see how it goes.
 

Lion77

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Great question and here's what I got from a google search:


Yes, you can run 87 or 89 octane fuel in an emergency, but you must modify your driving to protect the engine. The Ford Performance ProCal tune explicitly requires a minimum of 91 octane. However, Ford’s factory engine computer (PCM) retains its safety logic and knock sensors even after being flashed.
If you are stuck at a remote gas station with no premium, fill up only what you need to reach a station with premium fuel and follow these strict rules:

Emergency Driving Rules
  • Stay completely out of boost: Do not push the gas pedal past roughly one-quarter throttle. Keep an eye on your boost gauge and ensure the needle stays at or below zero (vacuum).
  • Use Normal or Eco mode: Switch out of Sport or Baja mode immediately. You want the least aggressive throttle mapping and shift schedule possible.
  • Avoid heavy engine loads: Do not tow anything, haul heavy cargo, or climb steep hills while low-octane fuel is in the tank.
  • Do not lug the engine: Low-RPM, high-load situations (like forcing the truck to stay in 10th gear while going up a slight incline) provoke engine knock very easily. Let the transmission downshift freely to keep the RPMs in a relaxed mid-range.

How the Truck Protects Itself
The moment the PCM senses the lower detonation resistance of 87 octane, the knock sensors will fire. The computer will immediately pull ignition timing and lower target boost to prevent destructive pre-detonation (engine knock).
Because the computer has to physically detect the knock before it can pull timing to protect itself, you should not rely on this safety net for regular driving. Prolonged detonation will eventually fatigue internal engine components.
Once you locate a high-quality gas station, top off the tank with 93 octane as soon as there is room to dilute the lower-grade fuel.

So I really wouldn't recommend it unless it's an emergency and you can find another station with premium fuel.
Safer option in my opinion is to just carry your programmer in the truck. It takes maybe 5 - 7 minutes to flash back to stock, so you can flash to factory, run the tank of 87 as needed and refill with 91 or higher later and flash back after all the 87 is out.

All it takes is for someone to forget they are running a pro cal but filled up with 87 and hit the gas too much after turning a corner or merging onto a highway before you hear marbles then come coasting to a stop with a cel and oil coming out the pan cause you just snapped a rod.

Yes you can drive with light throttle and be ok, but in that emergency situation id rather just go back to stock and avoid the risk of damage entirely since the factory cal can retard timing enough to run 87 safely under all conditions.

My first performance car was a 2015 Mustang GT Ecoboost, my first tune was Livernoise 91 tune, but I ran 93 for added safety margine. One day in hot weather I heard it pinging when hitting the gas, let off and on my way home suddenly I got a CEL and the engine started running really rough.

Thought I trashed it! It was detonation for sure, but it only cracked a plug insulator that thankfully stayed on the plug. Replaced the plugs and bought a Ford Performance Pro Cal and flashed it, never heard any pinging again, never had any issues. Eventually traded it in for that 2016 GT cause I wanted more power than the 2.3L could give, but the 2.3L with procal was a lot better than stock and just as reliable.

Livernoise isnt the hottest cals either, so after that point, on a stock bottom end, I concluded the OE cal or Ford Performance ONLY.

Custom tunes should be saved for built bottom ends, big turbos etc. Aka a custom race or performance street engine that can tollerate some tuning mistakes or pushing the limits more than stock pistons, rods, turbos etc.

There were a LOT of 2.3L Mustangs with custom tunes that eventually had failed engines. Not all, but quite a few. There only 1 with a Pro Cal and it was warranty replacement and not related to the cal. The point is, it doesnt take long for a major failure to happen, so running 87 with a Pro Cal in an emergency is still much riskier than flashing back to stock until you can refill with 91 and run a tank of that through first before flashing back to the Pro Cal.

At least thats my opinion on the matter from my experiences with tuned Fords. On my 2016 GT I didnt have that option since the Power Pack also had hardware changes that the stock cal wouldn't work with, so there was no going back and in that case, yah id have to use the "drive it like a grandma method" and you can, but since the RR is only tuning and not hardware, I say flashing it back to stock is worth the 7min of time just to be sure. 10k for a new engine isnt fun!
 
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Pic-N-Stick

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Safer option in my opinion is to just carry your programmer in the truck. It takes maybe 5 - 7 minutes to flash back to stock, so you can flash to factory, run the tank of 87 as needed and refill with 91 or higher later and flash back after all the 87 is out.

All it takes is for someone to forget they are running a pro cal but filled up with 87 and hit the gas too much after turning a corner or merging onto a highway before you hear marbles then come coasting to a stop with a cel and oil coming out the pan cause you just snapped a rod.

Yes you can drive with light throttle and be ok, but in that emergency situation id rather just go back to stock and avoid the risk of damage entirely since the factory cal can retard timing enough to run 87 safely under all conditions.

My first performance car was a 2015 Mustang GT Ecoboost, my first tune was Livernoise 91 tune, but I ran 93 for added safety margine. One day in hot weather I heard it pinging when hitting the gas, let off and on my way home suddenly I got a CEL and the engine started running really rough.

Thought I trashed it! It was detonation for sure, but it only cracked a plug insulator that thankfully stayed on the plug. Replaced the plugs and bought a Ford Performance Pro Cal and flashed it, never heard any pinging again, never had any issues. Eventually traded it in for that 2016 GT cause I wanted more power than the 2.3L could give, but the 2.3L with procal was a lot better than stock and just as reliable.

Livernoise isnt the hottest cals either, so after that point, on a stock bottom end, I concluded the OE cal or Ford Performance ONLY.

Custom tunes should be saved for built bottom ends, big turbos etc. Aka a custom race or performance street engine that can tollerate some tuning mistakes or pushing the limits more than stock pistons, rods, turbos etc.

There were a LOT of 2.3L Mustangs with custom tunes that eventually had failed engines. Not all, but quite a few. There only 1 with a Pro Cal and it was warranty replacement and not related to the cal. The point is, it doesnt take long for a major failure to happen, so running 87 with a Pro Cal in an emergency is still much riskier than flashing back to stock until you can refill with 91 and run a tank of that through first before flashing back to the Pro Cal.

At least thats my opinion on the matter from my experiences with tuned Fords. On my 2016 GT I didnt have that option since the Power Pack also had hardware changes that the stock cal wouldn't work with, so there was no going back and in that case, yah id have to use the "drive it like a grandma method" and you can, but since the RR is only tuning and not hardware, I say flashing it back to stock is worth the 7min of time just to be sure. 10k for a new engine isnt fun!
Makes me wonder if there is a QUALITY octane booster you could keep in your truck in case you have to put 87 or 89 octane gas in it.
 

Switzguy

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I wish flashing the RR wasn't as scary as my m240i.
The only thing is this thing is still under warranty since the dealer installed it. I don't want to risk them voiding it over me doing it myself.
I've flashed my 2018 m240i loads of times and it only takes a few seconds with the MHD phone app.
That thing's running an e50 flex fuel tune and it runs fantastically.
 

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John B

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Lots of good info here, and I'm an old engineer, so I love Lion's attention to detail. RE running lower octane. Ugh...a couple of weekends ago I ended up having to use a crap station that only had 2 versions of regular, 88 and 87. I'm assuming that the 88 was a non ethanol. I only put as little as possible, so 2 gallons on top of 3 gallons of 91 left in the tank. Drove gently as possible (and made sure not to push the engine at all in higher gears at low rpms - always a good to to detonate an engine running high boost). Got down the road and filled up with 93. All was once again well... Lol. All so my wife could visit all the covered bridges of madison county (iowa). Take my word for it, once you've seen a wooden covered bridge, you have pretty much eliminated the need to see the rest unless your hobby is bridge design 😎
 

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Another option is to carry extra fuel. Rotopax 3 gallon, 2x of them. Thats an extra 75 to 100 miles depending on fuel mileage. Only 18lbs for 3 gallons for 36 plus container weight. Ill eventually add that storage capability for offroading just in case. Then carry a bulb siphon. Allows you to also help others too
 
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Makes me wonder if there is a QUALITY octane booster you could keep in your truck in case you have to put 87 or 89 octane gas in it.
Look that up on the YouTube. I have not gone down that badger hole, but it's def a topic that gets alotbof attention. I see the thumbnails all the time.....
 

Lion77

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Ive been known for my absurdly long and massively overly detailed posts, but ive yet to be accused on not giving enough details lol :LOL:
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