Powertrain maintenance - anyone had it done yet?

[josephp732]

That's awesome! A few years ago I would have totally jumped on doing this myself, but I've had some bad luck with vehicles lately and have gotten in over my head or caused more harm than good...

Curious, when disconnecting the transmission lines, do you have to do any sort of bleeding of air after reconnecting them post-fluid change? Thanks for sharing your experience

There are two metal transmission lines running along the passenger side of the transmission. There is a bracket on that side that needs to be unbolted. The lines then cross over the front of the transmission pan, running directly along the area where the front pan bolts are located. They curve upward on the driver’s side, where another bracket secures both lines to the transmission with a single bolt. Simply unbolt that bracket and pull the lines out of the transmission. Each line has two O-rings. Very little fluid came out when I removed the lines.

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[surfstar]

As part of my review of maintenance, I looked at my owner's manual and took a 'snip' and pasted it into my spreadsheet
With occasional towing, I should do the axle and Tcase fluid at 30k, spark plugs at 60k. Not much needed for a long time besides those.

 

[alrashid2]

Always hated the "Severe Conditions" terminology in car owners manuals. Subaru does the same, as I'm sure many others do. What does that even mean? That all sounds like normal driving to me for the average person!

 

[emjay24l]

Always hated the "Severe Conditions" terminology in car owners manuals. Subaru does the same, as I'm sure many others do. What does that even mean? That all sounds like normal driving to me for the average person!

Typically it means towing, carrying heavy loads, etc. often.

 

[josephp732]

“Severe conditions” in an owner's manual is one of those automotive terms that sounds subjective because, to a degree, it is. But it has a specific purpose: it identifies operating conditions that cause fluids and components to deteriorate faster than they would under the manufacturer's normal-use assumptions.

The frustrating part is that manufacturers often put driving habits that are perfectly ordinary for many people into the severe-service category.

What is generally meant by severe service:

• Frequent short trips: The engine doesn't stay warm long enough to evaporate moisture and fuel that accumulate in the oil.
• Stop-and-go traffic: Repeated acceleration, braking and idling increase engine and transmission operating stress.
• Extended idling: The engine accumulating operating hours without accumulating many miles.
• Hot or cold climates: Temperature extremes can accelerate fluid degradation or make components work harder.
• Dusty roads: Dust increases the load on air filtration systems and can contaminate lubricants.
• Towing, hauling or heavy loading: Higher loads increase heat and stress on the engine, transmission, cooling system and drivetrain.
• Mountainous terrain: Sustained climbs and descents can increase engine, transmission and brake demands.
• Repeated low-speed operation: Depending on the vehicle, this can mean less airflow for cooling and more time spent under demanding operating conditions.

Not every manufacturer defines severe service identically. Some classify frequent short trips or extensive idling as severe; others emphasize towing, dust, extreme temperatures or commercial use.

The problem is that severe service is not necessarily severe driving. It can simply mean the vehicle's operating pattern is harder on a particular component than the mileage alone suggests.

And there is another important distinction: severe service can apply differently to different components. A vehicle might need more frequent engine-oil changes because of short trips, more frequent transmission-fluid service because of towing, or more frequent air-filter replacement because of dusty conditions.

 

[alrashid2]

“Severe conditions” in an owner's manual is one of those automotive terms that sounds subjective because, to a degree, it is. But it has a specific purpose: it identifies operating conditions that cause fluids and components to deteriorate faster than they would under the manufacturer's normal-use assumptions.

The frustrating part is that manufacturers often put driving habits that are perfectly ordinary for many people into the severe-service category.

What is generally meant by severe service:

• Frequent short trips: The engine doesn't stay warm long enough to evaporate moisture and fuel that accumulate in the oil.
• Stop-and-go traffic: Repeated acceleration, braking and idling increase engine and transmission operating stress.
• Extended idling: The engine accumulating operating hours without accumulating many miles.
• Hot or cold climates: Temperature extremes can accelerate fluid degradation or make components work harder.
• Dusty roads: Dust increases the load on air filtration systems and can contaminate lubricants.
• Towing, hauling or heavy loading: Higher loads increase heat and stress on the engine, transmission, cooling system and drivetrain.
• Mountainous terrain: Sustained climbs and descents can increase engine, transmission and brake demands.
• Repeated low-speed operation: Depending on the vehicle, this can mean less airflow for cooling and more time spent under demanding operating conditions.

Not every manufacturer defines severe service identically. Some classify frequent short trips or extensive idling as severe; others emphasize towing, dust, extreme temperatures or commercial use.

The problem is that severe service is not necessarily severe driving. It can simply mean the vehicle's operating pattern is harder on a particular component than the mileage alone suggests.

And there is another important distinction: severe service can apply differently to different components. A vehicle might need more frequent engine-oil changes because of short trips, more frequent transmission-fluid service because of towing, or more frequent air-filter replacement because of dusty conditions.

Yes, it becomes very confusing.

It's also more confusing when the interval can jump starkly.

Normal operation? Change front diff fluid at 150k miles. "Severe" driving conditions? Change it at 30k!

No in between!

 

[emjay24l]

Yes, it becomes very confusing.

It's also more confusing when the interval can jump starkly.

Normal operation? Change front diff fluid at 150k miles. "Severe" driving conditions? Change it at 30k!

No in between!

For many years I have done the following:

Oil changes every 5k miles
Transmission fluid every 60k miles
Transfer case every 60k miles
Brake fluid every 60k miles
Differentials every 100k miles
Coolant every 100k miles
Lube fittings every 30k miles where possible

IMO, many of Ford's recommendations should be considered criminal negligence.

 

[Geo8866]

For many years I have done the following:

Oil changes every 5k miles
Transmission fluid every 60k miles
Transfer case every 60k miles
Brake fluid every 60k miles
Differentials every 100k miles
Coolant every 100k miles
Lube fittings every 30k miles where possible

IMO, many of Ford's recommendations should be considered criminal negligence.

You mentioned "Lube Fittings." Are there any zerks that need lubing on a Ranger?

 

[emjay24l]

You mentioned "Lube Fittings." Are there any zerks that need lubing on a Ranger?

There probably aren't any since most newer vehicles don't have them like older vehicles did from the factory. Higher quality replaced ball joints, etc. typically have a grease fitting.

 

[Lion77]

Right on. I guess I'm just a bit anxious as before this, I had a Subaru with the stupid CVT which had an attached Front Differential.

It had 7 different drain/fill/random plugs on it. One night while under it and doing my maintenance, I filled the front diff from the driver's side plug which is an exact mirror image of the passenger side plug - except that the driver's side, despite being on the Diff side and not on the CVT side, internally drains into the transmission instead of the diff...

Ended up driving for a week with an empty diff and an overfilled, contaminated CVT. It was like the engineers purposefully made it confusing so you couldn't DIY. That spooked me a bit!!

The whole problem is that you bought a subaru in the first place . JK.

 

[superj]

Where i live is considered severe duty because summers are over 100 degrees for so long and its so dusty from the wind and beach sand.

I have 10k till my trans is due again. I just did the diff and I do the air filter every oil change (3k-3500) miles and the cabin filter every other oil change.

But since I got that k&n, its just a clean every other oil change

 

[They Call Me Bruce]

There are two metal transmission lines running along the passenger side of the transmission. There is a bracket on that side that needs to be unbolted. The lines then cross over the front of the transmission pan, running directly along the area where the front pan bolts are located. They curve upward on the driver’s side, where another bracket secures both lines to the transmission with a single bolt. Simply unbolt that bracket and pull the lines out of the transmission. Each line has two O-rings. Very little fluid came out when I removed the lines.

Really the lines aren't threaded into the trans, just push-in, the o-rings seal it and the bracket holds in place?

 

[josephp732]

Really the lines aren't threaded into the trans, just push-in, the o-rings seal it and the bracket holds in place?

Correct - just press in with o-rings.

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