Product R&D Time - Ranger Rear Seat Delete

[AdventureLab]

I'll get replies to the questions and comments soon, but short on time and wanted to share this update with you guys.

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[Aemonn]

I'll get replies to the questions and comments soon, but short on time and wanted to share this update with you guys.

Looks great. Looking forward to your tests and pricing. Really interested in making a purchase for my upcoming trip.

 

[crashsordahl23]

I'll get replies to the questions and comments soon, but short on time and wanted to share this update with you guys.

Are the ranger and the raptor the same rear seat or is this just for the raptor.

 

[Aemonn]

Are the ranger and the raptor the same rear seat or is this just for the raptor.

Pretty sure they are the same. I remember seeing threads where ford goofed and sent someone a regular ranger back seat in their raptor around this time last year. You might be able to search and find it. Only difference between the two are the code orange accent colors, perhaps audio components (or lack of) and likely the seat material choice.

 

[BrrRaptor]

I'll get replies to the questions and comments soon, but short on time and wanted to share this update with you guys.

Damn, looks nice! If only I was 5ft tall, I'd slap a cushion on that and use it for my bed when overlanding.

 

[schwartzki]

Very interested in the easy swap out floor option for our 2 dogs on trips as they dislike the seats.

 

[Tinfish]

I'm definitely interested. Looking at the photos, I think you've designed for this already, but my one request would be to not have the platform come so far forward that it would interfere with the front seat recline. Those of us who are tall and keep the seat all the way back and with some recline need that space.

The video above looks great. This is a clean design, nice work!

 

[AdventureLab]

I'm definitely interested. Looking at the photos, I think you've designed for this already, but my one request would be to not have the platform come so far forward that it would interfere with the front seat recline. Those of us who are tall and keep the seat all the way back and with some recline need that space.

The video above looks great. This is a clean design, nice work!

thanks! I'm 6'3", so I'm inherently familiar with what you're talking about. In the photos where the seat is close, it is all the way back. I kept the platform as low as possible to stay below the pivot height of the seats.

 

[AdventureLab]

Pretty sure they are the same. I remember seeing threads where ford goofed and sent someone a regular ranger back seat in their raptor around this time last year. You might be able to search and find it. Only difference between the two are the code orange accent colors, perhaps audio components (or lack of) and likely the seat material choice.

As far as I can tell right now, they are the same. Here are some of the photos one of our commercial clients sent in. I will be delivering and installing a couple of these later this week (or next) and I wanted to make sure the vehicles were the same before I made the drive to Colorado. I can't see any differences.

 

[AdventureLab]

Very interested in the easy swap out floor option for our 2 dogs on trips as they dislike the seats.

After we finalize the install process, I'll get a video put together with a time running. I'm confident I can remove or install in about 10 minutes. It would take an additional 5 minutes or so for the seat. The seat is held in by only 4 bolts, so that makes it pretty easy. Install/remove has been a huge priority since I started the design.

 

[AdventureLab]

Looks great. Looking forward to your tests and pricing. Really interested in making a purchase for my upcoming trip.

thanks!

 

[AdventureLab]

Another big update. I'm trying really hard with the design of this system to make it super easy to install and uninstall. The uninstall process will be as follows:

1. Remove the back wall (if installed)
   1. Remove (7) M6 bolts (4mm allen wrench)
   2. Remove the back wall as one piece
   3. Remove the three upper mounting brackets (OEM bolts using 10mm socket)
   4. If you want to reinstall the child seat safety hooks, now's the time to put those back in. If no child seats will be installed, you won't need to put the hooks back in.
2. Remove the four OEM bolts that previously secured the rear seat (13mm socket)
3. Loosen the remaining attachment bolts - (2) T50 bolts that previously held the seat belts, (4) M4 button head bolts (M4 allen wrench).
4. All of the bolts in the previous step are accessible from the top side of the platform. So, you'll just loosen them (no need to remove). Then, slide the entire platform forward about 20mm and lift up. Then, the entire platform can be removed as a single assembly. It will be easy to store since it is only 40mm thick. Lastly, remove the hardware that secured the platform. You will reuse the two T50 torx bolts to secure the seat belts if you're going back in with the seats.

To reinstall the seat, you'll just need to put the seat back in, secure it with the (4) bolts at the outside corners and reconnect/attach the seat belts. Having the cubby "box" below the seats really made this design work! This will be our all-around best seat delete yet.

I hear you guys loud and clear that you want the ability to easily swap back and forth. We're making that happen! I expect this process to take about 10-15 minutes to swap from seat delete to seats installed. It will take slightly longer for the initial install as there are some nut plates that get installed on the initial install. They stay in after the platform is removed to make subsequent installs faster and easier.

Notice the slots in the "feet" of the attached rendering. That's how it can be installed/removed without fully removing the hardware.

 

[Tinfish]

thanks! I'm 6'3", so I'm inherently familiar with what you're talking about. In the photos where the seat is close, it is all the way back. I kept the platform as low as possible to stay below the pivot height of the seats.

That's ideal news, thank you. Looking forward to seeing the final version of this.

 

[John E Davies]

I LOVE this entire thread! One pretty silly recommendation - in your videos you should either add some actual verbal commentary or kill the stupid repeating hard rock guitar loop, it is pure distraction and makes your videos look juvenile. I unmute them to see if you are saying something, then I have to re-mute to kill the audio! Grrrr.

The rear wall at the sub needs extra room behind it so an owner can add heavy butyl sound insulation to kill vibrations which will RATTLE any bags or their contents. If you don’t leave enough room, then he would have to add it on the front surface, which would destroy its usefulness. Or just ship these with that insulation already installed! Have you tested the sound quality to see if it is acceptable with a full sheet metal enclosure? I personally don’t care much about bass, but many owners do.

Finally, you may have answered this already, if I want to permanently retain the factory rear plastic wall - will the floor go in and out without disturbing it or will it slide under it? That is important to me, I would prefer to be able to buy the floor only, then upgrade later if finances allow.

Thanks once more…

John Davies
Spokane WA USA

 

[AdventureLab]

I'm definitely interested in this. I was keeping an eye on Goose Gear but doesn't seem like they are in any rush to support the Ranger Raptor. What is drawing me in is how you keep mentioning how quick the install is. Most of my build centers around modularity and being able to pull stuff off depending on need. Example, pulling my bed rack in under 30 minutes if I need to haul something.

I've been hesitant with seat deletes in the past because they seem semi-permanent. I like the idea of being able to set up my truck in "off-road mode" for the warm months and then put the seat back in if I need a people hauler or its winter time.

I have to admit, my only concern now would be rattles from the sheet metal or sub distortion from the sheet metal enclosure. My tick is that creaks and rattles drive me crazy. One reason my Gen 3 F150 Raptor drove me crazy. I was chasing rattles constantly.

Looks like the workmanship is there on this product so I'm hopeful!

I genuinely appreciate the transparency displayed here. Authenticity is hard to get in the market these days. Also, really impressed by your teams rapid prototyping skills. Kicking something like this out in less than a month is wild.

Thank you so much for the support! Seriously, this thread has been such a solid example of how online communities should work. I’ve even used it as a “teachable moment” for our Customer Service Team. ? We’ve been talking internally about making this kind of community-driven input part of our standard process for new product development—at least for most products. This back-and-forth has been genuinely helpful on both sides, I think. You all have played a big role in shaping this one.

Honestly, I probably wouldn’t have put so much effort into making this product quick-remove if it hadn’t come up so often in the feedback. Most of our history has been in the Jeep market, where people tend to build their rig one way and stick with it. Maybe that's because no one has made a truly easy quick-remove system before... or maybe Jeep folks just full send their builds more - the truck may excel at multi-purpose better. Either way, the Ranger crowd made it loud and clear: quick-remove matters. We heard you, and we got it done.

As part of our current SOP for new products, every design goes through a multi-department sign-off process—marketing, shipping, assembly, production, coating, etc. The quick-remove solution actually came from Jon, our lead assembly tech. (He’s the kind of guy who can look at 300 bolts and know exactly which one is wrong.) So yeah, even internally, we try to take a collaborative, community-style approach. It’s working well because our team right now is amazing.

Now, about rattles—glad you brought that up. We've already addressed it in the design, and here are a few “premium” touches we’re including:

• No aluminum-to-steel contact. All support rails will be lined with 1/16" thick foam tape. It compresses nearly flat, but acts as a solid vibration barrier. No squeaks, no buzz. Bonus: it also stops galvanic corrosion (though our powder-coated steel helps with that too).
• Compression latches on the access doors to keep them clamped shut nice and tight.
• Spring-loaded anti-rattle backing. The end opposite the latch will be pushed outward slightly by foam tape on the bezel—again, no rattle.
• Same foam treatment on the access door bezels.
• Mil-Spec coating. These will be available raw for the DIY crowd, but we’re pushing hard to offer Mil-Spec coating across the board. That stuff is a beast when it comes to durability and sound deadening: https://milspecliner.com/

Thanks again—seriously. Keep the questions coming if you’ve got more. This has been a blast to work through with you guys.

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