Ranger Raptor on Dyno + Turbo Upgrade

[raomaps]

Didn’t mean to mis quote hp versus PS, for some reason my iPhone does weird things with this app, right in the middle of doing something some screen popped up and your Dyno chart enlarged, and I saw PS as unit of measure—then, I recalled a member from Mexico post your numbers in PS. I’m also squinting reading my phone. I thought your handle was ROOmaps—which I thought was Roo—from kangaroo down under. I looked to see where you were from to see where you were getting 100 octane fuel. It’s getting late and my eyes are getting tired. I spent a decade in Europe—Germany specifically, not that far away on a world view. I can get Sunoco race fuel in octanes from 100 to 118, I just couldn’t afford to drive very far at $12-24 dollars a gallon. It is far more cost effective for me to use $2.80 a gallon e85. Might need to get one of those Longranger 35 gallon fuel tanks.

So here in Romania we have:
91 octane (95ron)
93 octane (98 ron)
100 ron and 102ron
102 ron is pretty expensive but we mostly use 100ron (which is basically a better 93octane)
Hope this helps

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[Ivan Baez]

Fresh 93 fuel. The blue lines are last runs today (474Whp). Red lines are the baseline from when the truck was stock (347Whp). A 127 hp improvement. There was more power to be had, butt, the injector pulse widths were too wide and the fuel pressure dropped from 3600psi to under 3000 psi. It needs more fuel. I tried to overnight a set of injectors and pump from Nostrum a few days ago—but one component of the kit will take up to 3 weeks for them to get from their supplier—I’ll have to wait. The Tuner, Cody from Stanghi.com, thinks there is a lot more to be had with more fuel. video

The video is of the 474whp run. Sounds nice on “normal” exhaust mode. The SPD Cat/downpipes can be heard-kind of a growl- if you compare the video sound from the video at the beginning of this post when it was stock and this one at 474whp. The truck is far more aggressive—in stock video, I could barely tell the Truck’s wheels were moving—in this video, you can see the truck squat and rise under torque. I pick up the truck tomorrow and I will see if I can get a draggy run to compare to the I made when the truck was stock. Thanks to my industry experts: Texas Motorworx, Nathan, Winfield, Kyle, and Nick—for answering all my dumb-assed questions and pointing me in the right direction.

Nice initial result!!, keep us posted in the progress.

 

[BuenaRaptor]

If you haven't solidified tuning, I'm happy to help!

Just tuned 3 of these trucks yesterday!

I’ll be calling you soon!

 

[Goosetuned]

I’ll be calling you soon!

Thank you! I'll be here!

 

[DriftJuice]

Installed the Process West Cold Air Box. The air filter was changed from oiled cotton to an AFE dry media filter.

What's the size/part number for the dry filter?

 

[Raptor Family]

What's the size/part number for the dry filter?

The dry air filter is an AFE 21-60507. It also has size info: 6f x 7-1/2b x 5-1/2t x 7h in

 

[BigMeatsBronco]

I believe you are referencing the DSR group and Turbosmart down under. DSR added a big injector just in front of the intake manifold—which made our “Dry” intake manifold “”Wet”. Probably keeps the intake valves clean.

I’m looking more local. Nostrum makes an “X” series kit that comes with the Goliath Hipressure fuel pump, new DI injectors, stainless lines and adapters to fit our trucks. The kit is $5k and seems to be the only game in town. I cringe at that price, but it might be where I have to go next. I Dyno and tune this Thursday. I should know more then. If I make my target numbers, I think I’ll just drive it for a while. I need to get my suspension done next.

On the Bronco 6g forum, couple of guys are considering using the 2.7 manifolds with port injection on the 3.0, for getting more fuel. Uncertain, if you would need to use the 2.7 p c m

 

[Ironwood]

We just did 495whp on Garrett Powermax Turbos with 93 octane. I believe you should do it, and then after getting the fuel upgrade do more ! good luck with your project

I find it odd that your HP and torque don't cross at 5252. I thought that was a physics rule.

 

[Goosetuned]

I find it odd that your HP and torque don't cross at 5252. I thought that was a physics rule.

Torque scale is off. Use the HP to back calculate real torque values.

This happens for various reasons related to the dyno not being setup properly.

 

[Raptor Family]

UPDATE---since last year

For those of you still following; My 2025 Ranger Raptor has been upgraded last October with:

Garrett Powermax Turbos
Process West Stage 2 Intercooler, Charge/Crossover pipes, and Cold Air Intake with AFE Dry media
SPD Catted Down pipes
SPD 170degree Thermostat
Turbo Smart BOV
IAG AOS Air Oil Separator
Mishimoto Extended CapacityTransmission Pan
Process West Transmission Cooler

Truck was Dyno/Tuned locally with HP Tuner MP4IV, by Cody Cutforth at StangHi Performance

The truck made about 474whp and 474lbft of Torque. This was in Oct 2025

We could not make more power because of a lack of fuel. Fuel pressure dropped, and the injector pulse width was maxed out and could not inject more fuel--there was no excess capacity to even try ethanol. We ordered the Nostrum "X" series kit with the Goliath high pressure Fuel pump and Stage 3 Direct Injectors. Since we had to increase the fuel system capacity, we decided to make a tune for ethanol. The manufacturer of the fuel system had about a month backlog. The Tune was limited for safety until we could get the new fuel system delivered and installed.

Truck spent almost the entire month of November in the Ford dealership for Airbag recall, and warranty of broken driveshaft. In between the visits, a 35 gallon Long Range America fuel tank was installed--but I learned real quickly that the 2025 truck's gauges could not be reprogramed for the additional capacity as the 2024 U.S. and worldwide models could be using Forscan--had to reprogram ECM.

In December, the pump and Injectors arrived. The boys at Nostrum, Frank and Nick, run a class act. Their products arrived so well packed, and every piece has its own serial number (pump and each Injector). The kit is built to the highest caliber--when you see it in person, it is understandable why it costs so much.

The injectors are individually wrapped

The pump looks like a piece of jewelry

The entire top of the engine has to come off for installation

Special tools to install the injector seals, not so much to install them on the injector (they come installed--but the long tapered tools spread the seal to install them on the injector. You need this kit because you have to shrink/swedge the teflon seal to install the injector in the cylinder head.

Installation kit hardware

Truck was sent to Texas Motorworx (TMX) for Pump and Injector Installation (thanks Conner and Nick). At the same time the pump and injectors where installed, NGK Ruthenium plugs, a heat range colder, and gapped to .026" (as recommended from Dirt Derrick, and Adam at ZFG) were installed.

Engine was reassembled and a basic tune was installed so it could start. Because of scheduling, truck stayed at TMX for 2 weeks waiting for slot with Cody at StangHi (Dyno/Tuner). Truck finally arrived at tuner 3rd week of January 2026--and then if you all remember the weather, we had a horrible cold spell come through Texas, which meant that the dyno couldn't run because the temperature was below 40 degrees.

End result: I finally got my truck back last week--don't think the truck was just stranded there for months, I knew ahead of time what the schedule was and needed extra work done; my ECM programed for the 35 gallon fuel tank--which nobody I know of has been able to do anywhere--before somebody comments to use Forscan, read the other posts, Forscan doesn't work on 2025+ trucks--has to be programed in the ECM computer. We also did a low octane tune for when I'm in Baja, a 93 octane tune when I am driving cross country and can't find ethanol, and an ethanol (e85) tune for running around the DFW area where e85 is all over.

So, without rambling on here is the latest dyno chart.

The Red lines are 93 octane, 337whp, and bone stock, at just under 2000miles on truck
What is missing here, is the October tune, at the beginning of this post, where we made 474who and 474lbft of torque with turbos, cats, intercooler, etc, at about 2500miles on truck
The Blue lines 93 octane, 490whp are after the Nostrum "X" series fuel system and Ruthenium plugs at about 3500miles on truck
Green lines are e85, 540whp and were at the same time as above.

Here is truck at speed on the dyno, on 93 octane tune

Lessons learned: Don't modify a brand new truck. There are slight year to year changes that the aftermarket doesn't quite know when the new year first drops--sometimes you wind up being the guinea pig.

The engine has a lot more power capability. We didn't go for peak numbers and tried to get the highest, and flatest torque curve over the entire rpm range. There is more to be had. If you look at the charts, on e85, I barely sacrificed torque beginning at about 2750rpm (about 150rpm higher than the original torque beginning at about 2600rpm)--that is negligible and better than any other performance vehicle I've owned and built. All the power made is right in the zone where a street and Offroad vehicle need it most--it makes over 450lbft of torque from about 3400rpm all the way through about 6300rpm. That 3000rpm power band where the boost starts spooling hard is right where you spend all of your time driving at. A huge part of the curve is over 500lbft of torque.

In tuning, there appears to be a hard stop somewhere in the 2025 computer for the waste gates and the blowoff valve, I don't remember the exact number the tuner told me, but I think it was 30 or 32psi that it won't allow us to go over--at some point they will crack it and I'll get another tune At present--I tried to look at the dash gauge to see where at what psi boost stopped--but, its about all I can do to look where I'm going and turn the steering wheel when I am at max boost. I want to know, but I don't want to crash to find out--next time I have the wife or kid with me, I'll have them watch the boost gauge.

E85 is about 100-105 octane, it can take way more boost and timing. But, for right now, we are just going leave the engine where it is and just drive it--it still doesn't have 4k miles on it yet. We have some Offroad Events, Baja Runs, and Texas Raptor Runs we want to attend this summer and are hoping to make Domo next week. We are waiting for the new Fox Racing shocks we have pre-ordered to arrive and we can build out our suspension, steering, bump stops, wheels, etc.

E85 is harder to get during cold weather, and can be as low as e55 at the pumps at different times of the year. We can use our HP tuner MPVI4, the TDN (Tune Delivery Network) with our cell phone to change the tune back to 93 octane, or lower gas if we can't find e85 or the quality is poor--or the temperature is too low to run (it can be hard to start a cold engine on ethanol in the winter).

How does the truck run? My wife is not a car girl--she jumps in it, pushes the button and drives it everywhere. It has such docile manners, you would never know it was modified--until you smash the gas pedal--then, all hell breaks loose. Driving down the highway in normal exhaust mode, it is barely louder than factory (SPD Catted Down Pipes only have a growl when you are on the throttle). In Baja exhaust mode it is slightly louder getting up to speed, but if you don't have your foot into it, it sounds stock--at steady speed, its actually pretty quiet. If you floor it, it comes alive. Driving on the highway, and I'm on the phone, or talking to a passenger, I put it in quiet mode and it is almost dead quiet. There is no exhaust drone in any mode.

I have mainly been driving in full Baja Driving mode with the Rear Locker unlocked, Sport Steering and Baja Shocks and Exhaust--(that is my saved "R" mode). In that mode, it keeps the turbos spooled when you let off throttle, so when you get back on the gas, the power is instantaneous. It holds gear changes longer and shifts more aggressive, with rpm matched downshifts. From a dead stop, if you floor it, it doesn't spin the tires immediately, first, it pulls pretty hard until the turbos start to really spool just below 3000rpm. From 3000rpm all the way to redline, the traction control will keep the truck perfectly straight and predictably confident with the tires spinning all the way up to 40-50mph. 540whp is what you get at the wheel--after all parasitic loss--it's the power to the ground, and it makes the drive a lot more fun--but it requires a lot more attention.

In Baja Drive mode, it has no auto engine stop--mine was programed out at all levels by tuner anyway. It used to get about 15.5 MPG on 93octane when it was at 475whp. now, on e85, it gets about 10.4 MPG--at 540whp, which is about right. Ethanol, by volume does 30 percent less work than equal amounts of gasoline. With the 35 gallon fuel tank, it can drive about 565miles on a tank of 93 octane, and about 363miles on e85--stock, it could only do 287miles on a full tank of 93.

What's in the future? Possibly get my turbos reworked by Nathan at Dirt Derrick. He was the first to have the Garrett Powermax turbos modified by Turbo Bay (I believe that's their name). They increased the inducer and exducer wheel sizes and made considerably more power--I think he peaked at 714whp on Nostrum's dyno in Michigan. He offers that upgrade on his website. I also saw just this past week, Winfield from Goosetuned, helped one of his customers use those modified turbos on their truck, again on Nostrum's dyno, and produced high numbers as well. Adam from ZFG tuning (who tunes all of Nathan's vehicles) made a You tube video describing those modified turbos. After listening to him, I am kind of waiting to see what is next. I want torque down as low as possible and zero turbo lag for off road use. Adam spoke about trying to make a compromise modified turbo that sacrifices some high rpm power for virtually zero, or small permissible turbo lag and more lower rpm power.

Very soon I am going to need transmission work. In my build, I added a 2 quart extra capacity Mishimoto transmission pan, and the Process West auxiliary Trans cooler--all in the hopes of extending the life of the transmission by keeping the heat down. I spoke with an engineer at Suncoast Transmissions (the experts at building these transmissions) about rebuilding my transmission with one of their high-performance kits. He told me to save my money and wait until I burned it up first. So that is my plan. For those of you that made it this far, I hope I gave you some benefit for your time.

 

[FlyGuyRR]

@Raptor Family this is an awesome write-up. Excellent recap of your mods and process through the build! I’m going to have to pick your brain on the long range tank!

Your truck looks amazing and those are some impressive numbers!!!

 

[DirtDerrick]

Great post/update!

Plenty enough power for lots of speeding tickets, tq perfect for keeping tranny happy.

Not being negative, but my mind goes to fixing the fuel tank reading, & what happened to the driveshaft? If it was like mine, the rust stopped holding it together. You actually got a painted one.

Are you finished, or more coming, you're getting close to running out of parts to buy!

 

[Raptor Family]

@Raptor Family this is an awesome write-up. Excellent recap of your mods and process through the build! I’m going to have to pick your brain on the long range tank!

Your truck looks amazing and those are some impressive numbers!!!

FlyGuyRR,
Thanks for the compliment—you want to know about the Long Range America 35 gallon tank? If I could go back to the beginning, the first mod I would buy is that tank. Our trucks only have 20.3 gallons from the factory. We wind up with less than a 300 mile range. With that tank, you get over 500–mine said 565 miles to empty on 93 octane. It’s not super hard to install, but it is a lot easier to do on a lift with a transmission jack. Takes about 6 hours with skilled (the shop I used had installed several of these tanks before in F150s, Super Duties and one Ranger Raptor)—it still takes them 6 hours.
I purchased my tank from the manufacturers distributor in Boise Idaho last year during Black Friday. I paid less than $2400 including taxes and delivery. I saved $200 by not having residential delivery and sending it to a commercial address—the shop I had do the work. If you have a 2025+ truck, you will need to have a tuner program the gallon capacity in the ECM to have correct gauge readings. Your fuel gauge, distance to empty, and mileage won’t be correct until you do.

 

[Raptor Family]

Great post/update!

Plenty enough power for lots of speeding tickets, tq perfect for keeping tranny happy.

Not being negative, but my mind goes to fixing the fuel tank reading, & what happened to the driveshaft? If it was like mine, the rust stopped holding it together. You actually got a painted one.

Are you finished, or more coming, you're getting close to running out of parts to buy!

Nathan,
It’s funny you mention getting speeding tickets—my wife bought me a new Escort 360 and a mirror mount for Xmas.

My driveshaft was never rusty—it was bare steel, because my truck has never been in the rain. It has spent most of the 8 months I’ve owned it in various shops having work done. The shaft started clanking and spewed the grease out of the U-joint, Ford warrantied it with another bare steel replacement. When I had it over at TMX on a lift, I was bitching about how Ford didn’t even paint our driveshafts—one of the guys there immaculately masked off the shaft, around all the stickers and painted it like you see in the pictures.

I’m far from being done. We now make enough power we need to just start driving it and taking it out to Baja and Raptor runs this summer. Have to finish suspension. The new Fox Factory Racing shocks that I pre-ordered, 74 Weld stage 1 steering box kit, Foutz Billet control arm, Lower control arm lockouts, steering arm ball joint kit, charged weld on bump-stop/over travel limit strap kit , and Solo Motorsports weld on lower control arm double shear bracket kit. New wheels. Etc

 

[FlyGuyRR]

@Raptor Family, it’s sounds like you have already worked with @DirtDerrick, but give him a chance to show you all his knowledge about tranny’s and you might come with a rock solid polished driveshaft! Lol, terrible attempt to make a play on words there. Anyways, I’m super happy with the Suncoast build Nathan helped me with, and his new one-piece driveshaft is seriously a piece of art and looks amazing under the truck compared to that puny, rusted, crap Ford installs from the factory.

Thank you for the info about the tank, that’s exactly what I was looking for. We just did a 3000 mile road trip out west in this truck and I was getting about 250-275 miles per tank averaging 80-90mph on the interstate on 93/91octane. I wasn’t super impressed. Now that I am on ethanol, I basically have a fuel stop planned in to my schedule everyday to every other day at the longest interval. It’s fun to drive, but holy hell is the MPG terrible and cold starting is a nightmare!!!! Anyways, I think I know just the guy,@Goosetuned to help tweak the ECU for the larger tank, once I get to that stage of my build.

I’m going to need your parts list for the suspension build!

I’m going to DM you though so I don’t hijack your build thread anymore than I already have.

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