Signature LUX Amber DRL Install - DIY How-To Writeup w/ Instructions & Photos

[MAV]

Having watched the videos and read the previous threads and install tips, I finally got around to installing mine over the weekend, and TLDR: removing tires and fender liners is The Way™.

Removing the tires and fender liners takes about 10 minutes per side, and once everything is out of the way - including the horns on both sides (more on that later), you have easy access to the DRL module. There is no need to access anything from the top side (except the horn bracket bolt - again, more on that later), no need to loosen the fender bolts, no need for small hands to access screws, and very little risk of losing a screw if it falls. It's also very easy to access the electrical connections to remove and reinstall without stressing the connectors or breaking the black bracket.

Here are some pictures I was able to get during my installation process...

This is the passenger side view after removing the wheel and fender liners but before removing the horn. Someone mentioned the top bracket nut doesn't want to come off (you can see my ratchet wrench on this nut). Well, there's a good reason for that...

It's spot-welded to the bracket! You can see I already rounded off the nut before I realized what the problem was and actually checked the top side to see the bolt that was easy to access from under the hood. Remove that 8mm bolt from under the hood and the horn can be moved completely out of the way or disconnected and removed altogether.

Once the horn is out of the way, you have plenty of room to work. I had already purchased the flexible shaft tool that everyone talks about (ten bucks on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D6TQLFQG), and it does make it a little easier to access the outermost screws, but as you'll see on the driver's side photos later, it's not necessary.

Here's the hardest part, and it's really not that hard if you have the little tool in the following picture. You cannot see the top innermost screw from below. It is located where my finger is in the above photo. You'll need to feel around with your finger and use the thumbscrew tool below to remove and later install this screw. I think I have read that this one is also the hardest one to access if you're installing from the top, so I don't have a frame of reference for the compared difficulty. Get the small tool, and you can easily remove and replace this screw once you feel around and figure out where it is.

Six bucks at Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09JBDVSBH

This is how it fits into the space you have to access that top screw. Not too bad at all, and the screws are only finger tight.

These two images show the connector that some have had issues with. The first image is dark, but the black bracket is still connected. I needed both hands, so I couldn't take photos of how it comes off, but it will slide straight out of the back with a little bit of wiggling. It's not very tight. Once it is off, use your thumbnail and push it into the gap shown in the second photo above to depress the small tabs you can also see facing the camera. Wiggle it a bit, and the connector comes apart easily.

These two photos show the amount of heatsink compound I used and the installed amber LED module. The factory modules were aluminum, but the Signature Lux modules were copper. I did not have to break any tabs on the module to install.

Final result on the passenger's side.

There is even more room on the driver's side, and I didn't use the flex tool at all on this side.

Another picture of the electric connector on the driver's side showing the tabs that need to be depressed in order for them to release the connection.

That's pretty much it. I was expecting a much more difficult installation, but the removal of the tire and fender liners made it very easy. Any questions, just ask!

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[smokinjoe64]

@MAV many thanks for the comprehensive step-by-step + clear, key illustrations.
Been stalling on this project due to the unsavory, multiple 'workarounds', risks, and enormous time required based on other postings; that along with big paws and no helper.

Curious...

• Estimated time per side?
• Solo install or w/help?

Well done!

 

[MAV]

I took my time (by myself), so it probably took about 4 hours total. If I had to do it again right now and I was in a hurry, I could get the whole job done in a little over an hour. But a lot of that comes from the experience of doing it just once. You don't know what you don't know when you first start a project like this.

 

[smokinjoe64]

% concur…with that, your approach and results inspires more confidence this is reasonably ‘doable solo’.
Thanks again

 

[Ag3ntC00p3r]

Having watched the videos and read the previous threads and install tips, I finally got around to installing mine over the weekend, and TLDR: removing tires and fender liners is The Way™.

Removing the tires and fender liners takes about 10 minutes per side, and once everything is out of the way - including the horns on both sides (more on that later), you have easy access to the DRL module. There is no need to access anything from the top side (except the horn bracket bolt - again, more on that later), no need to loosen the fender bolts, no need for small hands to access screws, and very little risk of losing a screw if it falls. It's also very easy to access the electrical connections to remove and reinstall without stressing the connectors or breaking the black bracket.

Here are some pictures I was able to get during my installation process...

This is the passenger side view after removing the wheel and fender liners but before removing the horn. Someone mentioned the top bracket nut doesn't want to come off (you can see my ratchet wrench on this nut). Well, there's a good reason for that...

It's spot-welded to the bracket! You can see I already rounded off the nut before I realized what the problem was and actually checked the top side to see the bolt that was easy to access from under the hood. Remove that 8mm bolt from under the hood and the horn can be moved completely out of the way or disconnected and removed altogether.

Once the horn is out of the way, you have plenty of room to work. I had already purchased the flexible shaft tool that everyone talks about (ten bucks on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D6TQLFQG), and it does make it a little easier to access the outermost screws, but as you'll see on the driver's side photos later, it's not necessary.

Here's the hardest part, and it's really not that hard if you have the little tool in the following picture. You cannot see the top innermost screw from below. It is located where my finger is in the above photo. You'll need to feel around with your finger and use the thumbscrew tool below to remove and later install this screw. I think I have read that this one is also the hardest one to access if you're installing from the top, so I don't have a frame of reference for the compared difficulty. Get the small tool, and you can easily remove and replace this screw once you feel around and figure out where it is.

Six bucks at Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09JBDVSBH

This is how it fits into the space you have to access that top screw. Not too bad at all, and the screws are only finger tight.

These two images show the connector that some have had issues with. The first image is dark, but the black bracket is still connected. I needed both hands, so I couldn't take photos of how it comes off, but it will slide straight out of the back with a little bit of wiggling. It's not very tight. Once it is off, use your thumbnail and push it into the gap shown in the second photo above to depress the small tabs you can also see facing the camera. Wiggle it a bit, and the connector comes apart easily.

These two photos show the amount of heatsink compound I used and the installed amber LED module. The factory modules were aluminum, but the Signature Lux modules were copper. I did not have to break any tabs on the module to install.

Final result on the passenger's side.

There is even more room on the driver's side, and I didn't use the flex tool at all on this side.

Another picture of the electric connector on the driver's side showing the tabs that need to be depressed in order for them to release the connection.

That's pretty much it. I was expecting a much more difficult installation, but the removal of the tire and fender liners made it very easy. Any questions, just ask!

Is the black bracket you referenced on the wiring connector just some sort of strain relief? You mentioned it just pulls back to release it. I'm guessing it will be more clear when I see it, but does it swing off because it isn't a complete piece (U-shaped instead of enclosed rectangular piece)? In the pics with just the white connector I don't see it slid up the wiring loom or anywhere else.

 

[MAV]

I think it is just a strain relief, or perhaps a pin locking mechanism of some sort. When you pull it straight up and out, you'll see it has some "fingers" that slide down into the connector which may serve to lock the two connectors together in some way. It's only latched by two small side pieces that will let go if you wiggle and pull straight out. The reason people have such a hard time with it is because it's hard to get two hands in there to hold the module while fiddling with the bracket and connectors.

I got lucky and didn't break it on either side. It all went back together smoothly for me.

 

[NASSTY]

The black thingy is just a little locking clip. It's very fragile, it seems like quite a few people broke them trying to remove them. It's not really needed anyway. The white connector has locking tabs on it.

 

[Texas Ranger]

Thanks so much for this detailed walk through, I really appreciate this!

 

[Fawnbuster]

Having watched the videos and read the previous threads and install tips, I finally got around to installing mine over the weekend, and TLDR: removing tires and fender liners is The Way™.

Removing the tires and fender liners takes about 10 minutes per side, and once everything is out of the way - including the horns on both sides (more on that later), you have easy access to the DRL module. There is no need to access anything from the top side (except the horn bracket bolt - again, more on that later), no need to loosen the fender bolts, no need for small hands to access screws, and very little risk of losing a screw if it falls. It's also very easy to access the electrical connections to remove and reinstall without stressing the connectors or breaking the black bracket.

Here are some pictures I was able to get during my installation process...

This is the passenger side view after removing the wheel and fender liners but before removing the horn. Someone mentioned the top bracket nut doesn't want to come off (you can see my ratchet wrench on this nut). Well, there's a good reason for that...

It's spot-welded to the bracket! You can see I already rounded off the nut before I realized what the problem was and actually checked the top side to see the bolt that was easy to access from under the hood. Remove that 8mm bolt from under the hood and the horn can be moved completely out of the way or disconnected and removed altogether.

Once the horn is out of the way, you have plenty of room to work. I had already purchased the flexible shaft tool that everyone talks about (ten bucks on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D6TQLFQG), and it does make it a little easier to access the outermost screws, but as you'll see on the driver's side photos later, it's not necessary.

Here's the hardest part, and it's really not that hard if you have the little tool in the following picture. You cannot see the top innermost screw from below. It is located where my finger is in the above photo. You'll need to feel around with your finger and use the thumbscrew tool below to remove and later install this screw. I think I have read that this one is also the hardest one to access if you're installing from the top, so I don't have a frame of reference for the compared difficulty. Get the small tool, and you can easily remove and replace this screw once you feel around and figure out where it is.

Six bucks at Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09JBDVSBH

This is how it fits into the space you have to access that top screw. Not too bad at all, and the screws are only finger tight.

These two images show the connector that some have had issues with. The first image is dark, but the black bracket is still connected. I needed both hands, so I couldn't take photos of how it comes off, but it will slide straight out of the back with a little bit of wiggling. It's not very tight. Once it is off, use your thumbnail and push it into the gap shown in the second photo above to depress the small tabs you can also see facing the camera. Wiggle it a bit, and the connector comes apart easily.

These two photos show the amount of heatsink compound I used and the installed amber LED module. The factory modules were aluminum, but the Signature Lux modules were copper. I did not have to break any tabs on the module to install.

Final result on the passenger's side.

There is even more room on the driver's side, and I didn't use the flex tool at all on this side.

Another picture of the electric connector on the driver's side showing the tabs that need to be depressed in order for them to release the connection.

That's pretty much it. I was expecting a much more difficult installation, but the removal of the tire and fender liners made it very easy. Any questions, just ask!

Thanks for the great write up and links!

Whats the process to remove the inner fender liner and about how long does it take? I haven't received my RR yet so I don't have a reference to look at yet. Wondering if there are YT videos of your new process.

I am with your train of thought, work smarter not harder. I would rather do it your way with less chance of breaking something just to reduce the tear down time.

Edit: does the heatsink compound come with the amber module?

 

[J.Dub]

Thank you for this. I just got mine in the mail. Your post will be very useful.

 

[MAV]

Whats the process to remove the inner fender liner and about how long does it take?

There are two liners, inner and outer. The inner comes out first by removing all of the 7mm screws that hold them together plus a dozen or so of the plastic "screw-type" push pins. It will come all the way out and can be set aside.

The outer liner is held by more of the plastic push pins and a couple of torx bolts toward the front of the fender flare. Take out all the front and top pins, leaving the connections in the back of the wheel well, slide the liner out from between the fender and the fender flare, and just fold it back behind the shock and suspension out of your way. No need to remove all the pins that hold the back part on.

Edit: does the heatsink compound come with the amber module?

Yes, but some have reported that it got wedged in the box somewhere and they didn't find it until they looked again. You have WAYYY more in that syringe than you need. Just a thin layer like in my photos is plenty.

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