Zero offset does fit but.....

[Onceaneagle]

Aesthetics lol

Zero lift, yet. Its gonna get a leveling kit soon

Never leveled a truck. Totally ignorant. What does it do for performance, handing, visibility, towing?

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[ColeTrainsRR]

Never leveled a truck. Totally ignorant. What does it do for performance, handing, visibility, towing?

Looks, ground clearance, allow gor bigger tires. I dont tow much.

 

[JrHDRanger]

I’d like to put 35” KO3’s on my Ranger Raptor. Tire Rack has them in a 315/70R17. I would put them on new rims and 2” perch collar in the front and 1” in the rear. Haven’t been able to find anyone who has installed them in 35 size yet though. I’d rather them not stick out past the edge of the fender flare. Not sure what kind of offset I would need or if it’s even doable with that tire?

 

[pasali]

I have that size on my RR, but I went with KO2’s because I wanted to stick with load range C (softer) tires. Mine are mounted on Method 708’s at +25mm offset and they stick out past the fender flares about 1/2”-1”.
If you want zero poke you have to stick with the stock +55mm offset, but that creates interference with UCA with such a wide tire. 35x11 on +25mm offset wheels would achieve what you want, but not many tires offered in that size, especially in a load range C.

 

[stemplar]

So if I got it, mounting a +35 rim instead of an OEM +55 with the same sized OEM tires actually moves the tires 20mm outward 0.79 inch, slightly widening stance. So other than looks, what does this do for handling? And where exactly is zero? Is that the edge of the wheel well?

Here's a good explanation of how offset affects scrub radius, and in turn (pun intended), steering feel and vehicle handling:
https://tirecalculatorhub.com/guides/scrub-radius-guide

 

[Tomikaze]

Can you post a high def photo of the jump? If you don't mind. Would like that as a screen saver

 

[superj]

Never leveled a truck. Totally ignorant. What does it do for performance, handing, visibility, towing?

zero for performance, handling, and makes your truck squat more when towing.

visibility.... uhh, i am sure it gives you an inch or so more view over smaller cars but really nothing you will notice. i kind of think it also negatively effects your aerodynamics but it would be so small its possibly not actually effected.

for looks though, it makes your truck look bigger.

 

[Texas Ranger]

I’d like to put 35” KO3’s on my Ranger Raptor. Tire Rack has them in a 315/70R17. I would put them on new rims and 2” perch collar in the front and 1” in the rear. Haven’t been able to find anyone who has installed them in 35 size yet though. I’d rather them not stick out past the edge of the fender flare. Not sure what kind of offset I would need or if it’s even doable with that tire?

Those K03's are only in F ply, it's going to be a very uncomfortable ride.

 

[cc1999]

Those K03's are only in F ply, it's going to be a very uncomfortable ride.

Not to mention how heavy they will be devouring power and guaranteed significant fuel milage penalties as well. I saw a 2 mpg drop with 34” load range E 10 ply tires vs the stock size 33” 4 ply tires.

 

[Lion77]

So if I got it, mounting a +35 rim instead of an OEM +55 with the same sized OEM tires actually moves the tires 20mm outward 0.79 inch, slightly widening stance. So other than looks, what does this do for handling? And where exactly is zero? Is that the edge of the wheel well?

More importantly it changes scrub radius.

Trouble Shooter | Scrub Radius | Aftermarket Wheels and Tires

There's a decent explanation. Scrub is affected by both wheel off-set and tire / wheel size. A larger diameter tire / wheel will provide a more positive scrub radius, as do wider of-set tires.

So, increasing tire size and wheel off-set have similar effects. Most rear-drive vehicles like trucks have a positive scrub, partially to compensate for squat at the rear which also causes lift on the front end. Larger tires and wider off-set wheels BOTH increase scrub, having a compound amplifying effect.

"A moderate increase in tire wear, increased steering feedback and braking instability are some of the negative effects that may be experienced when positive scrub radius is increased. Positive scrub ratio can be reduced by increasing tire size. Very large tires on stock wheels may produce negative scrub radius. This can cause vehicle wandering and a lack of steering input on a RWD vehicle. It may be possible to offset changes to scrub radius caused be wheel and tire changes by adjusting the toe setting. But this will be a compromise at best."

So, if your running larger diameter tires, sticking with factory off-set wheels would be a good pairing to partially off-set in the increase in scrub (assuming the tire width isn't so wide it can't clear the UCA). But then you're going to need a lift, which increases the CG and because the front a-arms are at a greater angle, your also increasing roll center (jacking forces during corner that make the truck lean).

Ideally, if your running larger tires and need a lift, you should also pair that with factory off-set wheels AND revised UCA's like GOATS to get as much of a proper geometry as you can, I believe the GOAT UCA's have longer ball pins to correct the roll center.

Wider off-set wheels also have the effect of lowering the CG, so the combination of increasing wheel off-set and lifting keeps the CG relatively close to factory, at the expense of scrub.

I'm of the opinion that slightly wider off-set wheels are fine on stock tires and ride height as there's only a moderate change in scrub, with no other changes. But if your running larger tires, you need the WHOLE package (lift for proper tire clearance at full compression, UCA's to correct the front geometry including roll center, and sticking with factory off-set wheels to compensate for the effects of scrub with larger tires).

Back in my Mustang GT days, I did a moderate lowering spring kit, only 1.5" front, 1" rear. Preserved factory rake becuase with 470 HP, there was some squat and under full send, I wanted to maintain straight line stability. I did run 1/16th tow out on that car since it was more track focused than drag racing oriented, but at the time I wasn't aware of the effects of roll center.

After lowering, it felt like the car wanted to suddenly tip over on 90~100 mph high speed sweepers. I knew that wasn't possible given how low the CG was, but it made the car twitchy. I eventually learned about roll center and realized I needed roll center corrected front trailing arms (dual ball joint front ends on the Mustangs and Camaros). That completely fixed the "tippy feeling" a stabilized the car in corners.

I also ran a moderately wider off-set wheel than stock (I believe it was 10mm), so I could go from a 255 / 275 front rear to a four square 275 / 275 setup, making it more palatable for tire longevity as I regularly drove it on the street as well. That increased the sensitivity to road imperfections, sometimes I would get a bit of a pull with deeper groves on the road it didn't have stock.

It wasn't a lot, but noticeable. Just be careful when changing suspension parts. People do a lot of really dumb things that make handling dynamics worse because they don't understand the implications of what they are doing. Be smart about it, know what you're getting into, the benefits but also the trade-offs.

Based on feedback from users on this from, a +35mm offset doesn't affect scrub enough to make a significant difference, but the wider you go, the more your altering scrub and you don't want that wheel yanking left or right at 50~70 mph on a baja run, especially over jumps! The factory scrub is about as ideal as it can get.

For me, I'm planning on swapping out the stock Bead Locks for stock Alloys and then having them painted in Cerakote Midnight Bronze, which 1. preserves geometry 2. sheds about 40lbs of unsprung weight 3. preserves scrub radius 4. gives the truck a unique factory-like look that's not "too much" or screams "super modded truck"

For my uses, I don't need bead lockers or even method bead grips since I won't really have a need for pressures lower than 15~20 psi. I'm more into preserving the trucks high speed baja nature than making it a trail truck for level 7+ trails. For baja type use on dirt roads, that's 30 psi front, 28 psi rear like Ford Performance runs at the Raptor Assaults school. For the sand dunes at silver lake, its 15~20 psi but no lower since there's big open spaces to hit 50~70 mph (also don't want a pinch flat when jumping it).

 

[Lion77]

Also be aware that leveling the truck with make it wander under acceleration and braking. You may lose some weight transfer as well on launches. I'd recommend a "mild level" of only 1" so you have a very small, nearly imperceptible rake, at least you'll maintain most the handling characteristics but make that front look a bit taller.

Take a look at the GOAT article about all things suspension on the RR (at least in terms of lifting or leveling).

The Ultimate Guide to Lifting Your Ranger Raptor

BTW, THIS is what the RR was built for!!!

 

[Lion77]

If I might ask, did you have any significant issues with the bottom-out on that landing? I see you are on hard packed dirt, not sand, to my eyes, that looks to be around 2-3 feet in the air.

Based on the information, the suspension is stock, the tires are the stock KO3 33's. I often see people modding the crap out of their truck, but then something gets messed up and it doesn't work as intended.

It think there's a gross underestimation as to the amount of engineering that's already in the truck!

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