Sub install behind rear seat!

[josh2201]

Tight fit! I think I got about as much bass as you can without modifying the interior or having a box sitting on your back seat.

Tight to the seat but the deep grille provides the space for the impressive excursion on this thing. After mounting the sub to the box, I was really skeptical about it fitting, but, it does with 0 playroom. Hertz mps250. Would recommend! Songs with tight bass make this thing hit like a roundhouse kick from Chuck Norris

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Box detail: outer dimensions 25"long. 5" bottom/3" top. 14" high. 1/2 mdf with a brace inside. Don't think the magnet will clear inside with 3/4 so I played it safe. Subwoofer has to be offset as theres some metal in the seat that would interfere. Also mounted as low as possible so the magnet clears the back.
I hit my target volume with this box of .5cu ft. More space than the cubby under the seat.

Ordered some front pioneer component 6x9 + tweeters for install in the coming days.

Hope this helps anyone wanting a rear seat sub setup!

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[ZombieDropper]

Nice job but seems like a lot of work. Another option would have been the JL Audio Stealth Sub Box. Paired with a Kicker 400.1 it hits really hard. And you won't lose your jack storage.

 

[josh2201]

Well that's a great option, I couldn't justify spending 1600+tax cad
I spent 645 for sub and material. And a few hours of my time.
This sub also handles a fair bit more power than the jl tw1.

 

[Zach@Granger]

Tight fit! I think I got about as much bass as you can without modifying the interior or having a box sitting on your back seat.
Tight to the seat but the deep grille provides the space for the impressive excursion on this thing. After mounting the sub to the box, I was really skeptical about it fitting, but, it does with 0 playroom. Hertz mps250. Would recommend! Songs with tight bass make this thing hit like a roundhouse kick from Chuck Norris
Powered by fosgate prime r2-500x1

Box detail: outter dimensions 25"long. 5" bottom/3" top. 14" high. 1/2 mdf with a brace inside. Don't think the magnet will clear inside with 3/4 so I played it safe. Sub has to be offset as theres some metal in the seat that would interfere. Also mounted as low as possible so the magnet clears the back.
I hit my target volume with this box of .5cu ft. More space than the cubby under the seat.

Ordered some front pioneer component 6x9 + tweeters for install in the coming days.

Hope this helps anyone wanting a rear seat sub setup!

I bet you have great beats now! Very nice!

 

[bigb]

So for us folks with minimal audio knowledge where do you get the signal? Assuming at speaker level? Second, is there any control available when driving or is everything pre-set on the mono amp?

 

[SnyperX]

For my setup I have a AudioControl LC2i line converter that gets the signal to my Kicker HS10. I have the LC2i connected via a harness I bought from PlugandPlayKits.com. I have the NON-B&O stereo. Harness requires disassembly of the interior in order to get behind the 12" screen to install the harness. I didn't want to splice into the factory harness so it had to be done.

LC2i Harness for 2024+ Ford Ranger

 

[jrRaptor]

Nice! Been thinking of something like this. Box dims are greatly appreciated!

I hear the OEM jack is worthless for the Raptor anyways.

 

[ZombieDropper]

Sounds Good Stereo sells a pre-programmed Kicker Line Out Converter that is truly plug and play for the Ranger with a B&O system. It plugs right into the factory amp harness behind the seat. All the set up and programming is already done for you. No cutting of wires. It provides a flat bass signal for your mono amp. Otherwise your stuck with the Ford factory bass roll-off which will make your sub sound terrible. It's worth every penny.
https://soundsgoodstereo.com/produc...read-description-below?variant=43758553301204

 

[josh2201]

So for us folks with minimal audio knowledge where do you get the signal? Assuming at speaker level? Second, is there any control available when driving or is everything pre-set on the mono amp?

Located under front door sill, I tapped into rear speaker wire.
And my amp has a wired remote bass control, which I mounted up front so I can adjust bass on the fly.

 

[RCMUSTANG]

Sounds Good Stereo sells a pre-programmed Kicker Line Out Converter that is truly plug and play for the Ranger with a B&O system. It plugs right into the factory amp harness behind the seat. All the set up and programming is already done for you. No cutting of wires. It provides a flat bass signal for your mono amp. Otherwise your stuck with the Ford factory bass roll-off which will make your sub sound terrible. It's worth every penny.
https://soundsgoodstereo.com/produc...read-description-below?variant=43758553301204

You've posted that link before but everytime i click it you can't choose removing the bass roll off option.

 

[ZombieDropper]

It's hit and miss. It takes time for those guys to build the wire harness and program the LOC. I think they block out that option when they run out of stock.

 

[White willy]

For my setup I have a AudioControl LC2i line converter that gets the signal to my Kicker HS10. I have the LC2i connected via a harness I bought from PlugandPlayKits.com. I have the NON-B&O stereo. Harness requires disassembly of the interior in order to get behind the 12" screen to install the harness. I didn't want to splice into the factory harness so it had to be done.

LC2i Harness for 2024+ Ford Ranger

This is what’s keeping me from doing mine for now.How much actually has to torn apart?
I really wish there was a write up,or good video explaining it all.
Hats off,gotta be a nice improvement for sure!

 

[SnyperX]

This is what’s keeping me from doing mine for now.How much actually has to torn apart?
I really wish there was a write up,or good video explaining it all.
Hats off,gotta be a nice improvement for sure!

I used this video. Its for an Australia Ranger, but still provided good info. A LOT has to come out unfortunately I was adding sound deadener as well so it all worked out.

 

[josh2201]

This is what’s keeping me from doing mine for now.How much actually has to torn apart?
I really wish there was a write up,or good video explaining it all.
Hats off,gotta be a nice improvement for sure!

This isnt all necessary. I tapped into door speaker and thats it. No loc. No unnecessary interior tear down. My results are good. No bass roll off. My bass goes up with the headunit volume all the way up til my ears say thats enough. Usually around 20. And to set gain. Youre hitting a desired voltage on the amp output with the
At 75% volume on headunit. So ya, your amp will put out the power you want thru the range.

 

[White willy]

This isnt all necessary. I tapped into door speaker and thats it. No loc. No unnecessary interior tear down. My results are good. No bass roll off. My bass goes up with the headunit volume all the way up til my ears say thats enough. Usually around 20. And to set gain. Youre hitting a desired voltage on the amp output with the
At 75% volume on headunit. So ya, your amp will put out the power you want thru the range.

Which wires and where did you tap for that?
Inquiring minds would love to know.

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