Installing bed side steps on Ranger XL / XLT - DIY instructions

[camocustom]

are they a 14mm head? thats what mine were

No, 10mm head. but i also didn't get them from ford

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[Bluestra1n]

are they a 14mm head? thats what mine were

 

[superj]

i don't think the 10mm ones are the ones. do they thread into the holes when you lay behind teh back wheels and look up? maybe there are different head sizes and hte threads are the same?

i feel like m6 is the very small ones that fit in the bed area to hold the nets in place though

 

[camocustom]

Thank you! Now I need to get the right ones.

 

[Bill Hippel]

If you dont have the steps behind the rear wheels and you happen to come across a good deal getting them, they are very easy to install so dont pass up in them. They are a nice addition to the looks of the truck and the accessability of the bed. They are worth purchasing.

It takes about an hour per side to take the original smooth sided back panels off and you wont break any of those white clips. Not that you have to save the clips because the new parts should have them.

I did the driver side 3 (three!!!!) times because i was excited to put them on and forgot to put bolts back in place and found them after completly done with that side and still only took 4.5 hours and thats taking pics for this post, also.

Before you start tearing up your truck, as noted in other posts about installing these, you will be short 2 bolts per side. They are the bolts in this picture, or the same size as your step board mounting bolts. I dont know the size but i pulled out a bolt from under the back and dug around and turned out, i had the same bolts in the garage from another build.

These two darker bolts are 14mm head (i think). Pull one out and check your stash or go buy some before you start.

Start by taking off your mud flaps. Pop the center tab out with a small screwdriver and the body will pull out easily.

If you cant get the center to pull out, you can stick a needle nose plier in the back to apply pressure and the center will come out.

These white clips are the ones that seem to give people trouble. What i found is you can squeeze them with your finger tips while pushing the part you are removing and they will pop out unbroken

These are the white clips actually under the truck.

These are the white clips no longer under the truck. See how they have those legs that stick out? When pushed through the body, they stick out and act like an anchor. you can squeeze the legs back in and push the clip back through the hole and then you are free.

You also need your 10mm socket and a ratchet to get out three bolts. One is threaded straight up at the bottom of the fender liner behind the wheel.

The other two are back towards the bumper and accessed from behind and outside from the edge of the spare tire. Near where the bumper bolts thread in. There is a harness plug right beneath one of the bolt heads that is kind of in the way so just unplug it for now and it will be easier to get the socket and turn the ratchet fully. Hopefully yours come out easily and dont tear because then you have to hold the clip with a plier and turn bolt out afterwards.

So now the white clips are undone and three 10mm bolts are unscrewed and you are looking like this (with the panel popped out but unable to actually pull it off).

Take this star screw out of the fender liner because you will have to pull the liner out to put the step in.

There a secret screw you need to take off that is hiding under the edge of the rear wheel well plastic surround trim. This is what it screws into, visible from the back. Don't try to pull the white thick block out, it is just for the hidden screw to thread onto but i want you guys to note where it is so you know where the screw head is on the other side. Its another star screw, surprise!!

This is where the above mentioned sta screw goes through the panel and into that white block. Since i am not using those panels again, i just tear that tab off the panel so i have easy access to that hidden star screw that is under the trim piece.

Here is where that hidden screw sits. You need to go back under the truck and sqeeze two more white clips so you can pull this trim up and get that star screw

Take out the rear most two of the three bumper bolts on the opposite side of the truck you are working on. Loosen the foreward most bumper bolt on that opppsite side and unthread it about half an inch. Put a jack under the hitch with a 4x4 on it to hold the bumper up because on the side you are working, you will take out all three bumper mount bolts that go upward into the frame. You can now swing the bumper out a little bit and have room to remove the panel.

After you get that star screw out, the panel pops off the reveal this.

I hope you took this push screw out of the fender liner. If not, do it now.

Now those bolts you bought and the two you unscrew will be used to hold your step up. I failed to take a picture but there is a tab on the step at the rear mount that slides into a slot on the truck. You can see the slot in the pic where the two empty bolt holes are. There is a locating pin that sticks off the forward mount that needs to be slid between the fender liner and the will hold the step up while you tighten the bolts. That is why you took the last push clip out of the fender liner in that pic above.

With the bolts tightened, you will be here now. See how the fender liner is still sticking out from when you popped it forward a little to put the step alignment pin in? Well, put that back in properly before you put the new plastic panel on or you are going to get more practice undoing those damn white clips from earlier. That will add some time.

And also don't forget to put the silver star head screw in the when you reseat the fender liner because if you fail to notice it until you are getting ready to do the other side of the truck, you will get super pissed off because you will have to start at step one and redo everything to put that damn screw in since it goes under the plastic panel, under the wheel well trim. You will probably want to throw some stuff and just trade the freaking truck in for a truck with the steps on it already. I know, thats what i did and how i felt.

*****So make sure to put the silver screw in***

Now you can align the new panel clips into the holes in the bed's sheet metal from the previous pic with no panel attached

Do the other side in about 45 minutes now that you know what to do.

Take these pieces off the old panels so you can put them in your spare parts bin. You will actually have double the amount when done with both. And i broke one clip when i got mad the second time i forgot to put a bolt in so one white.clip is missing.

I also forgot installed full truck pics so tomorrow i will get a pic of the truck with the steps on it.

Thanks for info and pics, you got me thinking.

 

[josephp732]

I received the steps today, now I have to figure out the right bolt size. The one's I ordered from Bolts and Nuts are way to small.

 

[superj]

Take one out of the steps and go to the local hardware store.

My truck didnt have steps when bought it but it still had one bolt on each side where the steps mounted

 

[josephp732]

These 100% work: M10 x 25mm Flanged Hex Head Bolts

 

[josephp732]

First off, a huge thank you to Jason for figuring out how to install these without any instructions and taking the time to document the process. That was incredibly helpful.

A few general observations before getting into details:

• Eat your Wheaties before starting — the bumper/trailer hitch M16 factory frame bolts require some real muscle to break loose and tighten. Torque: 146 lb-ft (195 N·m).
• Expect the install to take longer than you think.
• The driver’s side is noticeably easier to install than the passenger side.
• Don’t try to skip any steps in the process — it’ll only make things harder later.

My impressions after installing them:

• Appearance: They look good and are very close to factory in terms of styling. The new trim piece integrates nicely.
• Sturdiness: They’re not as solid as the factory steps. If you step on a corner you can feel some flex. A friend of mine has a Ranger with the factory steps and those are completely rock solid.
• Build quality: Just average in my opinion. Mine arrived with missing paint along some edges, and the coating overall seems pretty thin.
• Construction: I took one apart out of curiosity — the step itself is 100% plastic, with the bottom section screwed into the top.
• Hardware: The bolts that attach the step to the bracket are pretty cheap. I replaced mine with stainless steel M6x15 bolts.

One thing to watch during installation

Be careful of a small black-wrapped wire on the driver’s side. Once the bracket is installed, it sits close enough that the wire can rub against the step bracket. To prevent chafing, I simply zip-tied it to the larger wiring harness nearby to keep it safely out of the way.

Rust concerns

If you live in the rust belt, I’d be a bit concerned about long-term durability. The paint coverage is somewhat sloppy and the supplied hardware isn’t great.

To help with that, I coated the brackets heavily with BOESHIELD T-9 Rust & Corrosion Protection/Inhibitor. I’m sure Fluid Film would work just as well.

One frustrating issue

I ran into a pretty ridiculous problem during the install. One of the two factory-installed bolts (the ones Jason shows in his photo) on the driver’s side was cross-threaded from the factory.

Let’s just say my wife probably wondered who I was yelling at in the garage while working alone.

Because of things like that—and the questionable paint—I’m keeping the factory trim pieces. If these ever rust out or need to come off, I’ll want the option of putting everything back to stock.

 

[KStiff]

First off, a huge thank you to Jason for figuring out how to install these without any instructions and taking the time to document the process. That was incredibly helpful.

A few general observations before getting into details:

• Eat your Wheaties before starting — the bumper/trailer hitch bolts require some real muscle to break loose and tighten.
• Expect the install to take longer than you think.
• The driver’s side is noticeably easier to install than the passenger side.
• Don’t try to skip any steps in the process — it’ll only make things harder later.

My impressions after installing them:

• Appearance: They look good and are very close to factory in terms of styling. The new trim piece integrates nicely.
• Sturdiness: They’re not as solid as the factory steps. If you step on a corner you can feel some flex. A friend of mine has a Ranger with the factory steps and those are completely rock solid.
• Build quality: Just average in my opinion. Mine arrived with missing paint along some edges, and the coating overall seems pretty thin.
• Construction: I took one apart out of curiosity — the step itself is 100% plastic, with the bottom section screwed into the top.
• Hardware: The bolts that attach the step to the bracket are pretty cheap. I replaced mine with stainless steel M6x15 bolts.

One thing to watch during installation

Be careful of a small black-wrapped wire on the driver’s side. Once the bracket is installed, it sits close enough that the wire can rub against the step bracket. To prevent chafing, I simply zip-tied it to the larger wiring harness nearby to keep it safely out of the way.

Rust concerns

If you live in the rust belt, I’d be a bit concerned about long-term durability. The paint coverage is somewhat sloppy and the supplied hardware isn’t great.

To help with that, I coated the brackets heavily with BOESHIELD T-9 Rust & Corrosion Protection/Inhibitor. I’m sure Fluid Film would work just as well.

One frustrating issue

I ran into a pretty ridiculous problem during the install. One of the two factory-installed bolts (the ones Jason shows in his photo) on the driver’s side was cross-threaded from the factory.

Let’s just say my wife probably wondered who I was yelling at in the garage while working alone.

Because of things like that—and the questionable paint—I’m keeping the factory trim pieces. If these ever rust out or need to come off, I’ll want the option of putting everything back to stock.

Glad you got them on!

 

[josephp732]

Note on the rear bumper/hitch bolts, Ford uses large M16 fasteners because the hitch is part of the frames load path - effectively part of the truck’s rear structure. When towing, loads from the receiver transfer through the hitch crossmember into the frame rails via those six bolts.

At the factory torque of 146 lb-ft (195 N·m), each bolt generates very high clamp load. Across all six bolts, that adds up to well over 100,000 lbs of total clamp force holding the hitch structure tight to the frame. That clamping force creates friction between the hitch bracket and frame, which is what actually carries most of the towing load rather than the bolts taking the load in shear.

The bolts don’t carry the towing load directly. Instead:

• The clamping force squeezes the hitch bracket to the frame
• Friction between the steel surfaces carries the load
• That’s why proper torque is so important.

When you remove them for steps or hitch work:

• Breakaway torque feels like 200+ lb-ft
• Clean the threads
• Start bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading
• Snug them first, then torque in stages.
• Alternate left/right sides so the bumper reinforcement seats evenly.
• Torque back to 146 lb-ft
• Recheck torque after a short drive
  
  
  

 

[cc1999]

First off, a huge thank you to Jason for figuring out how to install these without any instructions and taking the time to document the process. That was incredibly helpful.

A few general observations before getting into details:

• Eat your Wheaties before starting — the bumper/trailer hitch M16 factory frame bolts require some real muscle to break loose and tighten. Torque: 146 lb-ft (195 N·m).
• Expect the install to take longer than you think.
• The driver’s side is noticeably easier to install than the passenger side.
• Don’t try to skip any steps in the process — it’ll only make things harder later.

My impressions after installing them:

• Appearance: They look good and are very close to factory in terms of styling. The new trim piece integrates nicely.
• Sturdiness: They’re not as solid as the factory steps. If you step on a corner you can feel some flex. A friend of mine has a Ranger with the factory steps and those are completely rock solid.
• Build quality: Just average in my opinion. Mine arrived with missing paint along some edges, and the coating overall seems pretty thin.
• Construction: I took one apart out of curiosity — the step itself is 100% plastic, with the bottom section screwed into the top.
• Hardware: The bolts that attach the step to the bracket are pretty cheap. I replaced mine with stainless steel M6x15 bolts.

One thing to watch during installation

Be careful of a small black-wrapped wire on the driver’s side. Once the bracket is installed, it sits close enough that the wire can rub against the step bracket. To prevent chafing, I simply zip-tied it to the larger wiring harness nearby to keep it safely out of the way.

Rust concerns

If you live in the rust belt, I’d be a bit concerned about long-term durability. The paint coverage is somewhat sloppy and the supplied hardware isn’t great.

To help with that, I coated the brackets heavily with BOESHIELD T-9 Rust & Corrosion Protection/Inhibitor. I’m sure Fluid Film would work just as well.

One frustrating issue

I ran into a pretty ridiculous problem during the install. One of the two factory-installed bolts (the ones Jason shows in his photo) on the driver’s side was cross-threaded from the factory.

Let’s just say my wife probably wondered who I was yelling at in the garage while working alone.

Because of things like that—and the questionable paint—I’m keeping the factory trim pieces. If these ever rust out or need to come off, I’ll want the option of putting everything back to stock.

Nice work !

 

[camocustom]

I received the steps today, now I have to figure out the right bolt size. The one's I ordered from Bolts and Nuts are way to small.

That is totally my bad. I went off another post that had multiple ford part #s listed and they described those as being the ones for the steps. I knew when I got them they were too small.

These 100% work: M10 x 25mm Flanged Hex Head Bolts

I was able to order these directly from ford and these are the right ones

I have not had a chance to install mine yet. My truck is in service for the air bag shield recall and the low-speed chirping. They MANGLED my interior trim so its waiting for new pieces after I chewed service a new a-hole. I hate service dept, dealerships, if it wasn't for Manufacturer warranty, I wouldn't even bother going back to a dealer.

 

[superj]

ddue, that sucks.

thats also why my truck still hasn't had the airbag recall done. i am afraid of that happening

 

[camocustom]

ddue, that sucks.

thats also why my truck still hasn't had the airbag recall done. i am afraid of that happening

Yea I was as well, got tired of the mail and notifications and emails..... I asked them nicely to take care of my truck, its literally brand new still. 6000 miles, got it very end of August 25.

I go to recreate the chirping sound and while I was waiting for the Shop Foreman, I checked the interior, passenger side had pry marks and stress bends along with a plier or clamp mark STAMPED into the trim, the driver pillar trim had discoloring on the stress bends from prying it down, headliner was disgusting. It all happened so fast, I was really concerned with the noise, but showed the shop foreman immediately. I didnt get to get any pictures and I hate myself for it, but they are fixing or have already fixed it. (Its been in their hands since Wednesday 3/18)

I am hopefully hearing today about the chirping. Its the same issue Bronco's were having, appears that that the CV boot on the transfer case side of the front shaft sits VERY close to the exhaust. Its heating the grease and liquifying it and it then settles in the pleating of the boot, causing the joint to not be greased properly and a low speed (under 30mph) chirp under load.

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