Hub-centric wheels required? There are no rings available!

[Rw6735]

Gents,

I intend to pull the trigger on Motegi MR150 Trailite wheels (17” +18 offset) that are flow-formed aluminum and really, really light. The load rating looks appropriate for a daily-driven, weekend track warrior truck. For now, stock BFG’s remain in place.

While researching, Google Gemini tells me I need hub-centric wheels but the Motegis have a larger bore, necessitating inclusion of a hub-centric ring to bridge the gap between my truck’s 93.1mm hub and the 106.1mm bore of the wheels. There don’t seem to be any of these on the market, causing these wheels to effectively become lug-centric (not what the Raptor is designed for).

Are any of you men concerning yourself with this or are you choosing to bolt up whatever looks right?

Thanks in advance!

Sponsored

 

[Lion77]

Hub Centering Rings for 106.1mm Wheels (4pcs) – Rocktrix Offroad

I have Method 705's that have a "universal fit" 106 hub bore, which is common among aftermarket wheels (you can always use rings to make them hub-centric, but you can't fit a small bore over a larger hub without machining the wheel).

I never bought hub rings as the dealer installed my 705's WITHOUT rings, just as Method says and I have ZERO issues with vibration. In fact these are smoother than the OEM Beadlocks that had massive weights to get balanced. The Methods are lighter (25.2lbs per wheel vs. 36~37 lbs OE), they appear to be more precision formed / machined, so they needed very little weight to balance out compared to the OE wheels.

You might want to give them a try without rings first, then if you have vibration issues, buy some hub rings. There are shops that will machine custom sizes too if you look around (google search) if you can't find a common reduction ratio.

 

[Rw6735]

Hub Centering Rings for 106.1mm Wheels (4pcs) – Rocktrix Offroad

I have Method 705's that have a "universal fit" 106 hub bore, which is common among aftermarket wheels (you can always use rings to make them hub-centric, but you can't fit a small bore over a larger hub without machining the wheel).

I never bought hub rings as the dealer installed my 705's WITHOUT rings, just as Method says and I have ZERO issues with vibration. In fact these are smoother than the OEM Beadlocks that had massive weights to get balanced. The Methods are lighter (25.2lbs per wheel vs. 36~37 lbs OE), they appear to be more precision formed / machined, so they needed very little weight to balance out compared to the OE wheels.

You might want to give them a try without rings first, then if you have vibration issues, buy some hub rings. There are shops that will machine custom sizes too if you look around (google search) if you can't find a common reduction ratio.

Perfect; thank you!

 

[bigb]

I've always been a hub centric guy. Even if you don't have balance/vibration issues what about the weight and constant hammering abuse that will be put on the studs now, instead of on the axle end? Maybe I'm over cautious having only owned heavy duty trucks that were for working and hauling heavy loads, but if the factory always goes hub centric there must be a reason.

 

[gopher18]

I went with these on my wheels without issue:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08CXRYRQP/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AAG65ENO0MMNU&psc=1

 

[mAtTyG04]

I just installed new wheels with amazon rings on the weekend. Worked fine.

Black Rhino Shogun:

17X8.5

6X139.7

5.54

20mm

106.10

 

[TGlock90]

https://www.uswheeladapters.com/hub...8Qfh0uidEB-j_HbOpEf8ZeTs_oept4L6HGjIDndiEptD-

I used these guys for a custom set of rings. 95.1mm to 93.1mm I know they are tiny but I liked the piece of mind. They were machined and to my door in 4 days.

 

[Kenbike]

I would never run any wheels but hubcentric that are machined for your size hub.
Plastic spacers do not work effectively.
Had a set of wheels on a 2015 Mustang GT and at 85 mph the 3 wheel studs snapped off on the left rear. I coasted to a stop thinking I had a flat and found only 2 lug nuts left.
They rest of the wheel studs were close to breaking. Just putting a lug wrench on and some pressure they snapped off.
After my research and discussions by my egg head son who is a mechanical engineer we determined running the non-hubcentric on the car even with the correct 150ftlbs of torque on the lug nuts with a calibrated wrench the wheel stud metal failed do to excessive force created with out the correct size hub. In the end the wheel manufacture paid all of the cost and damages created from the failure.

 

[BeachRaptor]

I would never run any wheels but hubcentric that are machined for your size hub.
Plastic spacers do not work effectively.
Had a set of wheels on a 2015 Mustang GT and at 85 mph the 3 wheel studs snapped off on the left rear. I coasted to a stop thinking I had a flat and found only 2 lug nuts left.
They rest of the wheel studs were close to breaking. Just putting a lug wrench on and some pressure they snapped off.
After my research and discussions by my egg head son who is a mechanical engineer we determined running the non-hubcentric on the car even with the correct 150ftlbs of torque on the lug nuts with a calibrated wrench the wheel stud metal failed do to excessive force created with out the correct size hub. In the end the wheel manufacture paid all of the cost and damages created from the failure.

I’m curious about that torque spec. Was that for the Mustang? I believe the Ranger manual calls for 100 ft-lbs. 150 seems like a lot for a wheel lug. Just curious.

 

[Lion77]

Hub centric wheels only help with wheel to lug alignment. You would need a 20-ton hydraulic press to put them on in such a way that they actually hold the wheel onto the hub.

Hub Centering Rings for 106.1mm Wheels (4pcs) – Rocktrix Offroad

Those are aluminum centering rings. They have the same bore size as hub centric wheels, but your wheel won't even stay on the hub without lugs just sitting there in the garage.

The failure with your mustang was either due to over torquing (was your wrench within its cal. period?) or a metallurgical defect in the lugs (only need 1 to fail, then the others can fail after).

I've had grade 8 bolts that weren't corroded at all snap at their rated torque spec. Only one or two occasions in my lifetime, but defects do happen.

There's no difference between hub rings and hub centric wheels other than the rings are there to help with proper stud alignment while torqing.

 

[Lion77]

What Is The Proper Method to Torque Wheel Lug Nuts Or Bolts? | Tire Rack

What is the purpose of centering rings? Are they required?

"Some wheels are designed to fit multiple vehicle models and will use a centering ring system to reduce the bore size to match the hubs of different vehicles. These rings help to keep the wheel precisely centered on the vehicle hub as the lug hardware is torqued down. The clamping force of the lug hardware in the lug seats is what mechanically centers and secures the wheel in place on the hub."

What Are Hub Centric Rings | Discount Tire

 

[Kenbike]

My failure was on a 2015 Mustang GT and they rating on the lug nuts are 150lbs.
I do own a quality torque wrench and it was not used. A local shop just installed the wheels after doing suspension work and they only use calibrated wrench's.

Wheel companies who make spacers and non hub centric wheels claim they are ok, after my research to discover why my wheel studs failed we could only point that could be identified was the wheel not being hub centric.

I would not use them again on my vehicles but to each their own.

 

[Lion77]

Thats fine, but hub centric would not have prevented that failure. It does nothing for bearing the load. The lugs and taper on the nut / wheel is what centers and holds the wheel in place.

Hub centric is OEM standard because it makes centering the wheel less human error prone during the torqing process. Your average mechanic can hastily do tire rotations and theres less human error that results in vibration that irritates the owner of the car and causes more service visits and perception of poor quality.

Its just an engineering control maintenance errors.

 

[25Dsand]

Ive had rings on my last car went with plastic as I was told metal will get stuck to the wheel no experience though with that. If you go plastic get an extra set as one of mine cracked after the third season swap I ran 'em wheels with winter tires and a set of advance in summer with rings.

 

[BeachRaptor]

Ive had rings on my last car went with plastic as I was told metal will get stuck to the wheel no experience though with that. If you go plastic get an extra set as one of mine cracked after the third season swap I ran 'em wheels with winter tires and a set of advance in summer with rings.

They can get stuck for the same reason metal valve stem covers can get stuck…. dissimilar metals and corrosion over time.

Sponsored