SIGNATURE LUX Lava" Amber DRL Conversion Headlights🇺🇸

[Garaged]

Gents
Just received seemingly SL 'v2' of DRL conversion kit; coupla observations:

1. Boards now include three (3) pre-drilled, alignment holes to match heatsink base
2. No thermal paste included...?

Before embarking on install...is thermal paste recommended or required?

> If so, can someone please provide a spec for purchase [since not an electrical/electronic guy ]​

​

I think you should reach out and get them to send you thermal paste. I just got my v2 package a couple days ago with the extra holes and it does have a tiny tube of thermal paste in it.

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[smokinjoe64]

I think you should reach out and get them to send you thermal paste. I just got my v2 package a couple days ago with the extra holes and it does have a tiny tube of thermal paste in it.

Appreciate your comment...just discovered the syringe filled with paste at bottom of pkg envelope.
I was expecting a tube similar to previous posted pics.
Corrected my original post.

 

[lifeline]

Just did my install. It was a pain in the ass but would be nearly impossible without the flexible driver. I used a jack to raise each side so I could get my head in the fender well area and removed the fender bolts to pry the fender back while my helper started the top two T15 screws on each sides. Make sure you take a look at the connecter and how it attaches before you try releasing it, it comes apart very easily if you depress the tab with your finger nail, it needs very little force. The kit I received was revised so nothing had to be cut off. I'm impressed with the kit, the look is very OEM and how it should have come from the factory.

 

[iBrad81]

Still waiting patiently on mine, its made about 15 or more stops

 

[Icemilkteaa]

I just did the install, and want to add some thoughts and tricks I discovered.

I decided that I would pull the wheel, and the entire fender liner. This would give me a straight shot in.

I also found that removing the horn helps a ton. The bracket nut didn’t want to come off. But the horn itself has a nut behind it.

edit: I pulled fender bolts on drivers side, but found that it made no difference in the way I tackled the install, so I did not bother removing on passenger side and it was a breeze after above steps were taken

 

[smokinjoe64]

@Icemilkteaa appreciate these tips/approach.
Just received my kit this week.

Did jus a prelim only look & feel... there's no way my hand will fit tight space to maneuver top-side, even with flex-extension and fender loosing.

> My concern, not just getting screws out, but confidently able to access/reinstall without losing screws and bits in engine bay 'black hole'.​

A few questions:

• Clarify - Assumes suggesting both sides wheel removal for install?
• Access Related - Remove both side screws and reinstall from only 'bottom up access' or combo top/bottom?
• Any 'different' tools used/suggested beyond those previously noted by others?
• Clarify - Why horn/assy removal?

Welcome comments/suggestions from All...

 

[0ak9]

@Icemilkteaa appreciate these tips/approach.
Just received my kit this week.

Did jus a prelim only look & feel... there's no way my hand will fit tight space to maneuver top-side, even with flex-extension and fender loosing.

> My concern, not just getting screws out, but confidently able to access/reinstall without losing screws and bits in engine bay 'black hole'.​

A few questions:

• Clarify - Assumes suggesting both sides wheel removal for install?
• Access Related - Remove both side screws and reinstall from only 'bottom up access' or combo top/bottom?
• Any 'different' tools used/suggested beyond those previously noted by others?
• Clarify - Why horn/assy removal?

Welcome comments/suggestions from All...

all these tips are great, but I think my biggest help was having an extra hand - especially one whose hands are smaller than yours

with two people, I was able to get the entire process completed under two hours. both of our hands were scratched to hell upon completion, but honestly it took a lot of angling with the flexible tool and a whole lot of “hold your finger here” to keep the screws from falling and getting in the right hole.

I wish there were more tips, but it just takes severe patience and a lot of cursing. +3 for beer

one more thing: the white clip that comes off the led chip has two small grooves on them that require you to depress in order to get them out easily. If you go brute force option, you will likely pull the each individual female connector running into the headlight out without the clip… highly do not recommend, because it becomes a guessing game on which wire goes where. **if you go a few pages back, one of our members posted the correct wiring sequence for reference**

 

[Icemilkteaa]

@Icemilkteaa appreciate these tips/approach.
Just received my kit this week.

Did jus a prelim only look & feel... there's no way my hand will fit tight space to maneuver top-side, even with flex-extension and fender loosing.

> My concern, not just getting screws out, but confidently able to access/reinstall without losing screws and bits in engine bay 'black hole'.​

A few questions:

• Clarify - Assumes suggesting both sides wheel removal for install?
• Access Related - Remove both side screws and reinstall from only 'bottom up access' or combo top/bottom?
• Any 'different' tools used/suggested beyond those previously noted by others?
• Clarify - Why horn/assy removal?

Welcome comments/suggestions from All...

I have normal sized hands and did it solo, but I probably have a higher than normal pain tolerance for annoying things.

Both wheels removed yes. This allowed me to sit inside the wheel well, so that I could see all three screws from the bottom. Each wheel well has two liners, and I removed both. By the time the big one is out, the small one is 2 t15 and maybe 4 push clips from coming out so you may as well pull it.

The screw that you can see from the top, I did use the flexible ratcheting screwdriver to access from the top. With the wheel liners removed, I was able to have one hand underneath the guide the tip (that’s what she said)

The other two screws were both accessed from the bottom. I have a really nice small Hazet driver set that was great for reaching these. I would recommend for most people to have some quarter inch drive t15 and a few extensions. I think with the horns removed, these wouldn’t even be an issue.

horn removal was so that you can use normal sized tools to reach the two screws accessed from the bottom. You’ll find your wrench hitting the horn, and that you’re essentially bending around. You could probably make do with the bendy screwdriver, but why not undo 1 single 10mm nut

My concern also was not being able to get the screw back in… this turned out to be pretty easy once you figure out removal.

 

[JrHDRanger]

Mine is arriving today and I have a week off work that just happens to coincide. I’ll definitely be rereading all these posts beforehand. Thanks for paving the way guys.

 

[lifeline]

I was considering removing the horn as well but made it work by just unplugging the horn connecter. Removing the horn would have made it easier.

 

[NASSTY]

I thought about removing the horn as well. But with the felxible tool it wasn't too hard to just work around it.

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