JWeigel
Active Member
- Joined
- Oct 30, 2023
- Threads
- 15
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- 43
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- Location
- North Dakota
- Vehicle(s)
- 2024 Ranger Raptor
- Thread starter
- #16
Just wanted to follow up. I did the transmission service today. Did a short drive to get o the hoist so things would not be so hot. You have good access to all but a couple pan bolts. With a 19mm box wrench you can easily reach over the exhaust and drive shaft with room to move the fill plug (dip stick). When things are really hot, a spinner wrench would be better to get most of the way off, but when cold you should be able to just use your fingers to remove it. You are only working around the driveshaft when reaching up so not as bad as the F150 looks.
Here are some pictures of the pan. Front looking back
Drivers side looking towards passenger. Note that blue mark on the fluid cooler line. That is the outgoing (Hot) line and a great place to get an accurate trans temp. When up to operating temp, it will read 10 to 15 above what you see on the dash gauge, so the trans is running at 205 when it shows 190 on the dash gauge. Also, the driver’s front corner bolt was the only one I could not get a socket on. I had to use a wrench. When it is free, it will not fall out without moving the trans line a bit. I did remove the trans cooler hanger bracket bolt (10mm). With a small screwdriver you can wedge the lines across the front enough forward to get a socket on them. I used 1/4 drive to have the smallest sockets. Small bolts (most) are 8mm, the larger are 13mm. There are 6 of these larger but they are the same dia stud as the smaller 8mm.
This is the drivers side looking back. There is enough room to get a socket straight up to the back 2 center boilts (big ones) but the outside corners require a offset joint
Here is the passenger side. Wide open on this side. Unlike the F150 which as heat shield on the pan bolts, there is none on this trans. You do have 2 push pins holding the upper heat shield on the passenger side and 2 on the driver’s side.
Here is that hanger bracket (10mm) that I took the bolt out to let the lines move a little more. I think it helps.
Here is a close up of the dipstick (its under the fillplug). For ouf trans, we want the fluid when at operating temp (205 degrees) to be between 4 and 3. The cooler the fuild the closer to 4. The numbers are on the circles.
I had a hoist and still made a mess but mostly self-caused. If you want to spill the least when trying to get the pan off....and it will NOT just slide out easily.....use your fill hose pump/hose. I had the pump below but needed some smaller diam hose that would just go inside the red hose to be small enough diam to work done past the fill plug threads and down to the pan bottom. Once you get the fluid going, it will siphon until it is mostly all out. I got right at 5 quarts out this way. Again ....if you can drain when the trans is warm to cool, all these steps are much easier not dealing with 200 degree fluid.
Once you have around 5 quarts out you will be able to remove all the pan bolts and start to find a way to move it out. There is no room to move back and just a little room to move forward (with those coolant lines). I found trying to drop the front past the coolant lines works with just a little ever pressure to get the driver’s side corner done past the coolant line. There will still be half a quart of so of fluid left. Once off, the filter has another half a quart of fluid that will leak/spill when you remove the two bolts too slide it out.
The gasket is definitely reusable once cleaned up. I installed a new one but did clean up the factory for a spare. I also replaced the factory rubber seal that is on the front of the trans filter. Very little, but some metallic sludge on the magnet that is on the bottom of the pan. Clean up pan, install new filter with gasket. Long filter bolt goes on passenger and short on driver. Both are 10mm.
There are two green push buttons on the top side of the pan gasket that will hold the gasket to the trans. To get the cleaned up pan back on, I had to work to get the front driver corner but the coolant line. A screwdriver helps and that it is plastic and has some flex. Once it pops past the coolant line, it cannot fall off, very easy to get the 6 larger bolts started. Then all the smaller bolts...all just finger tight. The torque spec is 80-inch pounds (....not foot pounds) for all bolts. This is fairly tight with a small 1/4" drive socket wrench or short 8mm combo wrench of very little with a larger 3/8 drive wrench. If you have a torque wrench, you can get to all but 4 bolts or so. Use your hand tools on ones you set with the torque wrench to get a feel for how tight to get those you cannot get the torque wrench on.
Tighten in a crossing pattern going front middle driver side to middle passenger then middle rear and middle front and so on. I think the pan gasket, given how little torque these small bolts require, is very forgiving.
Use your pump and pump 6 quarts in. If you check and it seems way over full....leave it. Don’t put away the setup you had to add fluid. You might need to either remove a bit or add a bit when hot. Tighten the fill plug hand tight. Start the truck, shift though the gears and let it idle a bit. The if on a hoist, raise up again while the truck is running. Check the fluid level before it gets really hot to ensure you are above 4 and less than 3. Go for a drive to get to trans temp to 180 degrees the gauge. Back on the hoist while still running and very heat soaked now, you can shoot the temp with a temp gun on the blue mark (see above) on the coolant line on front driver’s corner. You should be at 200 degrees or a little more. Have at least some rubber gloves. Might need 19mm wrench or just the rubber gloves to spin off the fill pug. Everything is hot now, but you are not up against the exhaust. Verify fluid is between 4 and 3 (see above). Good to go!
Hope that helps.
Here are some pictures of the pan. Front looking back
Drivers side looking towards passenger. Note that blue mark on the fluid cooler line. That is the outgoing (Hot) line and a great place to get an accurate trans temp. When up to operating temp, it will read 10 to 15 above what you see on the dash gauge, so the trans is running at 205 when it shows 190 on the dash gauge. Also, the driver’s front corner bolt was the only one I could not get a socket on. I had to use a wrench. When it is free, it will not fall out without moving the trans line a bit. I did remove the trans cooler hanger bracket bolt (10mm). With a small screwdriver you can wedge the lines across the front enough forward to get a socket on them. I used 1/4 drive to have the smallest sockets. Small bolts (most) are 8mm, the larger are 13mm. There are 6 of these larger but they are the same dia stud as the smaller 8mm.
This is the drivers side looking back. There is enough room to get a socket straight up to the back 2 center boilts (big ones) but the outside corners require a offset joint
Here is the passenger side. Wide open on this side. Unlike the F150 which as heat shield on the pan bolts, there is none on this trans. You do have 2 push pins holding the upper heat shield on the passenger side and 2 on the driver’s side.
Here is that hanger bracket (10mm) that I took the bolt out to let the lines move a little more. I think it helps.
Here is a close up of the dipstick (its under the fillplug). For ouf trans, we want the fluid when at operating temp (205 degrees) to be between 4 and 3. The cooler the fuild the closer to 4. The numbers are on the circles.
I had a hoist and still made a mess but mostly self-caused. If you want to spill the least when trying to get the pan off....and it will NOT just slide out easily.....use your fill hose pump/hose. I had the pump below but needed some smaller diam hose that would just go inside the red hose to be small enough diam to work done past the fill plug threads and down to the pan bottom. Once you get the fluid going, it will siphon until it is mostly all out. I got right at 5 quarts out this way. Again ....if you can drain when the trans is warm to cool, all these steps are much easier not dealing with 200 degree fluid.
Once you have around 5 quarts out you will be able to remove all the pan bolts and start to find a way to move it out. There is no room to move back and just a little room to move forward (with those coolant lines). I found trying to drop the front past the coolant lines works with just a little ever pressure to get the driver’s side corner done past the coolant line. There will still be half a quart of so of fluid left. Once off, the filter has another half a quart of fluid that will leak/spill when you remove the two bolts too slide it out.
The gasket is definitely reusable once cleaned up. I installed a new one but did clean up the factory for a spare. I also replaced the factory rubber seal that is on the front of the trans filter. Very little, but some metallic sludge on the magnet that is on the bottom of the pan. Clean up pan, install new filter with gasket. Long filter bolt goes on passenger and short on driver. Both are 10mm.
There are two green push buttons on the top side of the pan gasket that will hold the gasket to the trans. To get the cleaned up pan back on, I had to work to get the front driver corner but the coolant line. A screwdriver helps and that it is plastic and has some flex. Once it pops past the coolant line, it cannot fall off, very easy to get the 6 larger bolts started. Then all the smaller bolts...all just finger tight. The torque spec is 80-inch pounds (....not foot pounds) for all bolts. This is fairly tight with a small 1/4" drive socket wrench or short 8mm combo wrench of very little with a larger 3/8 drive wrench. If you have a torque wrench, you can get to all but 4 bolts or so. Use your hand tools on ones you set with the torque wrench to get a feel for how tight to get those you cannot get the torque wrench on.
Tighten in a crossing pattern going front middle driver side to middle passenger then middle rear and middle front and so on. I think the pan gasket, given how little torque these small bolts require, is very forgiving.
Use your pump and pump 6 quarts in. If you check and it seems way over full....leave it. Don’t put away the setup you had to add fluid. You might need to either remove a bit or add a bit when hot. Tighten the fill plug hand tight. Start the truck, shift though the gears and let it idle a bit. The if on a hoist, raise up again while the truck is running. Check the fluid level before it gets really hot to ensure you are above 4 and less than 3. Go for a drive to get to trans temp to 180 degrees the gauge. Back on the hoist while still running and very heat soaked now, you can shoot the temp with a temp gun on the blue mark (see above) on the coolant line on front driver’s corner. You should be at 200 degrees or a little more. Have at least some rubber gloves. Might need 19mm wrench or just the rubber gloves to spin off the fill pug. Everything is hot now, but you are not up against the exhaust. Verify fluid is between 4 and 3 (see above). Good to go!
Hope that helps.
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